Model WED9400SU0 dryer: No heat. passes all diagnostics, even heats in diagnostic mode, so heat element, thermistors, thermal fuse appear okay.

I found this

F:50 - Water Valve Failure
F:50 flashes if no voltage is detected at the water valve relay.
? Check that the wires are plugged in on the valve and at the
relay on the electronic control. This fault code appears ONLY when in the Diagnostic Test Mode.

and then the OP said

Well the thermal fuse and the thermistor were both bad, replaced and the dryer is working fine.

Thanks for the help Jeff....

https://www.google.com/search?q=Kenmore+HE5+steam+dryer%2C+error+F50

..

#1 reason of dryers going bad is woman's bra's....the medal sewed in the cloth itself for support comes out and goes into the small holes and hits the heating element on both sides and shorts it out...Change the heating element....It's in back of dryer.

If the element was replaced, and now verified that it is not presently shorted to ground, your next diagnostic would be to to test the timer connections per the schematic lookiong for a fused contact that energizes the heater, while set to air fluff setting.

Do all again

Hi brentf524...

Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse remove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
Please take time to rate me

to the touch the clothing should not be very hot, i see where ya have cleaned the vents(good job!!)
on occasion i have found where a fabric softner sheet has clung to the face of the lint filter housing,look at the plastic housing around the area of where the lint filter goes and see if something is stuck to it restricting the air flow into the filter housing

there is a motor relay in the consol part 3405281,there is also a heat relay too,you can swap em out to see if this is the problem, the one on right side with blue wires is the motor relay let me know how you make out

not sure with out model # but if there is a rmovable lower panel and dryer has even heat control bd suspect control also look for a thermistor this is a black thermastat looking part with 2 small wires mounted to blower housing beside a white thermal fuse