Frigidaire refrigerator compresspr won't run

SOURCE: Frigidaire stand alone Refrigerator won't cool Fans and Compressor work

Ended up having a freon leak in tubing around door. Luckly the warranty was 5 years in sealed system. New one was FREE.

SOURCE: Freezer quits working

Solution Found! The problem is when the temperature surrounding the refrigerator in the garage falls to < 45 degrees, the thermostat regulating the refrigerator will not call for the compressor to kick in to provide cooling (it's temperature requirements are being met). Since there is no demand, the compressor will not cycle, which is how the freezer is kept cold, and the freezer eventually warms up to match the refrigerator temperature. Frigidaire makes a "Cold Kit" that I ordered and installed from RepairClinic.com for $22 (Item #: 1037646; Description: Garage kit). It's basically a strip heater that runs off the control power to warm the thermostat and causes the compressor to cycle once to twice a day to keep the freezer frozen. After installation, the refrigerator stays at 40-45 and the freezer stays around 0 degrees.

SOURCE: KENMORE TRIO 2004 59675523400 REEFER/FREEZER NOT COOLING

It is the compressor that has failed. The hum is it trying to start and the following click is the overload protector opening. What is the temperature where the refrigerator is located? Allow the compressor to cool down before trying to restart it. If it still does not restart after it has cooled off it is done.

SOURCE: KENMORE TRIO 2004 59675523400 REEFER/FREEZER NOT COOLING

it should not be the compressor as the bottom is only not cooling.

SOURCE: Compresor will not kick on. all fans running,

Compressor won't run or it is "clicking' on and off: This normally could be a bad start relay and over load for the compressor, dirty condenser coils need cleaning, condenser fan motor is not running or the compressor itself. To check the compressor properly you should test it with an amp meter, each compressor is rated in running amps  ( see model/serial tag or the sticker on the compressor )...if the compressor is drawing too much current, this may be why it is shutting off. Check the model tag for proper amp rating. Some relays will be easy to notice the broken with them, they may be burnt. Example one, example two, example three. Some of these relays can be removed and give them a little shake, and if they rattle around inside the relay is likely bad. Compressors can also seize and click on and off or one of the electrical windings inside the compressor could have opened up. You can use a test cord to help check the compressor and this also will help with the amp test. If the compressor checks ok and you want to install areplacement start relay. You will need to find out which winding is which. You will need an ohm meter to determine the windings. First check to see if you have windings in the compressor. Then check to see if they are grounded. If the compressor has windings and they are not grounded, you can find which winding is which. Check for grounded windings by reading from each terminal to a good ground on the cabinet. Read from the top terminal to the lower left terminal. Read from the top terminal to the lower right terminal. Read from the lower left terminal to the lower right terminal. Write down the resistance of each reading as you go. The highest reading you get will be the run and start winding of the compressor in series with each other. The other terminal left will be the common terminal. Read from the common terminal to each of the other terminals. The terminal with the lower resistance will be the run winding. The higher resistance the start winding. Using the original style relay is always preferred, but using a general replacement can "get you by" if needed.