Shuts downs more often as it warms up. I disassembled the head housing and the handle switch housing. No broken wires or loose connections. With the unit UNPLUGGED, both the hot leg and neutral have continuity up to the circuit board. Hot leg has continuity commensurate with the position of the trigger switch. The neutral has no continuity across the circuit board. The hot leg and neutral feel firmly attached to the motor inside the housing.1- is there anything diagnostic I can do with the unit plugged into 120v that I haven't tried? 2- does the circuit board do anything useful other than regulate the 3 speeds?
SOURCE: Trying to replace 3 speed ceiling fan switch
Hello,
The black goes to the L connection the others are a guess. You can do this two ways. Connect the colored wires in any sequence and then see what switch sequence give you high and lowest, the other one will be medium. Once you determine that, mark the wires with a piece of masking tape as high, medium and low. Otherwise you connect them, turn power on and use a multimeter to see which color gives you the highest voltage and which gives you lowest. Since you aren't comfortable using live wires and a meter, go with the first option and use the process of elimination to find the wires giving you the speeds you need to find the highest and lowest. Next, you need to determine how your switch sequence works. First pull has to give you highest speed. so you may end up wiring them in reverse if your first attempt is backwards. There is a reason the first pull needs to be highest, it powers up the motor so you can then chose a lower setting. A low setting first will over tax your motor and wear it out eventually as it has to work harder at first.
Let me know if you need further clarification and perhaps this is all you need to get fixed.
Regards,
Worldvet
ps I checked on the Internet of a wiring diagram and I bet you did tok all to no avail.
SOURCE: 1/3 hp drill press motor runs hot and very slow.
Look instead at the motor and drill post bearings. Remove the belt to see if the motor runs correctly with no load. If it still hums and gets hot, check that the motor itself turns freely (when off). If the motor seems to be ok, turn the driven pulley by hand--it should also turn freely. The capacitor is usually a starting assist, not running. To test, wrap a small rope several turns (when pulled must turn in the normal direction) around the small motor pulley and pull smartly while turning the motor on. If it now comes up to speed, the capacitor has lost capacitance. Electronic parts suppliers like Jameco or Mouser have such items.
SOURCE: I'm using a Leviton 1755 combo 3 switch for a bath
remove white switch one and connect to incoming white ground--all whites should be connected [hooked] together these are grounds-- switch 1 black from fan ,leave switch 2 red from fan ,switch 3 vanity black
SOURCE: Low/High Switch wiring for Hayward Superpump
I do not read anywhere that you have a 230V DPDT switch which you will need in order to select the high or low speed. You will have 6 terminalas on the switch. Line connections usually go to the middle set. Put put sides of one pole to the common terminal and put one of the other posts to the hi and the other to the low terminal. I prefer to use am on-off-on switch so the switch in the middle turns off the pump. Flip it one way for hi and the other for low. If you post your stock number from the two-speed motor I could give you a more accurate diagram if you need it. Generally, 1 is common, 2 hi and 3/4 low.
SOURCE: Help with Woods 59018/59028 7 day digital timer
The usual connection for this type timer is the house black power to the timer black, the house white power to the timer white and the , the light black wire to the red timer wire.
If you only have two wires, one black and one white, at the switch location, then you cannot use this style timer , as it needs a neutral. You should return this timer and get one that does not require a neutral connection.
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