Question about GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator

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My freezer is not keeping food frozen

My freezer just recently stopped keeping things frozen. Even though it is on the coldest setting, things are thawing. It just happened out of the blue. The Fridge part is still working great. This was purchased used from an appliance shop that fixes appliances and resells. this was the problem when I purchased it from them but they said it was fixed and it was for about 4-5 months. Now it quit again. They only offered a 30 day warranty. What could be causing my freezer side to not freeze all of a sudden. I already had a problem with my ice maker not making ice properly and overfilling the tray and then spilling water into the bottom of the freezer and freezing. (at least it would freeze then). I was advised by an expert on this site what that problem most likely was and that it was not serviceable. I have learned to just deal with that problem but I really need to have my freezer. I would appreciate any help and advice on this situation. Thanks!! fans run when doors are closed and shut off open not frozen condenser never hot fans have stoped hours after cooling slowed down just clicking now still frosted up looked inside fridge through to freezer not much frost one to two min. a click

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Re: My freezer is not keeping food frozen


Posted on Nov 03, 2008

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Re: My freezer is not keeping food frozen

Tig...I'm not certain here but there are a couple of things we can look at and diagnose. First, be sure that your doors close tightly. If the gaskets leak, this will allow humidity in...that's where ice comes from. If you 'windowshop', this will also cause icing. Now...let's start with a full defrost. This can take about two days with the unit open and off. Once accomplished, the next thing to do is look at the unit itself. First, underneath, is the condenser coil clean? If not, do that. Now, from the back, remove the felt panel covering the lower portion. The big thing is the compressor. If the unit has been off for more than 20 minutes, clean the big pipe off. Now, start the unit. It should develop frost on the pipe which should either freeze up or dry out after 5 minutes or so. Caution: there is a fan in there! If still frosty, you're low on gas and the unit probably has a small leak. The icemaker can be looked at by removing it. It contains a float. If the float is damaged or jammed, it will not shut off...and will overfill the icemaker. Good luck.

Posted on Dec 21, 2007

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SOURCE: Freezer has extremely heavy build up of frost thru

There are a few reasons why the refrigerator part will not are a couple of tips that will help you to figure out why the refrigerantor is not cooling...

Refrigerator2_bing.gif not Cooling or Fridge not Cooling

How to Defrost Refrigerator Defrost Timer Problem


Posted on Jun 12, 2010

SOURCE: We have an Admirl RSWA228A, side by side refrigerator frosting

we ll see how u need to check the defrost timer....
Before testing the defrost timer, unplug the freezer to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
A mechanical defrost timer controls the defrost cycle of the appliance. In older models, the timer runs continuously and roughly every six hours, shuts off power to the cooling system and sends power to the defrost heater. In newer models the timer advances only when the compressor or defrost cycle is running - an improvement for efficiency. As the timer advances, power to the heating element shuts off and power is restored to the cooling system. If the timer does not advance, the appliance will be stuck either in defrost or refrigerate mode, resulting in, respectively, no cooling or frost build-up.
The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill of the freezer. It may also be found behind a cover plate inside the freezer, in the temperature control console, or behind the freezer near the compressor.
To test whether the defrost timer is simply failing to advance, locate the advance screw and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. This advances it to the next mode. If it was cooling before, it is now in defrost mode. Simply wait about 35 minutes and check whether it has left defrost mode and has resumed cooling (listen for the compressor). If it does not advance, the timer motor is probably bad and the entire timer needs to be replaced. If it advances as it should, then you can follow the steps below to test the switch electrically.
The timer is usually held in place with one or more screws. Remove the screws and gently pull the timer out far enough to disconnect the wiring connector. The connector can be removed by firmly pulling and rocking it left and right. It is not necessary to note the position of the wires because the connector plug is keyed so that it can be replaced in only one way.

Test the timer for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. The timer has four terminals. Locate the common terminal, it should be labeled "3" or "C". If the terminals are not labeled, determine which terminal coincides with the common wire in the connector plug; it is usually the white wire.
Once you have located the common terminal, touch one probe to it. Touch the other probe to each of the three remaining terminals. The multitester should display a reading of zero or near to zero ohms (which indicates continuity) for one pair of the terminals and possibly two pairs. The third pair of terminals should show no continuity (infinity).
Locate the timer switch and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. Now retest the timer as you did above. One pair of terminals should indicate continuity (possibly two pairs). At least one pair should give a reading of infinity. Note however, one of the pairs that showed continuity in the first test should now read infinity and one pair that read infinity should now show continuity. If the defrost timer does not pass these tests, it is likely that it should be replaced.

Before testing the defrost heater, again make sure u unplug the freezer to avoid an electrical shock hazard. The defrost heater is located at the back of the freezer. It may be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, ice maker and the rear or bottom inside panel of the freezer. The rear panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver. There are three primary types of defrost heater elements; exposed metal rod, metal rod covered with aluminum tape or a wire coil inside a glass tube. All three elements are tested in the same way. The heater is connected by two wires.Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced. Test the heating element for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading somewhere between zero and infinity. If the reading is not between those two extremes the heating element should be replaced.

this is how u check the thermostat..... again Before testing the defrost thermostat, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock hazard. Some defrost systems use a thermostat (a bi-metal switch) to prevent the defrost heater from overheating. The switch is normally closed. During a defrost cycle, the defrost heater causes the metal alloy in the switch to warm and as it does it curls back and breaks the circuit. As the metal cools, it makes a circuit again and the defrost heater starts heating again (as long as the defrost timer is in the defrost cycle). A defective thermostat can prevent the defrost heater from coming on or allow it to overheat which could result in heat damage or fire. The panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver. On some older top freezers it is necessary to remove the plastic molding to access the freezer floor. Removal of that molding can be tricky -never force it. If you decide to remove it, you do so at your own risk - it is prone to breaking. Try warming it first with a warm, wet towel. The thermostat is connected by two wires. The wires are connected with slip on connectors or a wiring harness. Firmly pull the connectors or harness off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced. Test the thermostat for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading of zero when the thermostat is cold and a reading of infinity when it is warm (40 to 90 degrees F depending on the model). If the thermostat does not pass this test it should be replaced. with regard to the parts incase u need a replacement..... check out the below link....

Posted on Sep 01, 2010

  • 10515 Answers

SOURCE: Hotpoint FFA60 fridge freezer, compressor


If the compressor is not running, it could be either a bad relay or compressor.This is not an issue with defrost components or temp. control .If you have experience in repairing appliances, could take all precautions necessary and use multimeter - You could do a continuity check on compressor motor and all combination's. An infinity value on multimeter would confirm bad compressor.

On the side of the compressor you will see a box (maybe a cover) remove the cover if it has one and then remove the wire harness. next you will see the relay with the capacitor mounted to it. give the relay a tug and pull it off the side of the compressor. once you have it off pull the capacitor off and then give the relay a shake. If it rattles the relay is bad. if the relay does not rattle the compressor is bad and you will need to call a service guy to replace the compressor. If the compressor would be at fault, then it is wise to invest in new refrigerator as the cost of the compressor would be really high as compared to cost of the new refrigerator.

Let me know,if needed further assistance.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

Posted on Dec 08, 2010

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