Question about GE Kitchen Ranges
Ah yes, the ultimate battle. Unfotunately if you want to get the bottom drawer unstuck yourself you're going to have to fight with it. The best way to get this drawer out other than asking your kids to try, is quick jerking motions back and forth holding both sides. Make sure you keep the stove secure while you battle this. If you can get it open some of the way, use a stick or something to try to jumble up all the pots and pans you have down there keeping it from opening. If you have nothing in the drawer, then maybe use a broom handle to pry it out, or have someone tilt the stove back to see what's restricting it. If worst comes to down to it, you can call a repair guy and watch him struggle to get it open.
Posted on Jan 25, 2019
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Most service techs will advise you not to use self clean features on a oven due to excessive parts failures from the extreme heat.
Posted on Feb 21, 2009
The sensor is a part number WB23T10002 and goes for about $60. The paper inside the control area of the oven will state the normal resistance values of it. (probably about 1080 ohms at room temp, about 2650 at clean temp.) If you cut a lead to it, you would just get a F3 code, and if you cut the other and wire them together, just get a F4 code, so that wouldn't help diagnose the problem, but if you could use an ohm meter on the probe it would. BUT the oven should not come on without it being set to bake, SO I conclude that the ERC is indeed the problem (with the welded electrical contacts), which is a part number WB50T10043 which might go for about $125 or so. If you are careful when you replace it, you can probably peal the faceplate (part # WB27T10125) off and reuse it, so you should just need the ERC.
Posted on May 07, 2009
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