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Water leaking at fill cycle only. Model A382

Water leaking at fill cycle only.
Looks like fill tube over spraying

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Clean out the fill tube. It most likely has crud in it, spraying instead of flowing.

Posted on Aug 01, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Roper washing machine does not fill for rinse cycle. Goes directly to rinse agitate without water.


Without Model number I am only guessing but I suspect you have a blocked sensing tube that travels from the Level selector switch to the side of the tub somewhere. It is possible for this plastic tube to become partially clogged and not allow trapped air to vent when tub is drained of water. Usually this problem manifests itself as an overflow of the tub. Check the full length of this clear hose and see if the end nearest the tub looks like it may have debris or dirty detergent clogging it.

This hose is pushed onto a nipple mounted to a reservoir on the side of the tub. Push a thin copper wire 4-5 inches into the those after removing from nipple and also down into the nipple an inch or two before reinstalling the hose to the nipple. You MIGHT even blow into the hose while you have it off and you SHOULD hear a clicking sound coming from the level selector switch body.

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Bunn nhs-b leaks how to take top off


Ours was leaking as well.

Unplug the machine first. The entire top just snaps off in one piece. When you have this off, gently snap out the pivoting arm you are looking at that has a clear silicone cover over the drain to the tank. This needs to be cleaned along with the top resevour. Remove the brew basket (where you place the filter). Tip the unit upside down and drain the water. Unscrew the spray nozzle. There are two Phillips screws that need to come out. Remove them and then gently pry off the bottom section as well. It pivots from the back.The on/off switch will probably come out of it\'s mounting when you do this so take a good look at how it\'s placed so you can snap it back in when you go to reassemble the unit. The stainless steel band around the top of the unit will probably come off at some point during dis-assembly. This is just for looks so if you don\'t want to bother with the hassle of getting it back in place, don\'t worry about it.

There is a silicone tube that attaches the bottom to the top. Pull this off for cleaning.

Clean everything you see with white vinegar. Do a good job, soaking the tube, flapper, spray nozzle etc. If you saved the package that came with it when you bought the unit, there is a long, thin brush for cleaning the drain tube. If you don\'t have that anymore, pipe cleaners will work but be careful you don\'t poke a hole in the silicone tube.

Leave the pivoting arm off the top of the fill tank and fill everything with white vinegar and let it soak. Dump it out and be amazed at all the crap that comes out. Do this a couple of times until nothing more comes out. Reassemble the entire unit making sure you get the silicone tube securely in place. This is a pain but take your time and do it right or it will leak. Fill everything with water and run it for a few cycles until it is flushed out. About once a month or so, dump out all the water and fill the tank with white vinegar, let it soak and then run a brew cycle with vinegar instead of water. Flush as above.

The siphon, drain tube and spray nozzle get clogged with calcium and this is what causes the leaks.

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1 Answer

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A strainer before the inlet valve can also get stopped up restricting flow.

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1 Answer

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I believe this is the part you're looking for:

http://www.fisherpaykelparts.net/product/420833/420833-Spray-Fill-Assembly/

It looks like it will run you $27.95 (+s&h probably)
F&P's site says that this tube is broken from overloading the machine

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Check the water level switch. This is a diaphragm-like device with a small plastic tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level increases, so does the pressure on the air in the plastic tube and when it reaches a certain level, it activates the switch to turn off the water and signals the timer to start the appropriate cycle. Look for any obstructions in or damage to the plastic tube. The switch can be tested using a multimeter or ohmmeter. Check for continuity. A lack of continuity indicates a bad switch. Sorry for your trouble and I sure hope this helped. Best wishes.

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This is almost always due to a faulty shutoff valve. The valve is at the back, where the water line connects to the refrigerator. Turn off the water supply, remove the water line with a wrench. You should be able to take out the valve with a few screws and by removing one or two wiring clips and the plastic line on the other side leading to the fridge. A new one costs about $60 - $80 at a appliance parts store. Bring the old one with you, and the refrig. model number, and make sure the new one looks the same as the old.

The problem stems from the valve continuing to leak a bit of water to the icemaker after it fills the tray and shuts off. This trickle of water freezes and blocks the line, so matter how many times you defrost it, it will just happen again.

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