Display screen image does not show a stable, true image.

It depends on the effect you want.

• To freeze motion, you need either a fast shutter speed, or a fast flash in a dark environment. In less than bright light you may not be able to get a fast enough shutter speed to stop the action. Increasing the camera's sensitivity to light by increasing the ISO will help some.
  
• You can blur the motion by using a slower shutter speed and a stable camera. Set a slow shutter speed and put the camera on a tripod or other stable surface, and you can get things like streaking car taillights and star trails. How slow a shutter speed depends on the speed of the subject.
• You can pan with the subject. Move the camera with the subject, and keep it moving even while the display blanks out while taking the picture. This will keep the subject sharper while blurring the background to lend a sense of motion to the picture.
• It's either to freeze motion if the subject is moving straight toward or away from you than if it's moving across your field of vision.

A stuck shutter is another common failure mode for digital cameras. The symptoms of a stuck or "sticky" shutter are very similar to CCD image sensor failure. The camera may take black pictures (for shutter stuck closed), or the pictures may be very bright and overexposed, especially when taken outdoors (for shutter stuck open). To confirm a stuck shutter, put the camera in any mode other than "Auto", and turn the flash OFF (you don't want to blind yourself for the next step). Next look down the lens and take a picture. You should see a tiny flicker in the center of the lens as the shutter opens and closes. If no movement is seen, then you likely have a stuck shutter. If so, please see this link for further info and a simple fix that may help:

It means that you may see bluriness in the photo due to camera shake. You will usually see this when the image is being shot indoors or in relative darkness, and you have the flash turned off. It will also be displayed if you are manually setting the shutter speed and have selected a very slow shutter speed for the conditions.

If you see this symbol, try turning on the flash, getting more light on the subject, or use a tripod or place the camera on a very stable surface when taking the shots.

keep iso 100 and set ur screen brightness

It might be that (sometimes) the battery is not strong enough to quickly charge the flash and you take a picture when it is not yet able to flash at the power level it needs to. This may be that the battery is weak and/or you try to take a second picture too quickly after the last flash.
On other occasions (when the images are blown out, I.E., overexposed) you are probably too close to your subject and are not using a reduced power flash setting. Experiment with a well-charged battery. Without reducing the flash output you will allways get this overexposure if you are a few feet away from the subject

You may need to use the flash. Make sure the setting is not flash off. If you're using the flash, make sure your subject is within the range of 14 feet for wide angle shots or 11 feet for telephoto shots. Use Image Expert to adjust the picture's brightness and contrast. Try adjusting the camera's exposure or sensitivity settings (use the Manual user mode). If you're taking pictures in the Manual user mode, look for the EV! warning that appears on your LCD screen when you are taking pictures out of the ideal exposure range. If you have trouble setting both the aperture and shutter speed manually, try adjusting the aperture and letting the camera choose the shutter speed with Aperture Priority mode. If you're using the macro mode to take a close-up photo, be sure to provide adequate lighting for your subject. If you're taking a picture at night and you want to light up the background as well as your subject, use the camera's slow synchronized flash mode. If you need more light, attach an optional external flash to the camera's hot shoe.

The Flash is useful up to approximately six feet, after which distance the light is less effective. The Flash is good for close subjects in low light. The Flash is not good to use when taking pictures in large rooms with low light or night / evening scenes. When the Flash is used, the shutter speed is automatically faster to compensate for the light from the flash. This means less natural light through the lens. This can cause dark images in large rooms or evening scenes. In this case, TURN OFF THE FLASH and allow the shutter speed to automatically slow down to adjust for natural light. Your images will be more bright. Be careful, slower shutter also means more potential for blur from motion by you or your subjects.

The Flash is useful up to approximately six feet, after which distance the light is less effective. The Flash is good for close subjects in low light. The Flash is not good to use when taking pictures in large rooms with low light or night / evening scenes. When the Flash is used, the shutter speed is automatically faster to compensate for the light from the flash. This means less natural light through the lens. This can cause dark images in large rooms or evening scenes. In this case, TURN OFF THE FLASH and allow the shutter speed to automatically slow down to adjust for natural light. Your images will be more bright. Be careful, slower shutter also means more potential for blur from motion by you or your subjects.

The Flash is useful up to approximately six feet, after which distance the light is less effective. The Flash is good for close subjects in low light. The Flash is not good to use when taking pictures in large rooms with low light or night / evening scenes. When the Flash is used, the shutter speed is automatically faster to compensate for the light from the flash. This means less natural light through the lens. This can cause dark images in large rooms or evening scenes. In this case, TURN OFF THE FLASH and allow the shutter speed to automatically slow down to adjust for natural light. Your images will be more bright. Be careful, slower shutter also means more potential for blur from motion by you or your subjects.

Current LCD display technology can reproduce about 300 different levels of brightness. Brightly lit scenes or light sources may exceed this brightness range, causing a temporary disruption (artifacts) in the live display. Artifacts are part of the display, but they are not part of your recorded image. If you take a picture while you see artifacts on the screen and then display the picture on the LCD, you will no longer see the artifacts.