Sub quit working, where do I find new board/amp/crossover panel
Sub stopped working, and I've tried to get audio several different ways, and come to the conclusion that the board is bad, or something on the board is bad. It powers up and I can bypass everything and go directly to the sub which works fine by itself but no amp/crossover. Any Idea where i can get parts.
I have the same problem with mine and since Acoustic Research went out of business, I too have been looking for a solution. I may have found an alternative to throwing away this really nice speaker. I found a company on the web that appears to sell an amp that may fit nicely into this speaker enclosure for $99.00. Check it out...http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?DID=7&PartNumber=300-805
UPDATE Feb-16-2016: This Amp is still going strong since 2012 when I replaced it. The price has gone up to 139.00, but may still be worth it to replace a bad one given the cost of Sub's today.
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from what im seeing in the picture, you have a house surround sound sub wolfer an there supposed to soumd deep an the crossover controls this there not ment for continues music an house an car speakers are different ohloms the lower the ohloms the deeper the bass
phreewillie, If you are certain that the problem is not with the speaker(s) the problem then sounds like an issue before the amp.
Did your friend have this issue? If yes, the problem is with the built in amp/crossover. If no, there is some kind of problem in your location.
The amp will not produce the popping sound even if the the amp has a problem electronically. The problem could be improper voltage, line noise, wire resistance or a grounding issue. The first two would be eliminated by using a line conditiner with a built in surge protector. The resistance and grounding issues would be associated with the wire connecting the sub to your electronics. It could be simply the cable connecting the sub has an issue, try swapping it with one that you know works fine. Are you using in wall wiring? Try using like stated above, a short known good patch cable. Sometimes the wire of choice during a installation will not work for that amp. Try taking that in wall cable out of the loop. I have seen just this problem in the past due to the type of wire used. A low cost way to eliminate the voltage issues is to try a different source of electricity by taking the sub to a friends house and see if you can reproduce the problem there.
Line outs Left and Right from mixer to power amp Left and Right inputs, Power amp outs to Subs(if they have passive crossovers built in check specs on subs). From Subs then to Main spkrs. Make sure power amp is set in stereo mode using this way.
Alternative: You will need at least a 2-way stereo crossover unit inline after mixer and before power amps if the subs don't have a built in passive crossover. Most of them do have passive crossovers in the subs these days. Then separate amps or one channel would drive the subs and the other the main speakers. True stereo would require at least a 2 way crossover and two stereo power amps if hooking them up this way.
There is another option as is common with many sub setups. Send the signal to the mains using L/R outputs from mixer and a separate Mono output to the subs only. Putting only bass/kick and low frequency outputs in this send would help too.
There is a huge discussion among audio enthusiast regarding subwoofer output and how you should connect your sub to your system. If sub preout is turned and on your amp/receiver and you are able to adjust the crossover frequency adjust your crossover frequency to highest setting, higher HZ number, so you don't double low pass filter your signal too much. If you can adjust crossover frequency on your receiver and your sub allows separate connection to by pass it's filter, use that instead. There is a great article on Polk Audio website regarding Home Theater setup. You can use it as reference and tweak it to your taste.
I HAVE 4 PS212 AND FROM WHAT YOU ARE DISCRIBING SOUNDS SIMILIAR TO WHAT HAPPENED TO ME. PLAYING THE SUB AT FULL VOLUME AND CLIPPING OCCURED NOT KNOWING THAT THE FAINT SMELL WAS THE VOICE COIL BURNING AND CONTINUING TO PLAY UNTIL KNOW SOUND LESSON LEARNED BUY A BIGGER SUB SYSTEM OR REPLACE YOUR SUB WOOFER.
IN MY OPPINION THIS IS A VERY GOOD PRODUCT WHICH I HAVE BEEN ABUSEING FOR MONTHS . SO QUIT WHINEING AND PAY YOUR DUES.
You would need a 2 or 3 way crossover, depending on whether or not you biamp your tops. Simply go out of your main outs on the mixer into the input of the crossover. Go from the low output of your crossover to your low power amp input (subs), and the high output of the crossover to the high power amp input (tops). Then go from your outputs of your amps into the speakers themselves.
i have the same moviestars 70+ plus a yamaha rx-v750 put the crossover on the sub to maximum (left knob) volume (right knob) about 2/3 clockwise. change the crossover on the yamaha to anywhere from 80-120 ( the 120 will put more bass to the sub) if your yamaha has sub level/volume control set it higher, also if it has LFE/sub out set it to sub only.
It is a 4 ohm nominal impedance woofer. If you put a new woofer in, it will last maybe half an hour and then fry/melt. The problem is the amp, not the woofer. Throw the amp out and use the box as a passive sub. Get a 100 hz sub crossover.