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There is not enough water in my top loader kenmore 600. I'm at the cottage, maximum water pressure is 60 pounds

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  • Kenmore Master
  • 47,789 Answers

Could be a defective level sensor or control board

Posted on Jun 14, 2018

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi there,
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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duby1990
  • 370 Answers

SOURCE: kenmore oasis top-loader problem

Use the Whirlpool affresh tablets. Use all three the first time in hot water on the longest cycle. Then use one a month in hot water ect. and it will keep your washer smelling better.

Posted on Nov 14, 2008

localwonder
  • 6784 Answers

SOURCE: ont stop filling with cold water

Hi. the pressure sensors in the water valve assembly appear to be damaged. you will need to replace the inlet water valve assembly in this case asap.

This is solenoid failuer. (basic water valve failure this case)

Posted on May 31, 2009

  • 46 Answers

SOURCE: kenmore series 70 tip loader washer is leaking

your just seeing the water that is leaking dureing the wash cycle unplug washer there will be 2 screws on the header panel 1 on each side take them outgently pull header panel to you then flipupunplug wiring harness thas to the cabnet there will be 2 clips 1 on each sideuse a flat screwdrive and pry back they will come out tip cabnet back to you the whole thig will come off look at the pump in the front it has a weep hole in it see if it has been leaking from there

Posted on Jun 27, 2009

wracefans24
  • 1985 Answers

SOURCE: oil pressure gauge shows 60-80

the oil sending unit that screws in the block beside the oil filter may be faulty,
the worst thing would be the oil pump its self the regulator valve on it

Posted on Jan 26, 2010

  • 1937 Answers

SOURCE: my top loader kenmore is noi spinning

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump
removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (110.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Four possibilities: (Ranging from easiest to messiest)


Newer model Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a Lid Switch as a safety device. Unless the switch senses that the lid on the

washer is closed, the washer will neither agitate nor spin.

Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section

on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf8525712

2007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


It also has a troubleshooting guide.

To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using

an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the

washer back in.

Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?

newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b

With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.

If the washer still doesn't work, check the motor coupler.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the

transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or
spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor

coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=135

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6

inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to

put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they

don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.


If the motor coupler is OK, the problem could be the clutch:

Sears has a replacement clutch band kit.

See the following for how to pull the pump, motor and transmission.

You DON'T HAVE TO PULL THE AGITATORS OR TUB.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?

newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=65fc1c013d6130868b14c8bb4baf7bfd

Also see the Whirlpool / kenmore service manual for these washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf8525712

2007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Both the Motor coupler (available from most appliance parts stores) and the clutch band kit are relatively inexpensive.

See the Following Whirlpool parts list for alternatives to the Sears part numbers.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf


If you've tested the Lid Switch and the Motor Coupler is fine, and the clutch bands and springs are OK the problem could

well be the transmission. "Neutral Drain Assembly".

See the Whirlpool / Kenmore Service manual for transmission operations on top load direct drive washers.

WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b

0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf


Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into

spin mode.

When ours had a similar problem, we looked at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the

Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) and noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to

have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and

gears.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator

uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).

You don't have to remove the drum.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two

clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside.

Remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.

Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft), remove the 8

screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic

cams.

If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged the washer won't

go into spin mode.

If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.

As an aside, fixing ours cost less than $30 including 80-90 weight gear oil vs. $170 for a new transmission.



Posted on Jun 01, 2010

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