I'm using LG 1.5 ton window type ac. my line voltage/current seems to be not enough for its optimum performance. for some time it blows normal air only and for some time it blows cool air and thus certainly it cannot make the room eough cool. this happens mostly in peak hours.
how to solve this problem? should i use a voltage stabilizer? if yes, then what should be its rating (KVA). my ac's input power rating is 1950 watt and its running current rating is 9.5 amp.
is there any calculation to find out KVA or VA rating of stabilizer for air conditioner of any capacity?
Re: Voltage Stabilizer for LG 1.5 ton window type ac
You should have around 120-125 volts at the outlet. If you have less than 110 volts at that one outlet, you may need to have your house wiring checked. Go ahead and call your local power company and have the power coming into your house checked at their transformer. They should do this at no charge to you.
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That would depend on how low the voltage gets. Because the lower the voltage gets, the more current the device draws at that voltage to operate. Higher currents can, in some cases shorten the life of electronic components if those components aren't designed to operate under those conditions. I have a microwave oven that operates on a 120V AC circuit. This circuit normally carries about 117VAC, with the microwave under full power, the line voltage drops to as low as 104VAC. This is just due to the load the magnetron puts on the circuit. If you lowered the voltage by about 5 volts in my case, the current draw would be enough to trip the 15A circuit breaker that protects the circuit. If I were operating the oven on a 20A breaker with 12 gauge wire instead of the 14 gauge, 15A circuit I'm using, the voltage drop would probably be a lot less.
Low voltage will burn out all the motors Higher currents will ruin the start capacitor on the compressor and fan motors too. 220 vac is the minimum. You have to allow for inrush or start up current which most likely is the cause of the under voltage. You'll have to get a larger capacity stabilizer.
Your question doesn't make sense as it is written, but if the real question is what size generator do you need to start the air conditioner I might offer the following....
Look on the air conditioner product label and you will find information concerning the supply voltage and current. This is a 2 ton unit and it probably requires 220VAC power. Also on the label will be a value for the maximum OPD (over current protection device). This indicates the maximum fuse or circuit breaker that can be installed in the power feeder line for the air conditioner. You will need a generator that is capable of supplying this amount of current during the start up of the air conditioner. The value is usually about 2-1/2 times the normal operating current that the generator will need to supply continuously. This is because the air conditioner is full of motors that draw a lot of current when starting up. If the generator can't supply sufficient start up current, the motors will not start and the AC will not operate. As a result, the generator size is usually relatively large in comparison to the actual size required to keep the AC running after start up. This is also why AC units are not typically powered from generator power. Good Luck!
"DC to AC" cords are not really a common item. They are called "Inverters". Typical inverters are 12VDC to 120VAC and are found in mobile applications to operate houshold current type (120VAC) devices. Inverters cost many times more than thier "AC to DC" or "AC to AC" sisters.
An "AC to DC" and "AC to AC" cord however, is a very common item. They are usually called simply "AC Adapters" and are sold in many electronics stores (Best Buy, Fry's, etc.) and electronic specialty stores (Radio Shack) and electrnics suppliers (MCM, etc.) Nearly all of them are designed to reduce the voltage in your home (120 VAC volts alternating current) to a different but usually lower voltage that is either AC or DC.
In order to select the proper AC adapter, you need to know: (1) Input Voltage - this is the outlet voltage - often 120 volts in N. America, (2) Output voltage - this is the voltage the device needs and is often indicated near the jack, The adapted must match this voltage. (3) the device voltage type - this will be either AC or DC. The adapter must match the type as they are NOT interchangeable. (4) the size and type plug on the cord that will allow it to mate properly with the jack. There are many, many types and it should be tested for fit prior to plugging in and must match the device jack (5) the power requirements - this is usually shown as a number in Watts (w) and / or Amps (a). It is very important that the apdapter power rating is equal to or greater than the amount specified by the device. Failure to meet the requirements above can cause failure of the device, adapter or both.
1) Your AC has a VERY powerful blower. 2) The intake air filter is probably really clean (if not recently washed). 3) It is extremely humid... The water is likely condensation on the evaporator (totally normal), but because the air is flowing so well and fast, it doesn't have enough time to drip down.
Unfortunately, there is not a great deal of information about LG splits available, but is you are talking $12,000 to to repair, then it is much cheaper to replace since a two ton complete is less that half that amount.
It is possible that your AC is not getting the right voltage or frequency and hence is trying to scavenge in gettting the current. It will be good if you can check on the mains voltage or on the wiring for a good 15 amp supply line. If there is any reduction or load onthe wire then the voltage can drop considerably. So in the first place kindly check this out. If this seems in order you will have to check for the fan or the compressor motor to be humming. If your cooling seems fine then you can check on the capacitor of the fan or the starter motor. I am sure since this is in warranty you must make a claim to get a free replacement. Hope you find my advice useful Good day
First the foam insulation is not just for looks,you will have some loss of cooling on the unit,the larger cooper line needs to be insulated,the small one does not.The large line is the suction line,the small one the liquid line.
Voltage,168 is low,sounds like a 208 volt unit or 220 volt.running at 168 or 198 ac volts is going to raise the amperage causing the compressor to run hot and work harder and soon burn up,And cause it to trip the breaker or shut itsself down on high heat.Your going to need to get that voltage fixed.I dont know why it needs a stabilizer if the unit was sized correctly it shouldnt need one.
Hope this helps.