Question about GE Kitchen Ranges
Reset the breaker and try again.
Then... if that doesnt work
Usually its the burners themselves, unplug the unit and open the door of the oven. Under the lid of the glass top there shoould be 2 screws at 1/4 hex. Remove them and pull up on the cooktop. To the back of the neck if the unit- verify the both black wiring harness connectors are plugged into the nexl in the back.
Unplug each harness and plug them back in.
Disconnect them and remove the ground screw by the center burner.
Remove the whole cooktop on the corners w/ plastic hooks.
Take each burner out and check the elements for physical burn outs, if visually it looks okay, take the back panel off where the wires go to the back and verify everything looks normal.
Posted on Feb 03, 2019
Motherboard doesn’t typically control surface elements. Problem is most likely in wiring or switch or element itself. I have seen bugs get in element and short them out
Posted on Feb 03, 2019
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: GE Electric Range
It is very common for elements to "catch fire" when they fail. It is really electical arching. But to answer your question you shouldnt be concerned if it ever happens to the bottom element immediatly kill the breaker it will stop instantly. dont use a fire extinguisher as it wont stop the arching. And most ovens do use the upper broil element for baking for very short intervals like 10secs on every minute or so to brown the top of product. Some models (especially older builder line ) do not
Posted on Nov 16, 2007
Okay...what you have is a dual element with the 6 inch coil burned out. Yes, this is repairable, but unfortunately, since this is a dual element, it is sold as one assembly. The part number for a replacement is WB30T10044, and you can find it at repairclinic.com for about $90 (repairclinic item number 824238). I know it isn't cheap, but it beats having to pay for a service call, or buying a new appliance.
If you wish to repair this yourself, you can do so by following these steps:
1. UNPLUG the range before servicing. There are dangerous voltages still present even with burners turned off.
2. There are a few screws located under the front edge of the cook top. You will need to open the oven door to see them. Remove these screws and the top should lift up. If the range is not equipped with any kind of hinge supports, the top will have to be propped up.
3.On some ranges, there is a disconnect plug for the surface element wiring harness. If you have this feature, unplug the wire harness from the connector and follow these steps:
a. Unplug the cook top and leave the elements in place.
b. Place the whole cook top assembly face-down on a soft surface (like some old towels, or a blanket).
c. Remove the affected surface element. Take note of the numbered positions where the mounting screws are located and locations of the wires. You may want to write down the numbered positions and the wire color codes. HINT: A good digital camera can save you time if you have one. You will need to install the new element in the same manner.
d. Install new element (upside down). Handle the surface elements with care. They are very fragile. Care also must be taken not to handle the element coils or ceramic material. Try to handle from the underside of the element only. Oil from your hands can cause damage to the element and/or premature failure.
e. Re-install the cook top back on the range and you are DONE.
NOTE: If your range does NOT have a disconnect plug on the wiring harness you will need to perform the repairs with the cooktop propped up, and install the surface element assembly from underneath. A helpful hint: Use some duct tape to hold the element secure until you have it screwed back into place. Don't forget to remove the duct tape when completed. Once completed, lower the cook top and secure with screws.
I hope you find this information helpful. Let me know if you have require additional assistance.
Posted on Sep 09, 2008
Before you replace the range, I'd try replacing the oven temp sensor (part number
WB21T10007 ) which is rather inexpensive. If I were able to get my hands on your range I'd first test to see if the control is sending 240 volts to the bake element. We know there is 240 to the range because the burners and broiler work, but is the control sending the full 240 to the bake element ? The only way for you to know this is to use a meter and test the voltage across the terminals of the bake element when in bake. Of course you should also test the bake element with power off and at least one terminal disconnected to see if you have about 20 ohms resistance across the terminals and no resistance from a terminal to the frame of the range. If not, you may need a new bake element (part number
Let me know if I can be of further assistance. Thanks for using fixya.
If this helps, a fixya rating would be appreciated. Thanks.
Posted on Nov 08, 2008
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