This is a top load and direct drive washer. I am trying to fix it for my brother. There are no noises when selecter hits the spin cycle position. Washer drains properly just no spin. Can you eliminate possibilities and give a direction to start troubleshooting? I woul like to narrow it down to a few things before I get started.
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Re: kenmore model #110.22802100 drains but no spin
If it is draining, then the motor is ok.
If it is agitating properly, then the motor coupler is ok.
This leaves the gearcase, clutch, basketdrive(brake), basket drive block, or timer.
Raise the lid and hold the lid switch down. Start a rinse cycle and let it go through the cycle. It should drain the water, then stop the motor for a split second then kick the motor back in and start spinning. If it doesn't drop out that split second then the timer is holding it in neutral drain. You can recreate this by letting it start draining, then let off the lid switch, then depressing it again. The basket should start spinning. If not,
Raise the lid and hold the lid switch closed. Start it in spin and see if you can get it started spinning by hand. If so you probably have a slipping clutch.
Post back with any questions.
You can go to sears.com, click on parts, and enter your model number and see parts diagrams of the washer. This can be helpful.
Re: kenmore model #110.22802100 drains but no spin
Hi. I have a similar problem and was wondering if you guys might be able to help me. Everything works ok but when it's finishing the spin cycle, it makes a loud rumbling noise. The rest of the spin cycle works ok. I think it might either be a part of the clutch or brake assembly that is bad. Any input or suggestions would be very helpful.
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The double shaft motor does double duty. One direction for wash and another direction for spin. In wash mode the water stays put in the tub because the pump is running backwards. In spin mode the motors turns in opposite direction. This pumps the water out and spins the clothes dry. From what you have described the drive coupler is toast.
This video shows how to swap the drive couple out:
The washer uses a brake system to stop the basket at the end of the spin cycle.
Just like a brake on a car, it's designed to slip a bit so that the basket / car doesn't come to an abrupt halt.
Over time, the brake shoes can jam against the brake drum and bring the basket to a halt too quickly with a lot of noise.
A way to solve this (that I tried and it works) is to pull the basket tube / brake assembly and if the brake shoes look OK, spray a small amount of silicone spray on the inside of the brake drum.
Following is a description of how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor, transmission and basket drive tube on Whirlpool / Kenmore / Roper direct drive washers.
As an aside, you don't need a special spanner wrench to remove the spanner nut. I've found that a short (10") pipe wrench hooked over one of the spanner nut tabs and tapped with a hammer will usually loosen the nut. Also, rather than hitting the Drive block directly with a hammer, put a short piece of wood under it first to protect it.
Following are the Whirlpool Service manual for this type of washer and the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial washers although the consumer models are basically the same. Whirlpool (and Sears) have replacement brake pad / spring sets.
Here is another PDF of the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial washers, consumer models are basically the same.
If you look at the operation PDF you'll see how the transmission works when going into the spin cycle. If the "Neutral Drain" cams are intact, they drive the main spin gear which drives the spin gear connected to the clutch.
If the main spin gear is broken (It's a metal plate surrounded by plastic gears) you would hear a major grinding noise and the washer wouldn't spin.
Opening the transmission is not difficult but is a messy job. It holds about 14Oz. of oil.
Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.
If the main spin gear or neutral drain assembly cams are damaged, they aren't too difficult to replace.
The Whirlpool Parts PDF has part numbers for both.
The Neutral drain assembly costs about $15 which is a lot less than $170 for a new transmission.
The Main spin gear is quite a bit more but still less than a transmission.
You need to replace the drive block and basket drive. You can download a tutorial to get you started at www.shop.washermd.com. The gearcase replacement tutorial will put you in the right direction. Dave