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In a window unit the condenser is in the unit and is at the back of the outside section. With a split system or whole house cooling unit the condenser is always outside. The condenser compresses the cooling gas after it picks up heat from the inside evaporator, and forces the heated gas through a coil with a fan blowing through the coil to drive out the heat. A gas can be compressed, but the amount of heat it contains remains constant. A compressed gas will be hotter than non compressed.
It sounds like your freezing up at the coil, which in turn, blocks airflow across coil and only a small amount of air comes out of the vents. This also explains the cold air coming from fan on the outside unit, since the system cannot absorb the heat from the inside of the house through the coil. Your air outside is usually blowing out warm to hot air because thats the heat it rejects out of your system. I would turn the thermostat to "OFF" and turn just the fan setting to "ON" instead of Auto, this thaws the system out faster. Give it time to fully thaw, make sure filters are clean, and check airflow. If airflow is back to normal, your problem is more than likely the charge of refrigerant. If you have to call a technician out, make sure the unit is not frozen at all before they get there, they would not be able to do anything with the system froze. Hope this helps and good luck!
Due to the many different questions I see about Air Conditioning, I am including this overview to help us better understand each other for trouble shooting. A basic air conditioning system has a Thermostat, Air Handler or Furnace Fan and a Condensing unit. In a split system, the condensing unit (Condenser) is separate from the furnace and usually in the back yard. When working properly, it blows hot air. It connects to the cooling part of the system by 2 copper lines. One large line and 1 small line. The part that cools the house is the "Evaporator" and is usually on top of the furnace inside the square metal box (Plenum). When the Air Conditioner is running, the large copper line should be cold and the smaller line should be warm. Common signs of low refrigerant are that both lines are the same temperature and/or frost or ice has built up on the large line at the condenser. The thermostat will normally display room temperature on till it is touched to change the setting. It could have a "Span" setting as well as times and temperatures. The operating "span" of MOST residential thermostats is 40 to 90 degrees. That means you can set it as low as 40 degrees and no higher than 90 degrees. It probably has a fan switch also. When in the "ON" position, the fan will run constantly, 24 / 7, but the condenser will still cycle on and off as needed to keep the house at set point. If you have a suggestion to include in this paragraph, please let me know.
I think I have it covered above. Let me know if you need something more specific. Thank you. Roger
Open up the inside unit pannel where the drain pipe is and you'll see a drain pan where the condensation water runs out to the drain , clean the drain pan and the hole and then with air pressure from an air compressor blow the drain from inside to outside and go outside the house where the drain discharged and you'll see the clogh that came out from the drain . To keep the drain clean , pour a cup of bleach or clorox every 3 or 4 months through the drain and in the drain pan.
your indoor unit is only circulating the air in the house. for your condensing unit. check your breaker in the electric panel. your contactor or your capacitor.
It not uncommon for the condenser motor to blow out, if evertything else is ok. The unit will kick in normally and you'll start getting cold air inside. Since the condenser is not doing its job, the unit's thermal protection will cut off compressor until cools down and then will start again.
Replace condenser motor (around $100) ASAP and do not use unit until then, othewise, major damage to the unit can occur.
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