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I have a HP transparency adapter #C7671A with a small circut board inside. There's what looks like a small coil or transformer in the ceter about 1'' sq. with heat problem. #'s on it are L9107A2 and 991126 has 6 tabs on one side and 4 on other. Need to know what it is and where to get. Thanks, Brett

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  • 1 more comment 
  • baspas11 Aug 03, 2009

    There are 2 ceramic disk caps(marked on board C2&C3) a white box w/68n J250 on it (C1) and one small electrolitic (C4), one resistor, 2 small half drum looking things with 3 leads each (Q1&Q2)one of wich shows sings of heat on solder side of board, and one drum shaped part the same size as the electrolitic only vinyl coated 2 leads and the letter F on the side(L1)and finaly the coil discussed before (T1). I have pics, how do I post?
    Brett

  • baspas11 Aug 03, 2009

    They are both the same with three legs # GC937

  • baspas11 Aug 05, 2009

    There is another number I had to use a loupe to read it, D1616 then there is a letter A below it and GC937 below that.

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  • Master
  • 724 Answers

Are there semi conductors on this board?
Can they be easily described?
It might be a power supply board
A transformer a bridge rectifier and a voltage regulator is there any capacitors on it?
It can be a linear power supply but since the late 80's I seen mostly switching power supplies describe that case and leads
if I find can find that other number it may be not as easy.

http://www.alldatasheet.com/view.jsp?Searchword=L9107

Posted on Aug 02, 2009

  • 1 more comment 
  • tommya300
    tommya300 Aug 03, 2009

    Brett it is a switching power supply. Q1 and Q 2 has three or 4 legs on them each we need to see if there are numbers they are both the same numbers so one that has not heated should be readable...

  • tommya300
    tommya300 Aug 04, 2009

    Are you sure of the number can it be ECG 937

    You have to make sure because the nomber you gave me does not exist in any of the cross references

  • tommya300
    tommya300 Aug 08, 2009

    http://www.datasheetpro.com/193655_view_...



    Here is the site with a data sheet that is as close as I can get without seeing the circuit board and how it is layed out...

    If you feel lucky at repairing this device see if the picture matches the transistor packaged ...

    Both needs to be changed...

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To check the defrost circuit , unplug the refrig and inside the refrig section at the top
about 2" in from each side in the back , there are "D" slots to put a finger in , and pull
downward and foreward , to remove the control panel cover . Once removed , there is a 1/4"
screw on each side holding the adjustment indicator panel on , 1 phillips screw behind both
light bulbs , and 1 screw holding the complete panel to the rear wall . After removing these
5 screws , at the top right corner , with about 6-8 wires going to it , is the adaptive
defrost board . Sometimes you can see the electronic board and on newer refrig's , a white
box will be seen. Inside this box , is the adaptive defrost control . Disconnect the plug
going to the board and on the right side of the PLUG , the far right wire is yellow , then
another color , then white . Useing a small insulated wire with both ends stripped , insert
one end into the yellow wire hole and the other into the white wire hole . This will bypass
the adaptive board and send power directly thru the defrost bimetal ( thermostat ) AND
heater to check if they are good .Plug the refrig back in . Now , wait about 3-5 min and
look for a red glow at the bottom of the inside freezer panel , which will be the defrost
heater or listen for sizzling which will be the frost melting and dripping onto the heater
.If NO red glow , watch for a spark while removing the jumper wire you installed , from the
plug . If a spark IS seen , then the heater was on and the heater AND bimetal are good . If
you see the red glow , hear the sizzling , or see the spark , then the adaptive defrost
board should be replaced . If no glow , sizzling or spark , then unplug the refrig and
reinstall the refrig control section .
Remove the food in the freezer section enough so that the 2 screws holding the lower freezer
panel on and the freezer panel , can be removed . Remove the panel . If the heater (black
element at the bottom of the coils ) wires are visible , trace then to the top of the coils
and disconnect . Use an ohm meter to determine if the element is good . If the element IS
good , at the top of the coils , is a 1" cylinder with 2 wires , clipped onto the coils .
This is the defrost thermostat ( bimetal ) . Replace this part if the element shows good .
If the element shows bad , replace the element . NOTE 1 : sometimes the element and the
bimetal come wired togather and the replacement part comes with a new heater and bimetal
already wired togather . This would be the adviseable replacement part . However , each part
can still be replaced individually . NOTE 2 : If looking at the bimetal and the top plastic
" cap " looks cockeyed , replace the bimetal as moisture has gotten inside and disturbed its
designed function .

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