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I have a Sherwood RD-6108 Receiver and I can't remember how to turn on the subwoofer output to have the low bass sent to the subwoofer only. I cvan get to the point where "Sub N-W" is flashing in the window but then what do I do? I got this receiver and other electronics sent to me but they lost the manuals. This sub issue is the only thing I need that is in the manual. I also wonder how the KLH R5100 subwoofer output works, also. Where I live now there is 220 to 240 voltage wall outlet so I had to get a 500 watt transformer that changes 220/50 Hz to 110/60 hz. In my apartment I have a little IBM surge suppressor that handles 125 voltage. The red "surge light is always on so I presume the input voltage in my apartment is constantly above that, I don't know how much higher. I hav succesfully run that Sherwood for hours - about 2 hours at a time with 2 & 1/2 hours max. my vcrs run ok - so far. Am I doing damage to my equipment? The heat on my Sherwood rd-6108 does not come from its transformer but from the front - are the output transistors near the front face? Doesn't look like there's too much there. I had my JVC S-VHS plugged into a different transformer where the power was changed to 110 or so but the 50Hz was not changed and it went down and is in the shop now. You could hear it a medium to high pitched beeping which got louder until the unit turned off. I have a little CHASE simple preamp/controller which turns itself off all the time whenI try to run it, it seems hypersensitive. I have gotten a little music through it (into my carver M-200) but it just wants to turn off.

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  • bobrambob Aug 02, 2009

    Hi Lee; I'm not quite sure about your comment on my surge protector. If the red light for "surge" is on all the time I assume the voltage is above the 125 volt rating on the unit ALL THE TIME. Does that mean that this surge protector is supressing the voltage over 125 volts or just telling me that its above 125 volts? If it is actually supressing the excess voltage (above 125 volts) then is there anyway to know/predict when (what power input) its voltage handling limit will be exceeded? They sell a cheap (chinese made) voltage regulator down here (220 volts only that is rated for 1800 watts). I suppose I could get one and put it before the 220 transformer (yes, I had planned to get a bigger one) to smooth out the input to the transformer and that would lower the transformer's output to a proportionally normal 110-120 volt range. A comment regarding that little Chase controller for my Carver M-200, its sensitivity (flakey) may be to the extra high (over the surge limit of 125 volts) voltage (is that logical?) or there may be something else happening. I thoroughly sprayed the interior of the unit with electronic cleaner spray and it didn't help - if anything the turn-off became slightly more sensitive. It acts as if it doesn't like something. I took the four screws off the cover of the unit (its quite small with only a volume control and inputs for CD, VCR, TV, and AUX) to use the spray cleaner and there's not much there (all switching/volume controls are totally electronic - no manual controls) and that's fine as all I want it for is to control the Carver's volume. Its transformer is quite small and it has what appears to be a solid state on/off black square/rectangle plastic feeling thing with three power wires connected. If that thing overheats from that excess voltage (if that surge protector allows it through) it may automatically turn the system off. OR it could be from feedback from the one circuit board, well two because the transformer is on a separate one with a couple of tiny resistors. Does this sound like an excess voltage type problem? Thanks, Bob



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Hi and welcome to FixYa,

On your concerns:

  • enabling subwoofer out on a Sherwood RD-6108:
  1. when the SUB W - N is displayed/flashing, press ADJUST UP/DOWN to cycle through SUB W - Y & SUB W - N (Y is for yes & N is for no);
  2. press MEMO/ENTER once; OR
  3. press SPEAKER MODE;
  4. speaker setting set to "S";
  5. all other settings, press SPEAKER MODE for more than 2 seconds;
  6. press either ADJUST UP/DOWN to cycle through the different available selections;
  7. press MEMO/ENTER once;
  8. to confirm sub woofer is enabled, press ADJUST UP/DOWN to cycle through SUB W - Y & SUB W - N
  9. incidentally, the owner's manual is available here
  • KLH R5100:
  1. for some reason the user's manual of a KLH R5100 is not readily available online;
  2. perhaps you can request a copy direct from the manufacturer, pls click here; or
  3. call 1-818-767-2843 Ext. 117;
  4. fax 1-818-785-3581
  5. snail mail > KLH Audio Systems, 16250 Stagg St. Van Nuys, CA 91406
  • 220/50 Hz to 110/60 hz:
  1. different equipment would react differently on the 50 & 60 Hz difference;
  2. adverse effect most noticeable would be on AC motors, time based circuitry (clock);
  3. it should not have a pronounced effect on AC to DC conversion such as those in transformer type power supplies or SMPS (switch mode mode);
Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

Posted on Aug 03, 2009

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Here is the manual for your reciever. Refer to p. 16 you will want the letter to be on S. The instructions for how to do it are there as well. I would get a few more of those transformers, They are only about 35$. 500 watts is not really alot enough for just the reciever. I would actually buy a 1000 watt one for about 60$ then just use a surge protector/suppressor. You will have 1500 watts overall that should be enough to run the few things you are running. I would try and get a surge protector like the ones from monster power that has clean power protection so it keeps the power nice and even. Other then that you are fine.

Posted on Aug 01, 2009


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IC or Integrated Circuits are common in all electronics devices. The Sherwood Receiver mentioned will have lots of them. Each one will do a specific task. IC's look like black boxes with at least 8 pins coming out of them. I will post an image of a typical ones.
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Generally speaking, an amp protects itself from heat, shorts and overloads by refusing to turn on or stay on.

Overloads can be from excessive periods of high output or marginally low impedance loading by the speakers; and shorts would be wiring issues or a speaker blowing up.

You should be able to feel if it's hot. WHY is it overheating? Make sure it has sufficient ventilation on all sides and that vent holes are not blocked by dust balls. Ensure the fan (if equipped) is running as designed (some only operate on demand). Clean dust and debris from it.

If the amp comes back on after cooling, you're lucky. They only have so many self-protection cycles in their lives so continuously resetting or cycling their power without addressing the cause can do more harm than good.

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Check for loose speaker connections as a root cause for intermittent shutdown.

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If you consider that a TV is just a lightshow, it's not that complicated...

Composite Video Out to composite video IN on the TV would be the minimalist absolute necessary connection for managing the receiver through On Screen Displays.

Unless you intend to dub video to a VCR or something, there is no reason to bring TV video into the receiver.

Register and download the manual for free at

My preference is to send the BEST version of any medium (audio or video) directly from it's original source to the BEST ELECTRONICS that uses it; then send minimalist versions across for convenience and lo-fi watching/listening.

Any self-respecting modern TV has multiple hi-def video inputs, so run the Bluray, DVD, cable box video straight in and run the audio from those devices to the Sherwood.

Fewer expensive cables, no excessive connections to go bad, no unnecessary handling of the material.

I'm pleased to see the manual for this one (and the product's limited video capabilities) don't tempt the user to route everything through it on the way to the TV.

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This is the overload protection circuit. Make sure not alot of dust build up inside and make sure no speaker connections are touching. Most likely being that it a sherwood you will want to consider replacement.
Thank you,

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See step 9 for turning the subwoofer output ON
Part of the original link i gave you to your online manual.

Thanks for using FixYa - a FixYa rating is appreciated!!

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Hi - You can download the manual by clicking the link underlined in blue below:


Your sub woofer needs to have it's own power amp i.e. a "powered" sub woofer:


Assuming your sub woofer is powered & connect as shown then check the following setting:


Let us know how you get on.

Please take a moment to rate this solution & let us know if the information given was useful to you - Good Luck!


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