After it runs for a few seconds it starts making a steady buzzing, like the signal at the end of a load but without stopping, and showing the error code. The only way to make it stop buzzing is to unplug. Any ideas what the problem is?
Our Speed Queen electric dryer threw ER N5. I UNPLUGGED the power cord. Make sure you do this! Removed the front lower cover. (There are two bolts on the lower front. Remove them and hinge the cover upward to remove). Inside is a control board on the left with things plugged into it. Also inside, all the way on the back panel, is a 2" circular part attached to the back panel (mine is black).
I used the long vacuum attachment to gently vacuum all the lint built up on these two parts and anything else I could reach. This fixed my N5 error.
Error code "Er n5" on a Speed Queen dryer is not a known error code. Please check the manual or contact the manufacturer for more information on the error code and how to troubleshoot it.
If the control panel is not responding to touch, it is possible that there is a problem with the control panel itself or with the control board that powers it. You may need to have a technician diagnose and repair the issue.
In the meantime, you can try to reset the dryer by unplugging it for at least 30 seconds, then plugging it back in. This may help to reset the control board and restore function to the control panel.
It is also a good idea to check the door switch to make sure it is functioning properly. The door switch is responsible for turning the dryer off and on when the door is opened or closed, so if it is not working correctly, it could cause the control panel to not respond as expected.
Timer.
SOURCE: kenmore elite HE 3t - error code F dU and door is locked
Just in case there is a pull string with a loop, all plastic under the latch, need to pull the toe panel off and reach up inside the right, unplugged of course until you feel the switch. a pull latch is below the switch incase this happens and hats off to all star/ a serial error or a faulty switch is most of what causes this to start.
SOURCE: Indesit IC70C Condensor dryer
We experienced a similar problem and corrected it by closing the drying door and then hitting "OPEN" followed by closing. Sometimes we use a tool to release the catch and then close the door. We have not seen this problem return.
SOURCE: Kenmore Model 96573220 won't stop at end of cycle.
I figured out it was the start switch and took the switch apart and repaired the welded together contacts. Took only a few minutes.
SOURCE: Dryer stopped working, sounds like timer still running
I suspect it is the thermal fuse. Seen here. You will need to determine what caused it to blow. on these machines the blower wheel is notorious for getting loose and causing the element to over heat. This makes the heating element shut down faster and takes a long time to dry the clothes.
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61
SOURCE: Dryer starts, but stops in a few seconds, display code F 40
The F40 error is a communication error which means the main control W10111616 is not communicating with the motor control part number 8544799.
First - go through the machine and check all harneses 7 plugs. This expensive machine uses the cheapest parts possible. Unplug and re-plug all connections you can find.
Particularly the controller (CCU) and motor.
Most likely neither control is the problem but since the main control was replaced we know it's not the problem.
The key to diagnosing this problem is to check voltage to the motor control. There is a black and white wire going to L1 and neutral.
Refer to the wiring diagram for an image of this.
If there is 120 volts to the control and the blower motor is not running then the 8544799 motor control is most likely at fault.
It is more likely you will not read voltage there.
Use extreme caution checking live voltage and only do so if you're comfortable and confident using a volt/ohm meter.
If there is no voltage to the motor control and the main motor doesn't run the thermal fuse can be at fault or the main control which was replaced and didn't help.
From the description you give I believe the main motor is running when you get the F40 code so the thermal fuse and main control are most likely okay.
If there is no voltage to the motor control then the problem can be a fuse link that may be open preventing voltage from getting to the motor control.
This part is not the thermal fuse and is not listed in the parts diagram or even shown on the wiring diagram. The fuse link is most likely the cause of your troubles.
If the inline fuse link is open you will have to replace the entire wire harness. The inline fuse link is not available as a separate part.
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Tammy Zuver, did you ever figure out a solution to this problem? My dryer is doing the exact same thing.
Mine just started doing this today. Did either of you figure out what was going on?
Mine is doing same as well. Just started. Any suggestions?
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