If your amplifier has what they call High level inputs (basically inputs on the amp that you run the speaker wires from your radio into), you can splice wires from where the connectors are on your rear speaker(s), still leaving the speaker hooked up, and use those as an input into the amp. If your amplifier does not have high level inputs, a convertor is available to turn an audio signal from your radio output speaker wires ( spliced in just as above, leaving the speaker hooked up), into an rca output jack. Or the best thing to do would be to buy another say 2-4 channel amp w/high level inputs and rca inputs and outputs, and run your rear speaker wires into the amp. Then you'll be able to run the rca cables out of that amp and into the sub amp, and you'll have the new amp to power your rear speakers or rears and fronts. That would be ideal. But, A convertor is your best bet. Got em at best buy, circuit city, etc. Hope this was helpful.
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FIRST OF ALL --- THERE IS A FEW THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW BEFORE HOOKING UP A WOOFER LIKE THIS ---- IS THIS A STORE BOUGHT POWERED SUB WOOFER ? DOES IT HAVE IT'S OWN CROSSOVER BUILT INSIDE ?? I WOULD GUESS IT NEEDS TO BE HOOKED UP TO A SUB WOOFER OUTPUT FOUND ON THE BACK OF THE IN DASH PLAYER .. THE WOOFER NEEDS TO RECEIVE ONLY LOW FREQUENCY AUDIO WHICH MOST OF THE NEWER CAR STEREOS PROVIDE BY AN RCA JACK ON A SHORT WIRE COMING OUT OF THE STEREO ... IF YOU TRY AND TAP IT TO FULL RANGE SPEAKERS THAT ALREADY ARE CONNECTED TO AN AMPLIFIED SIGNAL THE SOUND WILL BE DISTORTED ....... POWERED SUB WOOFERS NEED A LINE LEVEL INPUT WHICH IS MUCH LOWER THAN SAY SPEAKERS ALREADY RECEIVING AN AMPLIFIED SIGNAL. POWERED WOOFER WILL ALSO NEED TO HAVE A 12 VOLT ELECTRICAL CONNECTION AND A GROUND WIRE TO OPERATE THE AMPLIFIER BUILT INSIDE. IF YOU HAVE NO EXPERIENCE WITH THIS TYPE OF HOOK UP I WOULD STRONGLY RECOMMEND SOMEONE WHO DOES [ CAR AUDIO SHOP ]
You can connect the two 6x9 speakers to the two individual left and right outputs of the car stereo.
Connect each of the left and right channel with the correct polarity . Now the Sub-woofer requires an amplifier to be connected separately and so you need to use the car stereo to be linked to a sub woofer amp which powers the sub woofer.
Hello.... I am sorry to hear you are having problems. The reason for this is that since you have a stock stereo, the shop (or person) whom installed the amp and subs used a line out converter. What this part does is allows the connection of RCA cables to the factory head unit. Almost all bass signals are always in stereo, so since you were only hooking an amplifier for just subs, you can actually just connect to just one of the rear speakers instead of connecting to the right and left. Just makes the install a little quicker. There is nothing wrong with this as I usually do the same thing in our shop. However, if you are going to be using the balance control, then you will need to go back to the shop and have them hook the converter up in stereo (to both rear speakers). Hope this helps!
The Punch P3001 is a 2 ohm stable monoblock amplifier. It therefore has only 1 channel. Not bridgeable.
Below are the specs off the rockford site.
Punch P3001 - 300 watt mono amplifier
150x1 @ 4 ohms, 300x1 @ 2 ohms, 12dB/oct HP/AP/LP crossover variable 40-400Hz, RCA inputs, RCA pass thrus, cast aluminum heatsink, military spec PCB, and remote Punch Bass EQ with 0-18dB @ 45Hz. H 2.4" x W 11" x L 11.7"
If you are using your amplifier at a 4 ohm impedance then you will only have 150 Watt delivered to your woofer or woofers. If you are running your amplifier at a 2 Ohm load you will be recieving 300 Watt to them. This however will also draw more current to deliver this power.
If you are certain that you can deliver the correct current to the amplifier and you are running a 4 Ohm configuartion. Then consult a Rockford delaer for a sub upgrade.
If your amp has rca jack inputs only you will need in-line filters to reduce the stock stereo speaker outputs down to less than 3 watts. If your amp has high power inputs you can use those. If your amp does not have a built-in crossover then you will need to install a low-pass crossover or filter before the amp so the only the bass comes thru or the sub woofer will have major distortion. Another problem is the amplifier needs a turn-on signal for the blue wire and most factory radios do not have one. That means you will have to tie that wire into the switched 12v wire from the vehicle so the amp comes on when the key is switched on. It can be done be done but I don't think you will be very impressed with the sub due to most factory stereos have a limited bass range. Most aftermarket head units have built-in crossovers and sub outputs. They also produce much better sound than the factory unit. So in other words yes you can.
Batt + or B+ or Positive. This is the connection directly to your automobiles battery. It should be a fused connection rated to about 15% higher than the fuse installed in your amplifier.
Negative or '-' or Ground. This wire should be just as thick as the 'Batt + or B+ or Positive' wire. This wire can attach to any solid clean metal connation in the vehicle. Usually a trunk latch.
Remote or amp startup wire. This wire is a thin 12V wire that will come from the deck. It's a signal wire that tells the amplifier to turn on.
Inputs Low level inputs are in the form of RCA connectors and will require that your deck or head unit has low level or RCA outputs. High-level inputs are used for stereos that don't have low level or RCA outputs. They work by taking an audio signal directly from the vehicles speakers and then amplifying it as necessary.
Speaker connection. Match the + and - these with the appropriate connectors on the speaker box. Red means + and Black means -. I hope this helps.
first of all is the amp a four way amp? if so then you need to know what the watts of the subs are (you dont want to melt them) wire + and - of channels 1 and 2 to one sub and + and - of channel 3 and 4 to second sub, nice thick lead from battery positive (fused) to positive terminal on amp thick lead from a good earth point to negative terminal on amp run a set of rca leads down the opposte side to the positive wire to prevent interference, run thin wire from remote wire of radio to the remote terminal of amp, rca's are plugged in at stereo and at the am. may need a RCA splitter to be able to power all four channels
If the amplifier supports an RMS power output close to the RMS input power of the subwoofers then run the amplifier in stereo mode. For example 150 watts RMS X 4 channels driven at 20-20khz. (If you can provide a model # for the subs and the amp your looking at I can help you further with this decision.
Wiring for this is easy and simply involves matching the connectors for 2 of the channels (Front or Rear) to each of the subwoofers.
#2 Mono Bridged mode.
If the amplifier is lower power but mono bridgable you can bridge two Pairs of channels and power each of the subwoofers this way.
Generally speaking a 2 channel bridgable amplifier will be able to at least combine the wattage of each channel into a single monural channel and in many cases its actually higher.
So you would bridge the front 2 channels into a single bridged mode for one subwoofer. and then you could bridge the read 2 channels into another bridged mono channel for your other sub woofer.
For example if you had bridgable amplifier thats 50 watts RMS X 4 you coudl very likely (Generalization based on quality of amplifier) send 150 watts RMS to each subwoofer.
Again I would need to know what amp you're refering to to provide specific wiring instructions. Many Bridging amplifiers either have a single switch that will send them to bridged mode or you would use the positive + terminal from one channel and the negative - terminal from the other channel or a combination of both.