SOURCE: Philips MMS 460 Computer subwoofer problem
Found it.....
Replaced the 1.5Amp 12v Reg with a 3Amp 12v and heatsink...also replace all the electrolitics in the same area. Reasoning being gone leaky due to hot heasink.
Remember to Silicon the heatsink down afterwards as it rattles if you dont!!!!
SOURCE: subwoofer isn't working
If your wire connections are normal then the problem is due your woofer speaker. Its your subwoofer circuit error and must be repair thru replacing the damaged Component in the circuit
SOURCE: Subwoofer thumping when turn on
Your subwoofer is not getting enough power, or it is grounding out due to a bad connection. What is powering the subwoofer? You might want to consider buying an AC to DC power inverter and a car amplifier to power your subwoofer. You connect the AC/DC inverter to your amp the same way you would in your car (+) to (+) and (-) to (-). The only other thing you will have to do is run the remote wire to the (+) on the amp. You can buy the AC/DC inverter at radioshack for $49.99, and all you really would need is a 200watt max amplifier and that would cost you about $10-$20.00 for a cheap one.
SOURCE: Thump at the time of shutoff
The amplifier in the sub as with any other amplifier has a capacitor in it. Essentially a battery that holds a charge. When you trun things off such as subs or amps with a powerstrip instead of the intended on off button, the power supply has been cut, but the capacitor is still energizing the unit. So it catches the noise in the line.
SOURCE: subwoofer makes loud popping crackle intermittently
im having the exact same problem thinking it was the amp i rigged up a different driver,the amp was fine.i knew the driver wasnt gone and after some looking and testing i got it down to wire mesh(i think a dust sheild,something)inside which was slightly rubbing on the coil,it worked fine loud when it was warm but cold there was bursts of bad feed back noises.
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