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Tom Campbell Posted on May 22, 2018
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I have a 22 year old light switch with 16 gage wiring .The new single light switch doesn't have a place for 3 wires. 1 white and 2 black.How would I hook it up ?

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Marvin

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  • Master 85,242 Answers
  • Posted on May 22, 2018
Marvin
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5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 71 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 13, 2009

SOURCE: Help - I am trying to install a honeywell RLV4300A

You will have to have schematics from the old wiring diagram. Then you will have to confirm its consistency with actual old wiring before you can be sure that the wires run to the proper places on the old heater and a/c system. This sounds like a gas furnace and is simpler than a heatpump. Once you know what distinguishes the wires with the same color, you should label them and then you may call them a different color if they were wired with wrong wire colors. You may be in luck if you go to the furnace control box an look at the terminals.. They are usually labeled with a R for Red and W for white and Bl for Blue and B or Black. If you have other colors on these then it sounds that it was wired with wire spare wire by someone who knew what they were doing but neglected to leave a path for someone else follow.
You may be able to use a continuity tester of circuit tester to id these wires that are in question...
ie, once indintified, you can match with the requirements of the new stat.

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loft404

loft404

  • 11 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 17, 2009

SOURCE: how do I install decora sureslide single pole dimmer switch??

Ok, first turn off power by finding the break box and switching to off. Then I'm assuming you mean by "socket" you mean the hole in electrical box mounted in or on your wall the dimmer is supposed to mount to. Sounds like your electrician ran the power back to the switch through your neutral/white wire. Your dimmer has a top and bottom, it also could possible have a tiny word imprinted that says "to light" and "+" if not attach the white from your socket to the top black wire on the dimmer, then connect bottom black wire to the socket's black wire...ground wires should connect to each other and to the ground in the wall socket. Use wire nuts to secure, then check to make sure no wires are touching anything except for what they are supposed to me touching...and test it before you permanently attach. Go switch power back on, and try your dimmer...if it works GREAT:) Now go turn off power one more time, tape your wire nuttted connections with electrical tape, mount dimmer and go turn back on the power. Hope this helped! Thanks

john h

  • 29494 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 22, 2010

SOURCE: I'm using a Leviton 1755 combo 3 switch for a bath

remove white switch one and connect to incoming white ground--all whites should be connected [hooked] together these are grounds-- switch 1 black from fan ,leave switch 2 red from fan ,switch 3 vanity black

Anonymous

  • 3 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 15, 2011

SOURCE: I have a Leviton single

easy one first: ground wire to green screw. We have to assume the two black wires are the hot(coming from power source) and switch leg(going to light). Switch will have two brass colored screws. Looking at the switch with the off/on markings right side up. Put hot wire on upper screw and switch leg on other brass screw, With nothing hooked up, the hot wire will be the only wire with voltage on it. You can buy a non-contact voltage tester at Lowes or any place that sells electrical supplies. Now we must assume the two white wires are neutrals(one coming from power source and one going to light. The pilot light part of the switch will either have a silver colored screw or a white pigtail on it. all whites hook together. The pilot light is wired internally to the switch leg. Your switch should work properly now.

A

Anonymous

  • Posted on Aug 29, 2011

SOURCE: I have a light switch

You have 3 cables entering the box.
Each cable has black and white and ground wire.
You have a single pole switch.
The switch has 2 brass-colored screws and 1 green-colored screw.

1) One thing is certain: all the ground wires connect together and then connect to green screw on switch.

2) After that, we are guessing without more information.
Add a comment.

3) What does the switch control?

4) If the switch controls a hallway light, and there is another switch for the same light: then you have wrong switch. You need 3-way switch. Buy 3-way switch and re-post question at fixya.

5) If switch controls a bath fan-light combo, repost question at fixya.

6) If the switch controls a regular light, and no other switch is involved: then the following information might work. Or you need to do testing and re-post another question at fixya.

-White wires probably connect together and are covered with a wire nut.

-Then two black wires connect to one brass screw and 1 black wire connects to other brass screw.

-But which black wire?

-Only one of the black wires has power from circuit breaker. That is hot wire.
-Hot wire connects to 1st brass screw on switch. Either screw.

-And then connect one of the other black wires to 2nd brass screw. Turn on power and see if light turns on.
-Try other black wire same way.
-The black wire(s) that turn on lights on should be left connected to 2nd brass screw.
-If one black wire did not turn on lights, then that wire probably connects to 1st brass screw along with hot wire.

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20 year old Hampton Bay fan requires new 3-speed pull chain fan switch replacement. I did not copy the wiring pattern for the L, 1, 2 and 3 positions. There are 3-wires: black, white and blue.

Typically AC wire protocol designated black = line voltage (means \'death\') and white is neutral (cold).

The blue one will be a switched line to the motor and a meter capable of checking continuity should allow you to determine the proper wiring.
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New fixture installation

Fixture is not identified.
Usually each light fixture is held in place with 2 screws -or- a center nut.
Remove old light and you can see 2 wire nuts covering black wire and white wire, and possibly another wire nut covering green wire or bare copper.
Untwist wire nuts.
Attach new light fixture wires same way as old was removed.
Make sure black wire goes to black wire on light. White to white, green to bare copper.

Copy and paste following links to see basic wire nut, and single-pole and 3-way switch wiring:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-select-right-wire-nut.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-GE-15312-timer.html

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Jun 05, 2012 • Home
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1answer

I have a light switch with 3 wires that have to be hooked to it.3 black wires 3 white wires and 3 ground wires.The light switch has 1 place for the black 1 place for white and 1 place for ground.

You have 3 cables entering the box.
Each cable has black and white and ground wire.
You have a single pole switch.
The switch has 2 brass-colored screws and 1 green-colored screw.

1) One thing is certain: all the ground wires connect together and then connect to green screw on switch.

2) After that, we are guessing without more information.
Add a comment.

3) What does the switch control?

4) If the switch controls a hallway light, and there is another switch for the same light: then you have wrong switch. You need 3-way switch. Buy 3-way switch and re-post question at fixya.

5) If switch controls a bath fan-light combo, repost question at fixya.

6) If the switch controls a regular light, and no other switch is involved: then the following information might work. Or you need to do testing and re-post another question at fixya.

-White wires probably connect together and are covered with a wire nut.

-Then two black wires connect to one brass screw and 1 black wire connects to other brass screw.

-But which black wire?

-Only one of the black wires has power from circuit breaker. That is hot wire.
-Hot wire connects to 1st brass screw on switch. Either screw.

-And then connect one of the other black wires to 2nd brass screw. Turn on power and see if light turns on.
-Try other black wire same way.
-The black wire(s) that turn on lights on should be left connected to 2nd brass screw.
-If one black wire did not turn on lights, then that wire probably connects to 1st brass screw along with hot wire.
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1answer

I have a single pole switch that currently controls a bedroom outlet. i am installing a fan and light in the bedroom. i have a new triple switch that i want to control the existing outlet, the fan and the...

Wiring is not fully described: Location of hot wire and neutral wire from breaker box are unknown.
If Hot wire arrives in ceiling box first, the switch box will not have white neutral wires that are twisted together and covered with wire nut. Neutrals will be in ceiling box.

What is known: You are replacing single pole switch attached to one 14-2 wire going to light.
You are replacing light with a fan-light and replacing switch with a 3-pole TM8111 switch.
You have replaced 14-2 wire with 12-3 wire.

TM8111 wiring shows following link:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/TM8111-switch-wiring-500.jpg
Fan pull-chain wiring shows following link:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Fan-motor-1-344.jpg
Assume neutrals in ceiling box.
Assume Hot wire in ceiling box: Connect 12-3 black wire to black Hot wire. Connect 12-3 white wire to black wire on light. Connect 12-3 red to red wire on fan.
White neutral from fan and white neutral form light connect to other white neutral wires and covered with wire nut.
Wiring at switch:
Black Hot wire from ceiling box connects to A COM terminal.
White wire to ceiling light connects to A SP2
Red wire to fan connects to A SP1
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1answer

Es lexus 300 p 1705...What is this?

DTC P1705 - NC2 (Direct Clutch Speed Sensor) Revolution Sensor Circuit malfunction or Direct Clutch Speed Sensor Output is 300 RPM or less with Vehicle at 20 MPH or more & with Park/Neutral Position Switch Off

Most probably you have an electrical fault causing the problem and attached is a diagnostic procedure. It could be 2 separate problems and after rectifying the P1705 only would you know it is single or 2. Repair manual shows right on top of transmission, black sensor with single bolt, 2 wire plug. P/N 89413-08020 list price $113.80

NOTE: DTC P1705 is set when PCM receives 2 gear position signals at the same time.

1. Turn ignition on. If any A/T gear position indicator lights remain illuminated when gear selector is moved from that gear, go to next step. If all A/T gear position indicator lights turn off when gear selector is moved from that gear, system is okay at this time.

2. Disconnect A/T gear position switch connector. If all A/T gear position switch indicators go out, replace A/T gear position switch. If all A/T gear position switch indicators do not go out, go to next step.

3. Reconnect A/T gear position switch connector. Shift through all gear positions except Reverse. Using a DVOM, measure voltage between 16-pin PCM harness connector "D", terminal No. 6 (Green/Red wire on 2.3CL or White wire on Accord and Odyssey) and 25-pin PCM harness connector "B" terminals No. 20 or 22 (Brown/Black wires).

If battery voltage is present, go to next step. If battery voltage is not present, check for a short in Green/Red or White wire between 16-pin PCM harness connector "D" and A/T gear position indicator, or A/T gear position switch. Repair as necessary. If Green/Red or White wire is okay, check for loose PCM harness connectors. Replace PCM with a known-good unit if necessary.

4. Shift through all gear positions except Neutral and Park. Measure voltage between 16-pin PCM harness connector "D", terminal No. 13 (Blue/White wire on Accord or Light Green wire on 2.3CL and Odyssey) and 25-pin PCM harness connector "B" terminals No. 20 or 22 (Brown/Black wires). If battery voltage is present, go to next step. If battery voltage is not present, check for a short in Blue/White or Light Green wire between 16-pin PCM harness connector "D" and A/T gear position indicator, or A/T gear position switch. Repair as necessary. If Blue/White or Light Green wire is okay, check for loose PCM harness connectors. Replace PCM with a known-good unit if necessary.

5. Shift through all gear positions except "D4". Measure voltage between 16-pin PCM harness connector "D", terminal No. 9 (Light Green/Black wire on 2.3CL or Yellow wire on Accord and Odyssey) and 25-pin PCM harness connector "B" terminals No. 20 or 22 (Brown/Black wires). If battery voltage is present, go to next step. If battery voltage is not present, check for a short in Light Green/Black or Yellow wire between 16-pin PCM harness connector "D" and A/T gear position switch. Repair as necessary. If Light Green/Black or Yellow wire is okay, check for loose PCM harness connectors. Replace PCM with a known-good unit if necessary.

6. Shift through all gear positions except "D3". Measure voltage between 16-pin PCM harness connector "D", terminal No. 8 (Green/Blue wire on 2.3CL or Pink wire on Accord and Odyssey) and 25-pin PCM harness connector "B" terminals No. 20 or 22 (Brown/Black wires). If battery voltage is present, go to next step. If battery voltage is not present, check for a short in Green/Blue or Pink wire between 16-pin PCM harness connector "D" and A/T gear position indicator, or A/T gear position switch. Repair as necessary. If Green/Blue or Pink wire is okay, check for loose PCM harness connectors. Replace PCM with a known-good unit if necessary.

7. Shift through all gear positions except "2". Measure voltage between 16-pin PCM harness connector "D", terminal No. 14 (Green/Yellow wire on 2.3CL or Blue wire on Accord and Odyssey) and 25-pin PCM harness connector "B" terminals No. 20 or 22 (Brown/Black wires). If battery voltage is present, go to next step. If battery voltage is not present, check for a short in Green/Yellow or Blue wire between 16-pin PCM harness connector "D" and A/T gear position indicator, or A/T gear position switch. Repair as necessary. If Green/Yellow or Blue wire is okay, check for loose PCM harness connectors. Replace PCM with a known-good unit if necessary.

8. Shift through all gear positions except "1". Measure voltage between 16-pin PCM harness connector "D", terminal No. 15 (Light Green/White wire on 2.3CL or Brown wire on Accord and Odyssey) and 25-pin PCM harness connector "B" terminals No. 20 or 22 (Brown/Black wires). If battery voltage is present, check for loose PCM harness connectors. Replace PCM with a known- good unit if necessary. If battery voltage is not present, check for a short in Light Green/White or Brown wire between 16-pin PCM harness connector "D" and A/T gear position indicator, or A/T gear position switch. Repair as necessary. If Light Green/White or Brown wire is okay, check for loose PCM harness connectors. Replace PCM with a known-good unit if necessary.


Hope helps.
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1answer

I have the unit wired and it does not wotk.I have black to black,red to red green to ground and white to white,any thoughts? Thank you

Electrician test wiring before connecting anything.
First of all, you don't mention what type of switch was replaced.

1) Leviton 6230 countdown timer is made to replace single-pole light switch only.
Single pole is where 1 switch controls the Load (light fan motor)

Your wiring sounds like 3-way switch.
3-way is where 2 switches control same Load.
For example a hallway usually has 3-way switches.

To confirm. If old switch has 1 dark screw, 2 brass screws, and 1 green screw, then that is 3-way switch. Use Leviton LTB15, LTB30, LTB60, LTB02, LTB12 countdown timer for 3-way.
Smarthome sells product and shows .pdf manual
http://www.smarthome.com/4255/Leviton-LTB60-1LZ-4-Button-10-20-30-60-Minute-Countdown-Timer-Switch/p.aspx


2) If old switch has 2 brass screws and 1 green screw then that is single-pole switch.

3) If you are replacing single-pole switch, here are testing & wiring instructions for Leviton timer.
Remove device and separate wires for testing.
Use ordinary two wire tester.
Tape tester leads to wood sticks so hands are away from power.
Do not untwist wires that were twisted together before you started.
Turn on power.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Hot wire. This wire will connect to timer black wire.
Now you know Hot wire.
Test Hot wire to each of the other wires, excluding bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on neutral. Timer white wire connects to Neutral wire.
If box does not contain Neutral wire, then timer white wire connects to bare ground.

Timer green wire connects to bare ground wire.
Timer red wire connects to wire going to Load.
0helpful
1answer

GE Timer #15086 has red, white, green, black wires. Wall has white, black & black wires and switch sits between 3 other light switches. (I am replacing the current timer which only has 3 wires and...

GE 15086 programmable timer replaces single-pole switch only.
Single pole means 1 device turns Load on-off.
3-way is where 2 devices turn Load on-off, for example 2 switches located in hallway.

Your existing timer has white, black and blue wires.
Your new timer has white, black, red and green wires.
Green wire connects to bare ground wire in every occasion with every wiring device.

Electricians don't guess, they test the other wires.

Remove old timer.
Separate wires for testing.
Turn on power.
Tape ordinary tester leads to wood sticks to keep hands away from power.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester will light up on Hot wire. The Hot wire will connect to timer black wire.
Now test Hot wire to each other wire (except bare ground)
Tester will light up on Neutral wire. Neutral wire connects to timer white wire.

The remaining wire connects to timer red wire.
After connecting timer, push manual override button to check that Load turns on-off.

Manual override on 15086 is the door that covers buttons > use door as push button to check Load.
Next, program the timer.
Programming is straightforward and similar to other timers.
If you have a problem, add a comment.

You can also take advantage of Fixya phone support. Expert will walk you through the steps for a price.
1helpful
2answers

How to disarm or reset an alarm system for a 1996 Jeep Cherokee?

Hope this helps:- Factory Disarm Purple/Yellow (-) Driver's Kick Panel Black Connector at ECM -slice into this wire, & wire it to ground, this disables the alarm.
Cavity/Fuse Diagram (1996 Grand Cherokee, passenger side kick plate to find, Owner's Manual pgs 205-206): 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22

Row 1: 1-6 (left to right) Row 2: 7-12 Row 3: 13-18 Row 4: 19-22
1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Fuse Panel (Passenger Side kick panel) Reply

CAVITY FUSE DESCRIPTION 1 -10 amp (RED) Radio 2 -15 amp (Lt Blue) Cigarette Lighter 3 -10 amp (RED) Rear Washer Switch, Body Controller 4 -10 amp (RED) Airbag 5 -10 amp (RED) Lamp Out Module, Overdrive Switch, OBD II 6 -15 amp (Lt Blue) Vehicle Information Center/Graphic Display Module Park & Side Lamps, Overhead Console Lighted Visor, Automatic Dimming Mirror 7 -20 amp (Yellow) Body Amp, Cluster, Body Controller 8 -20 amp (Yellow) Rear Wiper Motor, Flipper Glass Solenoid, Cargo Lamp, Trailer Tow 9 -15 amp (Lt Blue) Brake Switch 10- 10 amp (RED) Rear Window Defroster 11 -10 amp (RED) ABS Module 12 -10 amp (RED) Heater-Ventilation-A/C Control & Recirculation Motor 13 -15 amp (Lt Blue) Hazard Switch, Turn Signal Switch 14 -15 amp (Lt Blue) Spare 15 -15 amp (Lt Blue) Spare 16 -10 amp (RED) Right & Left Courtesy Lamp, Glove Box Lamp, Halo Lamp Cargo Lamp, Underhood Lamp, Dome/Read Lamp Right & Left Visor, Automatic Dimming Mirror 17 -15 amp (Lt Blue) Radio Illumination, Tail Lamp, Graphic Display Module, Park & Side Lamps, Headlamp Switch, Body Controller 18 -20 amp (Yellow) Spare 19 -15 amp (Lt Blue) Passing Light 20 -15 amp (Lt Blue) Radio, Heater-Ventilation-A/C, Vehicle Information Center 21 -15 amp (Lt Blue) Power Outlet 22 -10 amp (Blue) Airbag Module -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Alarm, Remote Starter, Keyless Entry Wiring Information Constant 12V+ Pink/Black Ignition Switch Harness Starter Yellow Ignition Switch Harness Ignition Dark Blue/Gray Ignition Switch Harness Ignition 2 Red/Black Ignition Switch Harness (for AC) Accessory Black/Orange Ignition Switch Harness Tach Gray/White Coil Brake Switch White/Tan Brake Switch Trunk Pin n/a Works with Dome Light Parking Lights Blue/Red (+) Left of Steering Column or Light Switch Head Lamp Tan/Black Light Switch Factory Disarm Purple/Yellow (-) Driver's Kick Panel Black Connector at ECM -slice into this wire, & wire it to ground, this disables the alarm. Door Trigger Yellow (-) Driver's Kick Panel see notes Door Lock 5/Wire in Driver's Inside Driver's Door Orange/Purple Lock Pink/Black Unlock Door Unlock and Passenger's Doors Inside Passenger's Door Black/White L Pink/Black Unlock Horn Wire Gray/Orange (-) Steering Column Windows Up LF=Light Blue, RF=Brown/White, LR=Blue/White, RR=Gray/Black Doors Windows Down LF=White, RF=Purple/White, LR=Red/Black, RR=Green/White
• Cruise Control Information • Stereo Information • View all Jeep Vehicles
1helpful
1answer

How do you wire a 3-wire timer switch (white, black, red) to replace a single light switch to a front door light?

You have a 3 wire in-wall timer.
Colors red black white

You are replacing single pole switch that has 2 wires (plus ground, we'll ignore ground for now)

So switch has 2 wires:
1 switch wire goes to Load/lights > this wire connects to timer red wire
1 switch wire is Hot from breaker > this wire connects to timer black wire
When finished, if lights do not turn on, then reverse red and black wires.

Timer white wire powers clock inside timer.
To complete circuit to clock, white wire is connected to neutral wires.
Located in back of electric box are white wires twisted together and covered with wire nut.
These wires are neutral, connect timer white wire to these wires.

If box does not have neutral wires described above, connect timer white to bare ground wire.
Add a comment any time
1helpful
1answer

I have an ST01 timer that I want to place in a three way circuit that appears to be different than that shown in the directions. My circuit has power (black/white/ground) coming into switch 1 with a three...

One caveat of most In-Wall electronic switches/timers is that the device _must_ be installed at the switch box that has the power, in your case switch #1. In order to install it at switch #2, in your case, you need an extra wire between the switches (to carry the HOT wire), and unfortunately, the bare ground(ing) wire is not permitted to be used to carry current per National Electric Code (NEC).

In your case the wiring for the ST01 is as follows:

Switch box #1: Connect the incoming White wire to the White wire in the 3-wire cable that goes to switch box #2. Connect the incoming (Black) HOT wire to the Black wire on the switch/timer. Connect the Red wire in the 3-wire cable to the Red wire on the switch/timer. Connect the Black wire in the 3-wire cable to the blue wire on the switch/timer. Connect the green wire on the switch/timer to the 2 bare ground(ing) wires. If you have a metal box this connection should also have a pigtail that connects to the box with a green ground screw.

Switch box #2: Remove all of the existing wires from the 3-way switch. The three-way switch will have 2 screws the same color (usually black) and 1 screw (usually brass). For this scenario, one of the black screws will _not_ be used.

Connect the Black wire in the 3-wire cable coming from switch #1, the Black wire going to the lights, and a short Black pigtail together under one wirenut. The pigtail is then connected to the brass screw on the 3-way switch. The Red wire in the 3-wire cable coming from switch #1 is connected to one of the 2 black screws on the 3-way switch (pick one).

In effect you are installing a single switch at switch box #2. In fact, you can use a regular single pole switch if you want too.

To finish, connect the White wire in the 3-wire cable coming from switch #1 to the White wire going to the lights.

Grounding is the same as switch #1 except you'll need a pigtail to connect to the green screw on the 3-way switch.

That's it. You may want to check the battery compartment in the switch/timer, as sometimes they put in a pullout plastic tab to keep it from being energized until needed.

Now, the E1210 is a different animal, and can only be used to replace a single pole switch. You could use it by basically passing the power through to switch box #2 from switch box #1 and then cover switch box #1 with a blank plate. The ST01 could be used that way too, in which case the black on the device connects to the hot, the blue to the lights, and the red on the device is not used, nor will the Red wire in the 3-wire cable between the switch boxes be used.
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