Hello, I have an amp installed but can not get it to come out of power protect mode. All wiring and fuses have been checked. I have disconnected all RCA and speaker wires and put a multimeter accross the ground / power (14.4 result) and accross the ground / rem (14.25 result) Does this mean that the amp is blown or is there any thing else that I should try?
Is there any way that i can check the quality of the grounding? The length of cable is less than 2 feet, The surfaces are clear of any paint as far as i can see. I have grounded it to the blot that anchors the seat belt to the car at the base of the door pillar.Is there any way that i can check the quality of the grounding? The length of cable is less than 2 feet, The surfaces are clear of any paint as far as i can see. I have grounded it to the blot that anchors the seat belt to the car at the base of the door pillar.
It sounds like the amp has failed. If it's going into protect mode, it likely has shorted output transistors. Let me know if you have any other questions. [email protected]It sounds like the amp has failed. If it's going into protect mode, it likely has shorted output transistors. Let me know if you have any other questions. [email protected]
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Disconnect all speaker connections and rca cables. Leave power, ground and remote wires intact. Try turning on again. If you still have a protection light your amp is faulty. . Double check all connections. Good luck.
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The amp does not go on protection only because of wiring or power source problem , but also and mainly when there is an internal fault.
Protection is started whenever an out-of range voltage value is detected from the controller circuit.
Protection can be triggered from a burnt final IC or from a speaker wiring problem.
Since you have ruled out speake, wiring and power source problems, then this Amp is probably defective
If the Amp works fine on a different vehicle, then protection mode may start either because speakers impedance is not within Amp specs, or because the amp has a too big power draw. In this last case the problem is fixed installing a capacitor on the Amp 12V line.
Protection Circuit is bad. It needs to be serviced. If all speaker wires are disconnected and it's still in protection, it's got a problem. Hope this helps
It sounds like power is shorting out or the amp is defective. With the fuse removed, use a multimeter set to ohms and check between the power terminal to ground.
The protection light will normally come on if the amp overheats (for example when running with too low impedance), or if the speakers are shorted.
I've got a pair of these MTX's subs powered from a Fusion 450 watt 2-channel amp. For the price, they are great. By the way, they are 4-ohm.
My first suspicion would be that something in the first incorrect wiring damaged either the amp or the subs. Can you explain specifically what the "installing the subs incorrectly" means? Was the amp output shorted out at any time or was it operated without a load? Either of these conditions will fry an amp and sometimes, the protection circuitry doesn't work either.
First make sure that your amp is still working. Check both the primary power fuse, usually located near the vehicle battery, and the fuses on both sides of the amp. Make sure that when you turn the system on, the power light comes on steady (blinking is protection mode). Test your subs one at a time on a speaker output.
Sounds like there could be a short somewhere. Check to make sure that there aren't any (exposed/bare) wires touching each other or if there is a bare spot of wire touching something metal. Check both ends of all the wires. A speaker wire may have come lose and is shorting out against the frame or some other place. Usually if it goes straight into protection mode or you're popping fuses you have a short somewhere. I assume the capacitor you installed is somewhere on the power line, which would be for helping with noise. You can also try disconnecting your amp from your stereo and see what happens but leave the speakers connected, you don't want to run the amp with out a load on it (the speakers). If your amp doesn't go into protection mode when the stereo is disconnected, then you have a problem with the stereo and not the amp, assuming you already checked for any possible shorts first.
Disconnect all speaker wires and signal cables from the amp. If it powers up normally (doesn't go into protection), the wiring needs to be checked. If it still shuts down, the amp likely has blown output transistors.
The red light means the amp is in protection mode. A few things can cause protection mode.....
First disconnect the subs completely from the amp, and turn it on, if it powers up you have blown subs.
Also try checking the main power wire at the battery...sometimes the current your meter is seeing is backfeeding from the remote wire, so your main power line could be blown at the fuse under the hood.
hope this helps
No, this amp is not a heavy power consumer- matter of fact it takes very little power to run.Maybe you should check the fuses on the amp to see if they are what is recommended.Also check your fuse kit to your amp- your fuse might not be big enough.If neither works take it back where u got it.
Is there any way that i can check the quality of the grounding? The length of cable is less than 2 feet, The surfaces are clear of any paint as far as i can see. I have grounded it to the blot that anchors the seat belt to the car at the base of the door pillar.
It sounds like the amp has failed. If it's going into protect mode, it likely has shorted output transistors. Let me know if you have any other questions. [email protected]
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