I'm in need of Intermatic WG780-12D timer motor, but it's no longer available. Are there substitute motors from another company that will work in the C8835?

SOURCE: my rain tight intermatic outdoor timer no longer switches contact

the way the message reads the timer was working and then quit. most likely the contacts or clock motor has wore out. but by u sayiing u can't get power manually i would say the contacts or relay that switches the load is bad.

i would try to buy a timer that was the same and put the guts in the old box if its alot of trouble to change out.

one other thing u can check, is the timer getting its operating power from the circuit or is the something else controlling the timer. if there is something else controlling the timer, i would check that to see if i had power there.

John Prohaska

• 1378 Answers
• Posted on Oct 30, 2009

SOURCE: i installed a new pump, motor and timer, but the

Be sure you are actually one the L1 and L2 posts and/or screws. On some of the motors there is a third quick connect tab that is not used when set for 230V lines but if you connect one of your incoming line leads to it the motor wont work. If that is not the case, be sure you have a resistance reading somewhere close to 1 ohm across the L1 & L2 terminals. If you get infinite, there is a problem with the motor. I assume the motor is completely silent when you turn on the switch? If not and it is humming but not starting, have the capacitor checked and if necessary, the motor start switch and winding.

SOURCE: My timer won't cycle the motor on and off.

you may need trippers

SOURCE: Intermatic T104P. My timer was working fine until

Try manually switching the switch, via the lever. Sometimes the switch does not fully go to the off position and the timer clips miss catching it.

Testimonial: "Thanks, it's seems to be working now."

SOURCE: C8835 Intermatic Timer, 30 Minute

Intermatic C8835 is 120Volt 30-minute cycle timer, which repeats same timing cycle every 30 minutes.
Timer has NO and NC terminals.
You will not use the NC normally closed terminal for this application, so no wire will connect to far left NC screw.

Jodie,
Green wire on green screw is correct, so you have started off well.
Bare copper wire also connects to green screw, so no more talk is needed about ground wires.

If you are using 240V or 277V, then add a comment and we'll lay out a plan for that wiring.
Wiring below is for 120V only.

You have 2 120Volt cables.
1) One cable comes from circuit breaker and has 1 black and 1 white wire.
The black 'line' wire connects to 'switch common' terminal, which is 3rd screw from left.
The white 'neutral' wire connects to 'clock' terminal, which is 4th screw from left.

2) The second cable goes to coal stoker, and has 1 black and 1 white wire.
The black wire connects to Normally Open or NO terminal which is 2nd screw from left.
The white wire connects to Clock terminal, which is 4th screw from left.

Notice that both white wires connect to same screw.

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