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the reset button is on the bottom left side of the screen, as far as the amp goes check your connections. should have 12vdc on the + and the remote wire to the ground on the amp. if your good on the connections at the very least the protect light should be on. if its not then something is wrong with the amp itself. verify all connections before assuming its the amp first.
When you've got good volume, try unplugging the speakers (only for a very short time) to see if that whining noise is still there or if it's stopped. We're trying to see if the whining is related to the low volume and "protect" or if it's only coincidental.
Try unplugging all the cables (except the power cord). Turn the player on & off several times & see if that whining noise acts the same. Also see if the player goes into "protect". What we're trying to do here is see if it NEVER goes into "protect" with the cables unplugged.
Last... try to get it to start & run without going into "protect", with all the cables unplugged (except power). Plug the cables in, one at a time, and see if plugging one of the cables in forces it into "protect". If so, there's something wrong with that cable or whatever's on the other end of that cable. Unplug it again & restart the player - no "protect"? Wait a little while, plug the cable in. "Protect"? Check the other end of that cable.
If it goes into "protect" with nothing plugged in except the power, then the player is probably a write-off, ready to be replaced (it's not very often that DVD players are worth repairing these days).
Disconnect all speakers
Meter power, remote, ground at amp, if all is good move on, if not check main fuses
Turn amp on; If in protect mode then your amp is toast
Turn amp on, if not in protect mode then start reconnecting speakers one by one until your amp goes into protect mode, then you'll know which speaker is bad.
Disconnect all the wires except the three main power wires, ground, 12v battery and remote. Now, turn on your radio, if the protect light is still on then there's an internal short in the amp. If the light turns green, then there's a short in either the auxiliary cables or the speaker outs. If it turns green, then troubleshoot the other wires that plug into the amp by connecting them one at a time until the protect light comes on, which will tell you that there's a problem with that speaker/aux wire.
Hello it sounds like the amp is going in & out of protection normally the protect light will pulse at the same time but is not always the case if you can get hold of a voltmeter set it to the 20v range & check to see if there is 12v present between the RCA (Phono socket) input & shield, if so then the switch mode power supply transformer is faulty. It could also be a number of problems elsewhere as well so really needs to be inspected by an experienced engineer.
9 times out of 10 if your amplifire is in protect mode and evrything externaly, like speakers, fuse, voltage, etc. checks out fine then
either you have shorted out output transistors or power mosfet transistors. Basicly that just about what happens with car amps.
It's easy enough to fix IF, IF you know what your doing. First you
need to check the output transistors with a digital volt meter on diode check, If they check out then check your power supply mosfet transistors. I can almost guarantee this is your problem. Very common. I buy non working amps all the time and repair them. Listen to pbabin also he has helped me out. Good luck
Turn the system off and disconnect the speakers. Turn the system on. If the amp still goes into protection mode with no speakers connected, then most likely the output transistors are bad. If the protection light is off, hook up one sub at a time until you find the one that is causing the problem
Sisnce you didn't mention the protection LED, I'll assume it's not on.
You need to measure the voltage across the B+ and ground terminals of the amplifier to confirm that the voltage at the terminals is least 11 volts. Also check the voltage on the remote turn-on terminal. Place the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp and set the meter to DC volts.
Hello fordguy, love the name i'm a ford man myself if thats why you chose it. Anyway to the amp. I buy broken amps all the time from E-bay and find which parts are bad order them and replace them and the amps work great. I just bought and recieved the same amp, Bazooka EL1500 and right away when I put power to it the protect light came on. Let me tell ya a little about car amps and the mostly the main reason they go into protect mode. First it could be something small and stupid like a fuse, sometimes amps protect light will still come on even if fuse is blown. Maybe something inside is touching something else causing it to go in to protect mode like lets say a small peice of solder is connecting to solder traces together or whatever, you get the idea. Second and this is I'd say 80% of all protect lights coming on. You either have shorted out output transistors or powersupply mosfets transistors. This is mainly the cause of this all the time. Sometimes though it's not and you have to do further testing. With your amp, I don't know what was going on at the time of when it quit. The capacitor you speak of is fine it's just the protective shrink looks melted cause thats how it was done when amp was made. You need to test all output transistors and power supply mosfets with a digital volt meter set on diode check. Let me know what you find and itf you need help just opost a comment asking for my e-mail and I will taake you thru the steps. If this helps, please rate it so I can get out of this apprentice status.