What voltage does the 4.3 whirlpool dryer use?

Check your thermal fuse and the thermal cut-out fuse, two different fuses that can cause a dryer to run and not heat when open, or some dryers will not start when one of these has gotten too hot and opened....Usually caused by venting restriction of too much lint, common problem...........

A open operating thermostat or the high limit being open are also possible........;.

The other checks are live voltage checks, timer contacts, wiring, temp and internal motor switch......schematic is probably in back of control panel........
Takes some reading of a wiring diagram, understanding how to split the circuit ............Not for beginners.............Hope this helps...........do not forget to unplug dryer when doing anything on unit besides live voltage checks on circuits,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Hi,
Here is a tip that will help you with changing your dryer plug. Dryer Cord and Wiring Dryer 3 Wire or 4 Wire



heatman101

The reason for the 4-wire plug/socket system is that in the older 3-wire units, cabinet 'ground' was actually 'neutral' carrying current for the 115 volt parts of the dryer, while the two 'hots' were supplying 230 volt power for the heater and motor. This allowed a voltage difference between the dryer cabinet and true ground. How did you wire 3-wires (coming from the apartment electrical panel) into the 4-wire dryer socket? Dryer cabinet ground should go to true ground at the electrical panel, and dryer neutral should go to electrical panel neutral. Did Whirlpool violate the separation of 'neutral' and 'ground' when the machine was made (did the timer neutral connection go to cabinet ground instead of machine neutral or is the timer motor stuck)? Your dilemma would be answered by having the apartment owner hire a licensed electrician to upgrade the dryer service to 4-wire specifications. The ground to neutral connection you mentioned may make it work, but you will wind up with the 'hot' cabinet condition that the 4-wire setup was supposed to alleviate. Hope some of this helps!

Sure there is. The cheapest I have found is on amazon. click here Dryer Heating Element 279838 For Whirlpool Kenmore and take a look. I hope this was helpful. cheers

If the dryer runs but doesn’t heat, don’t even think it’s the thermal fuse. If the thermal fuse was the problem, the dryer wouldn’t run at all.
First thing to do is verify your source voltage for the dryer; for those of you in Manhattan, this means to use your multi-meter to measure the voltage at the dryer outlet to make sure you have 240v. Y’see, Slick, the dryer motor only needs 120v supplied by one of the lines to run. But the heating elements, on the other hand, need 240v supplied by both lines to get hot.
If the source voltage is ok, then the most likely bad parts are listed below. As always, you should use your meter and the tech sheet supplied with your dryer (and cleverly hidden inside the control panel) to verify:
1. Even Heat Board
2. Heater Relay
3. Thermostat
4. Sensor

PF means "power failure". This could be caused by an actual power failure, a loose conection, low voltage, or even a bad board. If you have not had a power outage, check the power cord in the recepticle to make sure it's secure. Voltage at the outlet should be 120VAC +/- 10%. If the voltage drops below 108VAC, it can cause you PF display.

Have you checked the voltage at the receptacle it is plugged into. It should be 220/240 . A dryer will run on 110/120 but it needs 220/240 to heat. If the voltage is coorect, I would look at the heating element

The voltage difference can be overcome. The problem will be the difference in frequency 50hz vs 60hz. The motors would have to be replaced with motors designed to operate at 50hz. The electronics would most likely need to be replace as well.

Best bet would be to contact whirlpool international to see if the offer a conversion kit/package.

did you replace both fuses? there are 2 thirty amp fuses both are needed . if you can check voltage to the outlet that will eliminate an electrical problem and narrow it down to the dryer. If you have voltage to the dryer outlet, then I would look at the connections at the terminal block(where the cord connects to the dryer) then a meter would be needed to do much more testing.

shelly makee sure both your electric breakers are on turn tham off then back on ck if you know how to ck 4 your 440 voltage if voltage is good the problem will be the heater element ck it are the thermo fuse eather one i founf thermo fuse more common problem