A) Who are your reply comments to?
Post the user names they go by.
B) LEAVE BIOS ALONE!!
Diagnose FULLY before you attempt it.
Someone refers you to upgrade your BIOS program, right off the bat; suggest you S-T-O-P!.
1) You missed important parts of a diagnostic flowchart,
2) You make O-N-E mistake in upgrading BIOS, and you can use your motherboard for a Frisbee.
A note before I go on............
IF, the power goes out when upgrading,....THAT'S IT FOLKS!
IF, you did not save a copy of the original BIOS, when asked and when upgrading; and do not know how to flash BIOS from a floppy drive, toss your motherboard in the trash.
IF, you did not save a copy of the original BIOS, when asked; and the BIOS upgrade you use is INCOMPATIBLE; toss the motherboard in the trash.
(Unless you know how to flash from a floppy drive)
Yes. After the motherboard is put on the market, the BIOS program
will have an upgrade; about two weeks later.
Logic would dictate upgrading BIOS, then.
However if the BIOS program is working OK, Leave it alone.
Follows the old adage, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."
The internet is filled with statements, that someone attempted upgrading their BIOS program; only to turn their motherboard into an expensive paperweight.
C) Why do you hope the OnBoard (Integrated) graphics are not turned off?
Just go into BIOS Setup, and ENABLE it.
D) A Monitor is NOT a plug and play item.
DO NOT plug in, or unplug when the computer is on.
E) With JUST the Processor, Ram Memory, and processor fan plugged into power; you should be able to bring the BIOS Setup screen, up.
1) The Harddrive data cable to motherboard is Unplugged from motherboard.
So is the power cable to it.
2) The optical drive (CD/DVD drive) data cable, is unplugged FROM motherboard.
So is the power cable to it
3) NO card reader cables hooked to motherboard.
4) No Front Panel USB cables, hooked to motherboard.
(The front of your computer is the Front Panel)
5) Computer case fans are unplugged.
Except Processor, processor fan wires hooked to motherboard, and Ram Memory.
(As soon as BIOS Setup is pulled up, use the ESC key.
The computer will now restart. Press the Power On button in, and hold it in. This will turn the computer off.
You don't want to linger in BIOS Setup too long, without having the computer case fans hooked up.
Don't want to overheat the Northbridge chip.
This is just a fast test )
F) Could be someone you received the motherboard from, did NOT know about Anti-Static Procedures.
Or perhaps yourself.
Didn't FOLLOW them?
Use the motherboard for a conversation piece.
(Or Frisbee, or toss in the trash)
G) The FIRST thing to check when dealing with a desktop computer, that isn't working; is to check the Power Supply.
Have to know the computer is getting power, AND the correct voltages; BEFORE going on.
(Besides the obvious, to see if the computer is dirty inside)
Otherwise it would be akin to trying to start a car, and finding out the battery is no good.
A Power Supply with a weak voltage power rail, will have enough power to light those simpy LED's, and maybe spins fans.
Will NOT however, have enough power to turn the PROCESSOR on.
Lot's of motherboards are tossed in the trash, because the user did not diagnose correctly, and Assumed the problem was the motherboard.
1) If ALL the LED's were lit up at once, they would use less than 1 Watt of power.
2) EACH fan uses 2 to 3 Watts of power.
3) A typical Processor can use 51 to 125 Watts of power.
Just depends on what Processor it is.
There are 3 main power rails;
A) 3.3 Volts
B) 5 Volts
C) 12 Volts
ALL are DC Voltage
ALL Black wires are Ground ( - ) wires.
[ In comparison two D cell flashlight batteries produce 3 Volts DC.
The dangerous high AC voltage from your home, or business; (100 to 240 volts, depending on country), is converted into the 3 low DC Voltages stated above.
The dangerous AC voltage is contained; WITHIN the metal case of the Power Supply ]
Use a multimeter set to DC Voltage. An economical model cost averages about $5 to $12.
Auto parts stores carry them. (More expensive though, usually)
I have seen them on checkout aisle racks, in major discount stores.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Computer_power_supply#Wiring_diagrams
You are dealing with a DC circuit.
There is a Positive, and a Negative.
Negative is Ground.
Positive wires are the 3 main voltage power rails, stated above.
ALL Black wires are Ground wires.
To expound further;
ALL Orange wires are 3.3 Volts
ALL Red wires are 5 Volts
ALL Yellow wires are 12 Volts.
Positive (Red) probe lead of multimeter, goes TO power wire.
(3.3 Volts, or 5 Volts, or 12 Volts)
Negative (Black) wire goes to ANY Black wire.
ALL Black wires are Ground wires.
Need guidance in testing the 3 main voltage power rails, post back in a Comment.
Use a KNOWN to be good, Compatible power supply; for a test unit.
That means you can borrow one from a WORKING computer, IF it is compatible; for a temporary test unit.
Find the Power Supply is the problem? Replace.
Then reinstall the test Power Supply back into it's working computer.
Voltage power rails check to be good?
Then Processor, processor fan, and Ram Memory.
See if you can bring BIOS Setup, up.
If no, the motherboard is bad.
Probably Static shocked, somewhere along the way.
BIOS Setup comes up?
Then reinstall harddrive. Check again.
For additional questions please post in a Comment.