My freezer is getting frost build up on back wall which is blocking vents and not cooling fridge area well as a result. I'm assuming it has to with auto defrost but not sure. Any tips to maybe fugue this out?

First, inspect the back wall of the freezer for frost build-up. Defrost failures are a common cause for incorrect fridge temps, and the frost will block air-flow even if your damper is wide open. if there is no frost, verify that the evaporator fan in the freezer is spinning, THEN check the damper door to see if it is open during cooling. Call a tech, guessing will likely lead to a broken machine and/or tons of wasted money!

Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors, ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage.
Evaporator coils
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

If the freezer is located above the fridge, the air from the freezer drops into the fridge to create the cooling in the fridge. So what I would look for is a blocked vent from the freezer to the fridge, which is usually located on the top and or back of the fridge inside of cores. You can get a frost or ice build up in there and block the air flow to the fridge, that is usuall the problem. I would also heck the dial for temp control in the fridge, I know my kids have changed it before on me.

Hi,

Check out these tips...they can help you figure out what is going wrong with your refrigerator and why it is not cooling

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How to Defrost Refrigerator Defrost Timer Problem

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heatman101
.................

Hi,
There are a few reasons why the refrigerator part will not cool...here are a couple of tips that will help you to figure out why the refrigerantor is not cooling...

Refrigerator not Cooling or Fridge not Cooling
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3662945-refrigerator_not_cooling_or_fridge_not

How to Defrost Refrigerator Defrost Timer Problem
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3771673-defrost_refrigerator_defrost_timer

heatman101

A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

• The defrost timer
  
  
• The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)
  
  
• The defrost heater
  
  

If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Make sure the the evaporator fan is running and circulation is getting to the fridge side. Remove anything that could be blocking the vent that brings in the air from the freezer to the fridge. Make sure that no frost is building up in the back of the freezer. If there is frost, then the timer can be going bad.

Yes, replace the defrost heater and melt the frost with a hair dryer which is blocking air flow over the evaporator. The frost blocked coils (behind the freezer wall ) results in very poor cooling.

ou most likely have a defrost problem is there a large build up of frost in the back wall; of the freezer??

I am experiencing the same problem with my GE fridge. We have already tried the Turbo Cool, but nothing seems to help.
Thanks
Carol