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tiles on wooden floors will always move and crack the grout/tiling cement
therefore the rubber membrane goes down first with out nails and then everything is laid on top
that way when the wooden floor moves , there is a water proof membrane to prevent the water from rotting the wood over time
There is a tile backer, kinda of like fiberglass mesh, I have also seen a waffle looking plastic, that will go down over the crack in the floor and will not effect the tile one bit. You just tile over everything, no mastic, no set under this stuff, no fasteners, just tile over it like a normal floor, and the best part is, no crack! Hope this helps.
You can get a crack membrane to put over the cracks. First use a primer on the floor, this is a primer just for this application, then put membrane on top of primer. these products can be found at home depot or lowes or any tile store.Also do not use cheep thinset. the better thinset is more flexible and will absorb any movement. The cement board would not work as they will move or flex and cause the grout to crack and tile to loosen
To cut a tile using a wet tile saw, measure the exact space in which the tile will fit. Cuts are usually along a perimeter, in a corner, or around an electrical outlet. Mark the line on the full-sized tile in grease pencil. Most saws will accommodate tiles up to 12 inches (30 cm) in size, but oversized saws can be rented for huge floor tiles. Wearing safety glasses, place the tile on the moveable platform, and line up the mark with the edge of the saw. With the motor running, slide the platform toward the blade with an even but gentle pressure. Since you are grinding the tile apart, ensure that the water have sufficient time to cool everything.
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