Question about DCS RGS-305 Professional Gas Kitchen Range

2 Answers

No gas ignition in oven only

My gas oven is electric ignition,no gas no ignite.Could this be the safety valve?

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  • msladyd Jan 17, 2008

    My oven it will glow but it take along time to light.Then I will start smelling gas so I shut it off.

  • artm439 May 11, 2010

    I have the same problem. At least with the oven and broiler not igniting.
    I checked the current on the broiler. 3.77 amps
    I checked the current on the oven 2.74 amps. I replace this igniter.
    current level 3.4 on oven.

    I suspect the Dual gas valve. Where is it located? and what is the part number. The stove is a DCS 304.

    Art


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No. the ignitor is bad. you might see it glow but when it get weak it cant pull the proper amount of amps across the safty valve to alow it to open. replace the ignitor. once youve replaced it it will take alittle longer to light the first time but thats normal

Posted on Nov 27, 2007

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Would I need to replace the igniter or another park if I have these problems:
1. My GFCI outlet will break each time I try to use my BAKE/BROIL/ROAST START button
2. By connecting to non-GFCI outlet:
2.1. My igniter clicks but no gas is entering my oven
2.2 No gas smell in oven but do have gas to my burners on top

Any idea(s) why I would not be getting gas to my oven and why my GFCI outlet would trip?

Posted on Oct 22, 2008

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The oven burner igniter
commonly known as the hot surface igniter is used in modern gas oven burners to open the gas valve and to ignite the gas. As the igniter draws electric current it will heat to a high temperature and glow, as well as cause the bi-metal in the oven safety valve to warp and open the valve releasing the gas to be ignited. This sequence normally takes about a minute. Igniters come in both flat and round styles and are very fragile. If the burner does not light then you should check the igniter first. If the igniter does not glow at all, then check for power to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If power is present then the igniter may be open circuit and can be checked for continuity with a multi-meter. If the igniter is glowing, but the burner is not lighting, the igniter may be weak and still be at fault because it requires a certain amount of current draw to open the valve. This check requires the use of an amp meter and should be performed by a qualified person. If the igniter is defective then it must be replaced.
: rememberI offer free advice bcuz God is so good!

The oven safety valve
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(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.

The oven burner igniter
commonly known as the hot surface igniter is used in modern gas oven burners to open the gas valve and to ignite the gas. As the igniter draws electric current it will heat to a high temperature and glow, as well as cause the bi-metal in the oven safety valve to warp and open the valve releasing the gas to be ignited. This sequence normally takes about a minute. Igniters come in both flat and round styles and are very fragile. If the burner does not light then you should check the igniter first. If the igniter does not glow at all, then check for power to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If power is present then the igniter may be open circuit and can be checked for continuity with a multi-meter. If the igniter is glowing, but the burner is not lighting, the igniter may be weak and still be at fault because it requires a certain amount of current draw to open the valve. This check requires the use of an amp meter and should be performed by a qualified person. If the igniter is defective then it must be replaced.


The oven safety valve
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http://www.partselect.com/Repair/Range-Stove-Oven/Will-Not-Start/


http://www.partselect.com/Repair/Range-Stove-Oven/Will-Not-Start

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IGNITER GLOWS BUT NO GAS GETS TO THE BURNER. WHILE IGNITER IS GLOWING, THERE IS NO VOLTAGE ACCROSS SAFETY VALVE TERMINALS. SAFETY VALVE RESISTANCE IS 2.2 OHMS. NEW IGNITER MAKES NO DIFFERENCE. Model:...


Hello John,
Having replaced the ignitor and the gas valve having continuity the problem has be the gas safety valve bimetal is stuck. The only thing you check is amprage draw on ignitor it should be between 3.2-3.6 (as label on gas valve states) with a new ignitor and again continuty on gas valve its the gas valve its stuck and wont open.

Good luck,
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1 Answer

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If the bake igniter glows red and not bright yellow or white, it is probably because it is too weak. When this happens, the safety valve would not let the gas out into the oven burner. A weak igniter must be replaced.

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The technical jargon is,.....:
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New gas valve, new gas smell


CG, unfortunately you replaced the wrong part. The problem with your oven is the igniter. The igniter is wired in series with a safety valve. The safety valve monitors the amount of electrical current flowing through the igniter when you ask it to "bake".  When the igniter gets "weak" it won't allow current to flow through it properly, this will keep the oven from heating. It will also cause your symptoms as well...

Here's the scenario; Say your safety valve is "looking" for 2.5 amps of electricity flowing through it before it'll open up and allow gas to the manifold. Your igniter is designed to allow 2.8-3.2 amps to flow in good operating condition, but your igniter has become "weak"... it's now allowing 2.48-2.51 amps. The safety valve is sensing this and opening and closing rapidly, allowing gas to flow through it (fluttering). BUT! the igniter is not hot enough to ignite the gas and/or there is not enough gas to ignite do to the fluttering effect of the valve. Sometimes it'll light sometimes it won't.

Your igniter is the cause and needs to be replaced.

Before you begin the repair, you should have the new part on hand. The part number is WB2X9154 and can be purchased at your local appliance parts retailer for about $50.00. Here's one online for $65.00.

First, UNPLUG YOUR OVEN!

To replace it... Remove the racks and lower panel (oven floor). This will expose the burner manifold where the igniter is mounted.  (It's the round thing on the manifold near the back... it has 2 wires going into it.) You'll need a 1/4" socket or nut driver to remove it.

(*TIP---> before removing the screws from the igniter, put a few drops of liquid dish soap on the threads to lubricate them. If you do this, you will not strip the threads of the screws and it will ease their removal.)

The new igniter kit will have two ceramic wire nuts in it. Cut the two wires off of the old igniter and strip them back about 3/8". Then connect the wires of your new one to the wires in the oven using the ceramic wire nuts provided. Then mount the new igniter and rebuild the oven.

(*TIP---> The new igniter is very fragile! [that's why it came wrapped tightly in bubble wrap] Handle it gently!)

There ya go! Total job time? ~45 minutes.

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