We installed the tank as the directions required, but none of the water ever flows from the internal tank to the external. The red "FULL" light goes on, and the external tank is installed, is there a type of sensor that must be switched on when the external tank is installed that we missed?
I recently encountered the same issue. First off, with the external tank installed is there an icon on the display panel indicating the tank is installed?
No? Then the two sensors are not picking up the magnets in the the "arms" on the back of the tank. It's a poor design for sure, on my unit the tank does not sit flush enough to the back of the AC, if I held the tank firmly to the back the icon would come on. I just used a bit of cardboard at the bottom of the support tray to press the tank firmly to the back of the AC.
Theory is as the external tank fills up, water will run into the "arms" and raise the magnets tripping the switch which tells the unit it needs emptying. But the magnets in the arms are not strong enough if they are not close enough to the sensors. So my cardboard solution lasted only one tank.
I ended up getting some flat neodymium magnets (that I scavenged out of a hard drive), and taped to the sensor that had the gap. I wouldn't recommend doing this to both sensors since it would eventually overfill, only one sensor needs to "trip" for the compressor to turn off.
If you answered yes to the first question (the bucket icon is there), then it's most likely the pump not working on the internal reservoir, or something related to that. Can't help you there...
1.) Are you sure that you have the external tank connector properly pushed into place - you'll feel or hear a click ("this connection is your sensor) ". If a proper connection is not made , it will block the water flow to the external tank and divert it back to the internal tank. 2.) Are you getting water in the INTERNAL tank? If not, check under the A/C for water (if it's on a carpet, you might not see it and will have to feel to see if the carpet is wet). There is an internal hose that leads to the external tank, if this hose leaks it will send the message that the External tank is connected , when in fact although it's connected, the water is not getting there. Therefore water will continue to try to flow to the external tank. However; as the hose has a leak (is broken - "not uncommon"), the water will not reach the external tank, and will drip onto the base (floor panel) of the A/C; and after time will find its way through an opening (usually around one of the wheels), to the floor; and, as I previously stated; you won't notice if it's on carpet. Hope this helps K.S. NOTE: The QUICK CONNECTOR Danby has installed on these units , (to my mind) is not user friendly and as a result it creates a problem for the average home user to connect. This results in undue stress on the above referred to internal hose; which, can lead to breakage of the hose or leaking connections.
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If you are losing coolant then you have either an external or internal leak. If you can find no indication of an external leak from the radiator, the radiator overflow tank, any of the hoses on the system or around the water pump fitting then you may well have an internal leak. Check the radiator overflow tank carefully and the hoses to it for any signs of external leakage.
An internal leak of coolant can be via a failed cylinder head gasket or a crack in the cylinder head or both. Coolant can then leak under pressure into the cylinders or into the engine's lubrication system and will then mix with the oil. Check the condition and colour of your oil for evidence of coolant contamination. Check your exhaust for a constant flow of white exhaust emissions which is evidence of coolant entering the combustion chamber.
If you have run the vehicle with the engine overheating this will generally cause failure of the cylinder head gasket and possibly a crack in the cylinder head.
Other than a leaking 4 way selector valve the probable cause would be a leaking check valve in the pump.
On the RV the city water and discharge from the fresh water pump are tied together. When on city water the discharge of the pump will have city water pressure on it. If the internal check valve on the pump is leaking, water will flow through the pump backwards and into your fresh water tank.
Typically this requires ether replacing the pump or installing a secondary check valve between the fresh water tank and the pump suction.
(M) Check Engine Light ("Malfunction Indicator Light" or "Check Engine") will illuminate during engine operation if this Diagnostic Trouble Code was recorded (depending if required by CARB and/or EPA). MIL is displayed as an engine icon on the instrument cluster.
Ignition Coil A Primary/Secondary Circuit
Peak primary circuit current not achieved with maximum dwell time.
Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (medium leak)
A 0.040 leak has been detected in the evaporative system. (A faulty gas cap may cause this code). Also see TSB 25-001-02A. Note: The respective Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures Manual will direct the technician to determine if the vehicle evaporative system has an external system leak. Examples of some external system leaks are: a loose gas cap, a disconnected evaporative system hose, or a loose hose connection. Remember that the evaporative system may also have an internal system leak. This internal leak may be caused by an intermittent or permanently stuck open Duty Cycle Purge (DCP) valve. This leak source is considered to be internal because any escaping emissions enter into the engine system and not directly into the atmosphere, unlike an external leak. An internal leak may cause one of the above DTC?s. Possible causes of a stuck open (intermittent or permanent) DCP valve are: 1. Corrosion due to system moisture or possible water intrusion into the system.
Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (large leak)
A large leak has been detected in the evaporative system. See TSB 25-001-02. Also, possible faulty or loose gas cap. Note: The respective Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures Manual will direct the technician to determine if the vehicle evaporative system has an external system leak. Examples of some external system leaks are: a loose gas cap, a disconnected evaporative system hose, or a loose hose connection. Remember that the evaporative system may also have an internal system leak. This internal leak may be caused by an intermittent or permanently stuck open Duty Cycle Purge (DCP) valve. This leak source is considered to be internal because any escaping emissions enter into the engine system and not directly into the atmosphere, unlike an external leak. An internal leak may cause one of the above DTC?s. Possible causes of a stuck open (intermittent or permanent) DCP valve are: 1. Corrosion due to system moisture or possible water intrusion into the system.
For a pH of 6.0 to 6.9 a type of naturally occurring calcium carbonate media called Calcite is used to neutralize the pH. For water with a pH of less than 6.0, magnesium oxide is blended with Calcite to bring the pH to 7.0 or above. The Calcite or the blend of media is put in either an up-flow neutralizer tank or a down-flow neutralizer tank.
Acid neutralizer water systems are typically installed after the well pressure tank.
In down-flow neutralizer tanks the media flows from the top of the media inside a vertical filter tank down to the bottom of the tank, and up a distributor tube and out of the filter to the household piping. Down-flow neutralizer tanks also act as filters since sediment and other fine particles become trapped in the Calcite. This type of neutralizer is automatically or manually backwashed to keep the media clean.
In an upflow neutralizer the water flows down through the center distributor tube and enters the media bed at the bottom and flows up through the media before exiting the neutralizer and flowing out to the plumbing. Up-flow neutralizers do not get backwashed because the media is never compacted and no sediment is removed. Since the water is flowing up through the media the media is not compacted to theoretically it does not require backwashing.
There are advantages and disadvantages to both up-flow and down-flow neutralizers. The main advantage of the down-flow neutralizer is that it not only neutralizes the water, it also acts as a whole house sediment filter. Down-flow neutralizers are usually automatically backwashed, which cleans the Calcite media and prevents rust particles and other sediment from fouling or coating the media. Since additional Calcite or blended media must be added to most neutralizers once or twice a year, down-flow neutralizers are easier to backwash and put back in service than up-flow neutralizers which cannot be backwashed.
Up-flow neutralizers must use an internal top screen in to order to prevent the Calcite from entering the home plumbing system. Calcite has the appearance of white sand and can quickly damage valves and fixtures if the media enters the plumbing system. If the water contains iron, manganese or sulfides, these internal top screens can later become fouled and so are generally are not used for this reason. Instead of the internal top screen, a filter housing and cartridge filter are usually installed after the up-flow neutralizer tank to prevent any mineral from flowing into the plumbing system. AdChoices With down-flow neutralizers these upper screens or external filter housings are unnecessary since the Calcite is prevented from leaving the filter tank due to the bottom internal distributor screen. The bottom distributor does not get easily fouled due to the backwashing the down-flow neutralizer tank receives on a regular basis.
In filter tanks the media can flow around the media and create channels which allow the water to flow without properly contacting the media. This type of channeling is more of a problem with up-flow neutralizers and rarely happens with down-flow neutralizers due to the action of the backwash. For most residential applications down-flow neutralizers work better than up-flow neutralizers due to the filtration feature and the backwashing function.
A down-flow neutralizer can be backwashed on a regular basis to clean, re-classify and distribute the calcium media thoroughly. This backwashing allows the down-flow neutralizer to function properly and lower maintenance costs. The Calcite media dissolves better because it is cleaned and then compacted in the down-flow neutralizer tank.
Well water that is acidic can also sometimes be high in iron, manganese or hydrogen sulfide. If a greensand or other type of manganese media iron filter is used to treat the water for iron, the pH should be raised up to at least 6.8 to allow the iron filter media to work properly. A down-flow neutralizer is usually the best choice to put in front of an iron filter because the neutralizer acts as a pre-filter removing some oxidized iron prior to the iron filter. This lessens the load of iron that the greensand filter must treat. Iron, manganese and sulfides can coat the acid neutralizer media and render it unable to dissolve into the water and neutralize the pH.
There are some applications where up-flow Calcite neutralizers are more desirable than down-flow neutralizers. If the flow is more or less constant on a regular basis, such as when the neutralizer is used to fill a holding tank with neutralized water, the up-flow filter works fine. Since up-flow neutralizers have no automatic backwash control valve they are less expensive than down-flow neutralizers. If the water is of excellent quality with no sediment or iron and the flow rate is constant then the up-flow neutralizer costs less to use and uses no backwash water.
You have another plugged filter. That is why you ice cubes are hollow, the water is flowing so slowly into the ice maker, it does not fill up.
Recommend you install an external filter somewhere in the feeder line that connects to the rear of the refrigerator. The are surprisingly inexpensive, compared to the filter inside the new 'fridges. I recommend you buy a replacement external filter cartridge at the same time you buy the external filter kit. Of course you will need to change the internal filter one more time or bypass it per any instructions provided with your fridge.
You need to empty the water in the tanks, there are two one is external the other is internal if you do not have the external tank attached do so and with the unit of, then turn the unit on and put it in cool mode and watch for the water to drain if this does not work emty the water from the scre holes with the unit unplugged and drain it outside you will need leverage as it will need a slight tilt to do so.
Hope that helps..
If it leaks while filling it is likely any of the several fittings or it may be the 3 port check valve attached to the incomming water line. These are routinely installed backward. The idea is that when hooked to an external water supply the water goes only to the faucet and when using the tank, water can only go from the tank to the faucet. You cannot be hooked to external water and use the tank.
Any cracks in the tank should be obvious.
Use teflon plumbers tape on all screw fittings or will leak for sure. Hose clamps are also a necessity.