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Jerry Williams
Jerry Williams Posted on Mar 20, 2019
Answered by a Fixya Expert

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Maytag gas dryer drum will not spin until timer is moved to cool down position

Possible heater element bad or vent clogged

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1 Answer

arucano

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  • Expert 147 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 09, 2019
arucano
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Joined: Oct 19, 2009
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The problem is likely the timer contact failure

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 619 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 02, 2008

SOURCE: maytag gas dryer

the glow plug sensor not accurate send to timer /replace sensor

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Anonymous

  • 5 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 20, 2008

SOURCE: Maytag gas dryer makes squeeking noise

it is more likely one of the drum rollers

TheMobilian

Dan Webster

  • 8221 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 20, 2009

SOURCE: Roper Electric Dryer Heats but drum won't spin

Yank the filter out the top. Remove the 2 screws in the filter housing. Use a putty knife to pop the top and then remove the screws holding the front on. NOTE: raise up on the front panel slightly so you won't damage the bottom clips. Get the front out yer way and remove the drum. Clean out the dryer and oil the rollers and idler. Use this handy ROUTING GUIDE to see how to put the belt back.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

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Anonymous

  • 3361 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 03, 2009

SOURCE: Our Maytag dryer runs, but the drum is not moving.

Check your blower wheel for a lint buildup or other obstruction.
Remove the front panel to access the blower wheel.

Anonymous

  • 8619 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 22, 2009

SOURCE: Dryer will run in cool down mode,but not in any other.

Hi!

Please check the following---

Power from the house
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.
Heating element
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.
Thermal fuse
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)

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Wiring
A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

Please accept this solution and ask for any clarification.

Thanks
Rylee

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Related Questions:

1helpful
1answer

Dryer Timer doesn't move in Easy Care Mode
do you have heat?does it stay hot while in coll down?if so your heating element is grounded,open the door,look up and remove the two screws holding the top panel in place,pick top panel up just a little and move it to the left that should remove the top panel, put it on cool down or no heat and run it,if the heat stays on this is your problem the element is sagging and touching the metal cover around the element,the way the timer works is on timed dry it counts down like a clock until it turns off when on more or less or auto same thing the dryer starts,the heat comes on and when it hits temp. the heat shuts off when the heat is off the timer will advance to off when the heat starts again the timer stops,if the element isn't grounded then you still could have a bad element there are two elements in your dryer if one is broke the timer won't advance or some have only one element so if the timer doesn't advance you probably have no heat or a bad cycling thermostat or a bad sensor up front where the lint filter is.you'll have to check them with a meter.first thing to check is the heater located behind the drum.
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Jan 15, 2018 • GE Dryers
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The timer on my whirlpool electrical dryer LER5636JQ0 doesn't move and there's no heat but drum spins
Sounds like a bad timer
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Jun 09, 2014 • Whirlpool Dryers
0helpful
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Not catching lint or drying clothes
Hi Diane

Sounds like you have a clogged vent
If your dryer seems to run forever, it could be because of a clogged vent or internal ductwork. Your dryer may have an automatic cycle that turns off the dryer when the clothes are dry. It does this with a special thermostat or moisture-sensing system.
Normally, this is what happens during an automatic cycle:
The thermostat tells the dryer to heat until the interior of the dryer reaches a pre-set temperature--say 135 degrees.
When the dryer reaches the pre-set temperature, the thermostat tells the timer to begin advancing. (If there's a moisture sensor, the timer advances only if the moisture content of the clothing is low enough.)
The timer advances until the interior cools, then the thermostat tells the timer to stop advancing, and tells the dryer to start heating again.
This cycle continues until the clothes are dry. But...if the vent is clogged, the dryer may never reach the proper operating temperature, so it doesn't send the signal to the timer and the dryer continues to run indefinitely, even if the clothes are completely dry. To fix the problem, clean the vent and/or internal ductwork.
Heating Element
Your dryer's heating element may be partially burned out. If it is, your dryer still heats, but at such a low temperature that it takes three or four times as long to dry the clothes. If the element is partially burned out, replace the heating element. You can check for an ohm reading but will need to refer to the service manual for proper reading. This sometimes on the tech sheet located somewhere on the dryer. Usually between 9-13 ohms.
Cycling thermostat
Although this isn't a common problem, one of the thermostats that controls the temperature in your dryer may break and cause the dryer to heat poorly. If so, you need to replace it. The thermostat is usually a small, round, black device mounted to an oblong steel plate. The plate is mounted to the internal ductwork . This thermostat usually has four wires going to it. Check the 2 terminals that are opposite each other and are the closer together of the 2. These 2 terminals should have continuity. If not replace the thermostat.
Bud
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Oct 12, 2013 • Maytag Dryers
1helpful
1answer

I have a whirlpool LEC6646aq2. Noticed a burning smell inside drum.The dryer baffle inside the drum was completely melted. The timer was stuck on 20 minutes and the heating element was full on . The...
it sounds like one of the coils on the heating element could be touching metal and grounding out constantly running until you shut it down manually,when the heater is on the timer doesn't move until the heat shuts off,then the timer advances,when the machine calls for heat again the timer stops and the heat comes back on,it does this until the timer reaches zero but in your case the heater isn't shutting down and is keeping the timer from advancing.the filter is on the top of your dryer so unplug it,pull it out remove the ventline from the back of the dryer and remove the back panel,you'll see the heating element on the right side,also with a meter check the thermostats on the heater box,when checking any part at least one wire has to be diconnected or you won't get a correct reading,check for continuity on all the parts on the heater box,when the dryer is running correctly say you have a blocked vent line,when the dryer starts running hotter than normal the thermal fuse or the high limit thermostat will pop,the thermal fuse is the white piece to the right of the lint filter duct and the hgh limit is the top thermostat on the heater box,but with the element grounding out nothing will shut it down until you manually cut the power by moving the timer to off,if it melted the baffle you could have damaged other parts like the motor,check the rear end of the drum and see if there's like yellow on it or lint stuck to it where it touches the back wall,if there is then the oil from the motor sprayed out and the motor could last for a week or 5 years but the overheating most likely damaged it,if the dryer is old you might want to think of buying a new dryer instead of repairing it and then you have problems with something else like the motor or changing out thermostats in a month or two but you have to make that call,good luck and let me know what you find
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Oct 30, 2010 • Whirlpool Dryers
1helpful
1answer

My kenmore electric dryer doesn't heat. Blows cool air
It could be the heating element, a safety limit, a control problem, or an electrical problem. A heating coil is used to warm the clothes as they get tossed gently inside the drum. A blower mounted on the motor pulls air through the heating element into the drum and out the exhaust. The element gets old and briitle with use and eventually needs replacement. That is what you check first. On gas dryers vibration and age will cause the igniter to crumble and fail. If it turns out the element is fine then one of the safety's might be blown. These safety's are set to a certain temperature
for the dryer to operate safely. The drum temp control for cotton is 160f. A limit on the heater housing is 250f. If it fails another smaller limit is mounted nearby that blows at 300f. If that temp exceeds 350f a duct fuse mounted on the blower housing opens and kills most dryers. On gas dryers the duct fuse will kill the gas assembly but the dryer will still run. If all of those safetys are good the timer could be the problem. The timer has a terminal on it that runs down to the heating element. If you suspect it is bad you can check it with a meter. That leg of the timer should have continuity with other terminals on the timer at different spots on the timer. Turning the timer and checking for continuity will give a clue. If you cannot get continuity with any other terminal on the timer at any position on the dial then you have a burned contact in the timer. If that turns out to be good, you would need to inspect the electrical outlet for proper power to the machine. On American models the motor runs on 120 volts but the heating element must have 240 volts. If you have more questions just post a comment. Good luck on repairing your machine. I have some repair photos: HERE

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

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Feb 17, 2010 • Kenmore 73952 Gas Dryer
1helpful
1answer

My dry blow out cool air model ler4600pq
It could be the heating element, a safety limit, a control problem, or an electrical problem. A heating coil is used to warm the clothes as they get tossed gently inside the drum. A blower mounted on the motor pulls air through the heating element into the drum and out the exhaust. The element gets old and briitle with use and eventually needs replacement. That is what you check first. On gas dryers vibration and age will cause the igniter to crumble and fail. If it turns out the element is fine then one of the safety's might be blown. These safety's are set to a certain temperature
for the dryer to operate safely. The drum temp control for cotton is 160f. A limit on the heater housing is 250f. If it fails another smaller limit is mounted nearby that blows at 300f. If that temp exceeds 350f a duct fuse mounted on the blower housing opens and kills most dryers. On gas dryers the duct fuse will kill the gas assembly but the dryer will still run. If all of those safetys are good the timer could be the problem. The timer has a terminal on it that runs down to the heating element. If you suspect it is bad you can check it with a meter. That leg of the timer should have continuity with other terminals on the timer at different spots on the timer. Turning the timer and checking for continuity will give a clue. If you cannot get continuity with any other terminal on the timer at any position on the dial then you have a burned contact in the timer. If that turns out to be good, you would need to inspect the electrical outlet for proper power to the machine. On American models the motor runs on 120 volts but the heating element must have 240 volts. If you have more questions just post a comment. Good luck on repairing your machine. I have some repair photos: HERE
Remove and clean the venting to outside then get the rear cover off and check for continuity to the heater element and safetys.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Read full answer
Jan 30, 2010 • Dryers
0helpful
1answer

Dryer is not producing hot air
It could be the heating element, a safety limit, a control problem, or an electrical problem. A heating coil is used to warm the clothes as they get tossed gently inside the drum. A blower mounted on the motor pulls air through the heating element into the drum and out the exhaust. The element gets old and briitle with use and eventually needs replacement. That is what you check first. On gas dryers vibration and age will cause the igniter to crumble and fail. If it turns out the element is fine then one of the safety's might be blown. These safety's are set to a certain temperature
for the dryer to operate safely. The drum temp control for cotton is 160f. A limit on the heater housing is 250f. If it fails another smaller limit is mounted nearby that blows at 300f. If that temp exceeds 350f a duct fuse mounted on the blower housing opens and kills most dryers. On gas dryers the duct fuse will kill the gas assembly but the dryer will still run. If all of those safetys are good the timer could be the problem. The timer has a terminal on it that runs down to the heating element. If you suspect it is bad you can check it with a meter. That leg of the timer should have continuity with other terminals on the timer at different spots on the timer. Turning the timer and checking for continuity will give a clue. If you cannot get continuity with any other terminal on the timer at any position on the dial then you have a burned contact in the timer. If that turns out to be good, you would need to inspect the electrical outlet for proper power to the machine. On American models the motor runs on 120 volts but the heating element must have 240 volts. If you have more questions just post a comment. Good luck on repairing your machine. I have some repair photos: HERE

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Read full answer
Jan 23, 2010 • Maytag Dryers
4helpful
1answer

We have REX4634KQ1 that stopped working in mid cycle and will not restart-- I had dried about six loads prior to this happening. checked the vent chute and it was not clogged.
It could be the heating element, a safety limit, a control problem, or an electrical problem. A heating coil is used to warm the clothes as they get tossed gently inside the drum. A blower mounted on the motor pulls air through the heating element into the drum and out the exhaust. The element gets old and briitle with use and eventually needs replacement. That is what you check first. If it turns out the element is fine then one of the safety's might be blown. These safety's are set to a certain temperature
for the dryer to operate safely. The drum temp control for cotton is 160f. A limit on the heater housing is 250f. If it fails another smaller limit is mounted nearby that blows at 300f. If that temp exceeds 350f a duct fuse mounted on the blower housing opens and kills most dryers. On gas dryers the duct fuse will kill the gas assembly but the dryer will still run. If all of those safetys are good the timer could be the problem. The timer has a terminal on it that runs down to the heating element. If you suspect it is bad you can check it with a meter. That leg of the timer should have continuity with other terminals on the timer at different spots on the timer. Turning the timer and checking for continuity will give a clue. If you cannot get continuity with any other terminal on the timer at any position on the dial then you have a burned contact in the timer. If that turns out to be good, you would need to inspect the electrical outlet for proper power to the machine. On American models the motor runs on 120 volts but the heating element must have 240 volts. If you have more questions just post a comment. Good luck on repairing your machine. I have some repair photos: HERE

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Read full answer
Jan 08, 2010 • Roper REX4634KQ Electric Dryer
1helpful
1answer

Maytag dryer not blowing hot air (2yrs old)
If the vent is blocked, it will not stop the heat, it will only restrict the air flow.

Generally a couple of things can cause the heat to stop.
Either the thermostat or the element.
I would first suggest the element.
It may be fatigued therefore the internal wire within the element becomes fragile and eventually breaks down. Although it is an electrical item, it is mechanically built and can fail.

In some dryers the element is held in clips.
These clips can cut into the element.

The thermostat maintains temeperature but again, it is mechanically built and can also break down.

If you are not capable of inspecting or troubleshooting the internals of the dryer (i.e remove the cover and look for the failurer), then have it inspected by a repairman. There is not too much that can go wrong with a dryer. The most expensive part wuld be the motor that spins the drum.

Read full answer
Sep 16, 2008 • Dryers
0helpful
2answers

Dryer doesn't get hot or turn off.
yes very possible timer but my guess on the times i seen the problem would be the heating element are the thermo fuse on the elemnt canister when the heater does not come on the timer will not move ck the heater and the fuses on the heater canister it will fix your problem
Read full answer
Feb 28, 2008 • Whirlpool LER4600 Electric Dryer
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