Question about Whirlpool GST9679P Top Load Washer
My washer will wash and rinse but will not spin but makes a type of humming or whining noise on the spin cycle. What might the problem be?
there is a coupling between the motor and transmission that has cracked. with the crack in the coupling the transmission cant spin as fast as the motor causeing the loud noise. replace coupling to solve problem
Posted on Nov 21, 2007
When the washer initially fills for the wash, is it only hot water entering the drum? Try switching the water temperature between hot and cold as it fills. If any of them show little or no water getting through, it sounds too easy but check to make sure water supply taps are on, and that the cold/hot fill hoses aren't reversed. Remove the fill hoses and check any of the screen filters for blockage (in the hoses and in the inlet water valve). When the machine stops and waits to fill but all you hear is a hum, it sounds like there is power going to the valve but water is not able to get through it.
Posted on Mar 03, 2009
This is a problem with the pump being stuck so the motor cant turn the whole thing. Turn the washer on its side, underneath you can acces the pump, which is connected to the motor by two long clips. remove the pump and take out the colg that caused it to get stuck.
Posted on Jul 01, 2009
SOURCE: Will not spin on any rinse cycle
Hi, This washer does not have a belt. While the washer is agitating, if you lift the lid will it stop? Some models will agitate but not spin if the lid is up. It sounds to me like the lid switch might be going bad.
If you will get me a model #, I can look this up for you and give you a better idea.
Posted on Jul 05, 2009
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
Enter your model number (###.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.
If you cannot hear the motor trying to turn the pump, (but the washer will agitate) the problem points to the Timer, or the Lid Switch.
Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.
Following is a description of how to release the console for access to the pins.
This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.
It also has a troubleshooting guide.
To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.
Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.
With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.
If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.
If the problem isn't in the switch, and the Timer continues to move, the problem is likely in the transmission.
We had the same problem:
If you lift the lid, put it down again and the washer begins to spin, the problem is likely in the transmission "Neutral Drain Assembly".
Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.
Apparently, by opening and closing the lid, torque from the motor starting throws the cams into the right gears so that the washer will spin.
Ours had the same problem, no spin unless the lid was raised and lowered or we shut off and re-started the cycle.
After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again
Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.
In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).
You don't have to remove the drum.
Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside.
Remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.
Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main
agitator shaft), remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.
If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged the washer won't go into spin mode.
If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.
As an aside, fixing ours cost less than $30 including 80-90 weight gear oil vs. $170 for a new transmission.
Posted on Jan 12, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Aug 21, 2012 | Kenmore Washing Machines
Jul 17, 2012 | Frigidaire ATF6000ES Front Load Washer
Jul 29, 2010 | Washing Machines
Feb 07, 2010 | Whirlpool Cabrio WTW6600SBT Top Load...
Sep 26, 2009 | Kenmore Washing Machines
Jul 30, 2009 | Whirlpool Washing Machines
Jul 05, 2009 | Whirlpool 3.2 cu. ft. Plus Washer
Mar 03, 2009 | Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9549L Top...
Nov 19, 2008 | Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9549L Top...
Dec 30, 2007 | Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9564J Top...
124 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: