My carrier control box in the closet has a red light at the D-18 connection. And on that heat pump, I currently have only the cooling cycle. The heat cycle will not operate. Is there a connection with the D-18 error?
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Power off at the isolator for 10 mins then switch back on and try again. If error code persists, then it is most likely the controller in the outdoor unit.
Excessive voltage of DC voltage on PFC circuit in inverter PCB is detected, or the excessive current in the circuit is detected.
> Permanent stop.
Controller PCB defective (Refer to after mentioned "PFC circuit diagnosis")
you likely have a "two stage" system, but not a two stage heat pump. the first stage is probably the heat pump itself, and the second stage is the auxilliary resistance heat that suppliments the heat pump at lower temps. if i knew the terminals that are available on the new stat, i could advise you on the proper wiring.
Ok first thing is it sounds like a wiring problem. So first step is to make sure the thermostat is properly connected. Which... the main thing here is there needs to be 24v dc power coming from your control board (transformer) going to the thermostat..generally that is the red wire. All the thermostat does is connect that "red" wire (power) to one of the other wires to complete a circuit. So make sure you have 24 volts... (generally about .5amps) . if you have power than switch thermostat to fan only should energize the green wire only. then switch to ac and move temp low enough that the ac should turn on and that should energize the yellow wire. for sure one of those wires is incorrect now or the fan wouldn't be on OR THE THERMOSTAT IS NOT CONNECTING THEM AND IT IS BAD. Now about the compressor and fan.... those same wires run out to the compressor unit... ok the yellow for ac.. greeen does not go to compressor unit that is for fan only (vent).. red carries the same 24 volts... one difference here is that most carrier units only have the one transformer....so you run the red wire is the +pos 24 volt..and then a "common " wire is needed which is the Ground or neg... that wire on a carrier is brown usually but could be different depending installer. The orange wire goes to the pump reversing valve it is always energized when on ac mode...when heater is on in the winter it is heat pump and is not energized so just connect the orange and yellow together... tell me more specifics if this doesn't help and i'm sure I can help you... thanks Chuck
That blinking light may be the diagnostic light. Count the blinks next time it fails. Carrier units will have two different blinks depicting the error code such as one blink followed by a pause than 3 blinks giving you an error code of 13. Then look at the wiring diagram, it will have an error code chart telling you where to start with your diagnosis. You already know that if you remove the cover it erases the error code, so look thru the small window first.
you need to go oside and look for a red reset button on the unit. you tripped the high ressure switch when you let your filter get that dirty. go check on this and when your done if it still is not working then ask me more.
JUMPER STAYS BETWEEN RC AND RH SO YOU HAVE INCOMING POWER FOR BOTH COOLING AND HEATING. THE WHITE WIRE YOU SAID C IS COMMON AND SHOULD BE USED IF POSSIBLE TO COMMON TERMINAL ON NEW STAT . IF THERE IS NO COMMON, THEN CAP IT BUT YOU'LL BE CHANGING BATTERIES EVERY FEW YEARS. I LIKE THE STATS WITH A COMMON POWERED OFF THE TRANSFORMER BUT YOURS MAY NOT HAVE A COMMON. THE GREY WIRE CONNECTED TO THE E TERMINAL IS FOR EMERGENCY HEAT. IT KILLS POWER TO THE HEAT PUMP, HEATS THE HOUSE ON IMMEDIATE CALL FOR HEAT WITH JUST THE INDOOR BLOWER AND THE INDOOR HEAT STRIPS. THIS PREVENTS ANY DAMAGE OR INCREASED DAMAGE TO THE COMPRESSOR IF YOU SUSPECT A PROBLEM.YOU SHOULD HAVE A TERMINAL ON THE NEW STAT THAT IS MARKED E OR PERHAPS X2 OR W3. THAT IS WHERE THE GEY WIRE GOES. IT IS POSSIBLE THE WIRE CONNECTED TO W DOES THE SAME THING AND YOU CAN GET BY WITHOUT THE GREY WIRE CONNECTED.ALSO SELECT SINGLE STAGE HEAT PUMP. SINGLE STAGE COOLING AND TWO STAGE HEAT . FIRST STAGE HEAT IS YOUR HEAT PUMP AND SECOND STAGE IS YOU STRIPS.
fuse is usually a small resetable breaker on the side of the transformer, or a traditional screwin fuse with a plastic cap on one end that is a specialty fuse and is available at most motor shops or elec supply houses. or its a auto type plug in fuse on the circuit board usually 5 amps or three amps. first turn the fan switch on the stat from auto to on. does fan run? if it does you have high and low voltage and your wired wrong. if it is in the stat you are usually looking at red connects to red . yellow to yellow, green to green , orange to orange, white usually to white, that leaves a common power wire to operate the stat, usually connected to the common term on the new stat . this can be any color and is necessary for the new stat to think and work, if it has batteries it will have a display but it needs a red and a common to think and work. this wire can be any color and if your old stat had no common which a lot didnt then youll have to add one. carrier also has a emergency heat strip wire sometimes labeled x2 etc. you can usually jump white over to x2 to perform function if needed. good luck.
24VAC Heat/Cool Single-Stage Heat Pump
A common heat pump system has the following wiring & connections:
Call For Auxiliary Heat
Force Fan On
Y or Y1
C/O or O