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Re: As the tank nears full, the fill valve is making a
It sounds like the washer in the top of the fill valve is starting to go bad.you can replace it with a washer from home depot.it maybe a level 4 type job for the home owner so if you can do it do it if not call your plumber.
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1.) Check to make sure that the water shut-off valve is all the way open (the water valve a.k.a. the shut-off valve is located behind the toilet near the wall or the floor, depending upon installation placement.) The water supply line attaches to it and feeds up into the refill valve assembly inside the toilet tank.
2.) Check the float assembly or the refill valve assembly, make sure it hasn't bound up by getting caught on another part inside the tank.
3.) Check the water level to make sure that it sits about 1 inch below the overflow tube in the middle of the tank. If the water is lower, adjust the float inside the tank to raise the water level. For models that have a ball float, turn the screw on top of the fill valve clockwise to raise the water level. For models that contain a cylinder float valve attached to the fill valve, squeeze the clip on the side of the float and pull the float up until the water reaches the desired level.
My sister has a two year old Jacuzzi toilet that worked fine until a few months ago. Then it started to take 10 minutes to shut off after each flush. I lifted the tank cover and immediately saw the problem; at least 90% of the refill water was going into the refill pipe instead of the tank. Upon examination I discovered that the plastic part that holds the flexible refill tube to the vertical refill pipe was broken. This part not only holds the refill tube in place, it also has a small orifice at the end to restrict the flow into the pipe. The part was broken in such a way as to let nearly all the water go into the refill pipe instead of the tank, hence it would run for 10 minutes after the toilet bowl was full and waste all that water. I found a small coarse thread stainless steel screw that fit into the plastic attachment piece to help plug the orifice and cut down the amount of water going to the refill pipe. Now the toilet flushes and refills in less than 2 minutes. I'm in the process of trying to find a replacement for that part but so far no luck.
Your fill valve is going bad it can be replace with a new fluidmaster instead of the Ultra-G you have in it its going bad they do over time you may want to check your house water pressure in case that may have been what broke it you don';t want to break a new one.
The fill valve sounds if it is bad.Go to lowe's and get a fluidmaster fill valve(about $8) instructions included.turn off water and remove water from tank then disconnect supply tube,remove old fill valve install new,follow installation diagram,and the adjustment process to adjust the water level to correct level that should take care of your problem.
Is the flapper valve slow to return to the closed postion allowing water to flow through the flush valve? Make sure the toilet flapper is moving freely and is sealing properly against the flush valve. If there is no lengthy or continual water flow in to the toilet bowl then this is not the problem.
Is the water valve on the water fill line to the toilet tank fully open? This may seem silly but it could be this simple.
Check to make sure your fill valve is opening fully. If you have an older toilet there may be some deposits that need to be cleaned way to allow free movement.
If toilet does eventually fill to the desired level, there is no leakage, water valve on fill line is fully open and fill valve is opening fully then recommend you shut off water supply, drain toilet and disconnect water fill line from the water valuve and toilet tanke to make sure there is not a blockage. If the water line and connections are clear you may need to remove the fill pipe in the tank and check for blockage. If this is very old, conisdering the cost and effort, it may be simpler to replace at this time rather than trying to extend the life.
Lift the tank lid off, place it somewhere safe for a moment, and look at what happens: If you're talking about jiggling the handle to get the tank to start to fill with water, then it sounds like the chain or rope is out of adjustment. It can't be TOO TIGHT or the water will leak past your flapper (will cause your dripping noise, tank water level will leak down, causing constant refills), and it cant be TOO LOOSE or the toilet won't flush correctly. Since you didn't mention trouble flushing the toilet, I think that it may be a little too TIGHT. When you jiggle the flush lever-it is supposed to pull a chain or cable to open the flapper at the bottom of the tank. Flush the tank and watch what happens-all the way through to refilling the tank with water and shutting off the water refill valve-Does the flapper get stuck on the chain or something? It is supposed to fall back down to allow the tank to refill after flushing out your toilet. Does the chain look very loose? The dripping sound you described indicates that the flapper is not sealing 100%. The flapper is very easy to replace, you just have to get the adjustment set for when you flush the toilet how sensitive you need it. You amy have to play with it a little bit before you get the adjustment correct.
for the upstairs if the valve is fully on there is not much you can do other than replace water service to the house or heaven forbid repipe.Valves usually don't restrict fill volume.But you can take the supply loose from the tank and stick it in a bucket turn the valve on and check the flow.this should narrow it down.Down stairs repair or replace flush valve
Based on the phrasing of your question, I'm thinking that the bad noise happens for the first time when the valve opens to start filling (this happens when you first let water into the bowl) and then again when the valve closes (when the cistern is full). Valves sometimes have a high-pitched squealing noise when it takes a long time to open or close this valve. Sometimes, you can make it go away by turning the screw to adjust the height that the ball/float has to be in order to shut off the water (the more horizontal, the longer it takes to shut off the flow, and the longer the noise continues). Sometimes, this is just caused by an aging mechanism and it turns out to be quicker and easier to just replace that part of the toilet (they make replacement kits that are very inexpensive and easy to install).
There should be a small plastic tube (about 1/4 inch in diameter) running from the fill valve (at the left side of the tank) to the overflow tube (about 1 inch in diamter) located near the centr of the tank. The small plastic tube is supposed to have water flowing when the tank is refilling. This is the water than helps refill the bowl. The little plastic tube some times gets knocked off from its position at the top of the overfill tube.
Remove the tank lid and look at the fill valve. Is it a yellow valve?
This fill valve is common on the Toto Toilets and can easliy plug with debrie.
They can be disassmbled and cleaned. however, I usually just replace the valve with Fluid Master Fill valve.
You will also want to check the water coming into the toilet by turning off the water that supplies the toilet and disconnecting the water supply line. After removing the water supply line turn on the water at the valve to make sure that the water is flowing properly. Check the supply line also to make sure it is not plugged.
Be sure and place a small container to catch the water that will come from the valve. A towell will also help from making too much of a mess.
If the Supply line and the valve are clear the problem is in the fill valve.
The G-Max system denotes the Flushiing system which is a 3" flapper that allows the water from the tank to flow into the bowl quicker.