Question about Kenmore Refrigerators
I also have a Kenmore Coldspot and the defrost drain keeps plugging up every few months. I have removed ice around it (from the back of the freezer section) and poured hot water down and it seems to just keep freezing up again - this time it froze within a week. Mine is a model 69207990. Do I need a drain heat kit? Thanks.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
probably the easiest fix for this is install a drain probe to transfer heat from the defrost heater into the drain hole to prevent ice build up. take a peice of 10 or 12 guage solid copper wire and wrap one end around the defrost heater pretty tight and put the other end down in the drain line 2-4 inches.
Posted on Dec 15, 2007
In most cases you can easily solve this problem.
step one would be to make sure your freezer is getting cold enough. If you have icecream in your freezer is it frozen solid or is it soft. Most icemakers cycle around 0 degrees and if your freezer is not getting to 0 then it will not cycle and it will not make ice.
Step two would be to make sure you icemake is cycling. To do this simply lift the little shut off arm on your icemaker and wait about an hour then go back to the icemaker and drop the arm down. The icemaker should start going through a cycle. You should notice the arm slowly begin to raise and the ice dispencer fingers will begin to turn. Then you will hear it call for water. You may hear a humm.
If the freezer is cold enough and the icemaker is cycling that only leaves the inlet valve. replace the valve and enjoy the ice.
If the freezer is cold enought and the icemaker does not cycle, then you have a bad icemaker. Simply replace the icemaker and viola.
Third if the freezer is not cold enought 0 defrees. Then you may have a defrost problem. In this case post more info and I will be happy to help. Good luck email@example.com
Posted on Apr 30, 2008
We suggest u to perform the following checks to solve ur problem...
Posted on Apr 08, 2009
Wake up one morning and Boom no ice left in the bin. What happened and What can I do to fix it without calling someone? Some ice makers will get a piece of ice in the wrong place and jam the extraction. Get a hair dryer and heat up the ice maker to release the fouled ice cube and that baby will start going. No water in ice mold?Do this easy test: pour some water in the ice maker mold and wait. If it kicks out a batch, but it has no water in it, most likely the water valve is bad. Watervalve for SxS box Since it is the cheapest part and you can do it yourself replace it. If it turns out you need a new ice maker then you have a new water valve already to go with it. What if the ice maker has ice in it but won't harvest any? One cheap and easy item for the do it yourselfer to replace is the ice mold thermostat. Check for voltage between T and H if you have 120 volts then the bi-metal (inside that ice mold thermostat) is bad. If it's good you will have 0 volts. Ice mold thermostat Located in the plastic housing and seated against the ice mold is that thermostat. This looks intimidating but is easily fixed by anybody who could change a spark plug. There is no wiring. One more thing to look for: You can put a jumper between L and V and this will activate the watervalve. Have rags ready! If you are a cheapskate and want to be frugal and not buy a new ice maker or a new head(brain) modular crescent ice maker you may want to remove the main gear and clean the copper plate behind it. That plate gets dirty and won't allow for a good contact with the water valve connection and does not power up the valve...Shhh! They will all be doing it! Modular crescent Icemaker test points: With NO power to the icemaker, and ice ejection fingers in the freeze position: Your ohm meter should read 8800 ohms between L and M, and 72 ohms between L and H. With power ON to the ice maker: If meter reads 0 volts between L and N you have no power to the ice maker. If the meter reads 120 volts then you have power to the ice maker. If you have 0 volts between L and H heater is off if you have 120 between L and H the heater should be ON. If you have 0 power between L and M the motor is off. If you have 120 between L and M then the motor should be ON. If you have 0 volts between T and H the thermostat is closed If the meter reads 120 between T and H then the thermostat is OPEN. If the voltage is 0 between N and V the water valve is closed. If the meter reads 120 water should be filling the mold.
Posted on Nov 11, 2009
I believe you just described a defrost condensate blockage that is causing the leaking. There are many reasons for this happening for example water leaking from a water supply line for the dispenser or ice maker, a in the defrost pan, water leaking and draining through the refrigerator cabinet, but most are caused by a defrost drain line blockage. Below is a link that may be helpful so try to take it all in and use the parts that most refer to your specific problem, Thanks Sea Breeze
Posted on Nov 19, 2009
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