First my heating element went out and I replaced it, then the dryer ran for a day and then the thermal fuse went out, replced it and the dryer ran for 2 cycles and now the drum will not spin again, I assume it is the therma fuse again, however I do not know what is causing it to fail. The dryer is about 18 months old and is very clean and nothing is blocking the fan, any suggestions? Thanks,
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Re: Thermal Fuse keep failing
Fuse and element failure is related to lack of air passing over the element. The drum and fan should run even if the heater is inoperative. Find out what is stopping them, then work on heat. If motor is running, there should be air flow--pull vent hose from wall outlet--should be brisk air flow. If not, remove the lint screen and check again. If now ok, soak the lint screen in hot water and detergent. If drum does not turn, check the drive belt and if it sits properly on motor pulley.
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A vent clogged with lint can cause the dryer to overheat. Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on air fluff/no heat, and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system. If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly. Please take time to rate me Bud
Hi Janet Douglas Check to make sure your vent is clear, this can cause the overheat problem and blow the thermal fuse. Also check to make sure the blower is not full of lint also as this can cause the same problem you are having happen. Another thought: Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on air fluff/no heat, and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system. If the vent's clogged, that new element and thermal can burn out very quickly. Please take time to rate me Bud
If this is a Whirlpool ELECTRIC dryer, you have a Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) and a Thermal Fuse. Do not confuse the two of them.
The TCO is mounted on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the Heating Element terminals. There is another component mounted on the heater box adjacent to the TCO known as the "Hi-Limit" Thermostat. If either of these components fails, the dryer will still ru, but will not heat. In addition, if either of these components fail, you must replace the two of them at the same time to avoid premature failure. They are commonly sold as a set.
The Thermal Fuse is located on the air blower housing. It is a small plastic component with two wire leads. There is another component mounted adjacent to it known as the "Internal Bias Thermostat". If the Thermal Fuse fails, the dryer will not run at all.
To access any of these components will depend on how the dryer is configured. BASIC RULE OF THUMB:
If the lint screen filter is on the TOP of the dryer, the heating and blower assembly components are located in the REAR of the dryer. You will need to remove the back panel for access.
If the lint screen filter is located in the DOOR, the heating and blower assembly components are under the drum and accessed by lifting the top panel and removing the front panel of the dryer.
If you have any questions, please post back with a MODEL NUMBER, so that I may be able to determine how your dryer is configured. I hope this helps you.
It is possible that your dryer isn't heating because its heating element is defective. Heating elements are irrepairable. If yours has ceased to function properly, you will have to replace it. Open your dryer's cabinet and locate the heating element so that you can test it.
Another possible cause for a dryer not heating up could be attributed to a faulty thermal fuse. Once a dryer's thermal fuse has blown, it is no longer of any use. If your dryer's fuse is blown, you will have to replace it. Open up your dryer's cabinet and locate its thermal fuse so that you can test it.
If any of your dryer's thermostats have become defective, they could be the reason that your dryer is not heating. Open up your dryer's cabinet and test each of your dryer's thermostats. If any are faulty, replace them.
A defective timer motor could also cause your dryer to not heat up. Test your dryer's timer motor. If it is no longer functioning as it should, replace either the entire motor assembly, or just its motor.
If your thermal fuse keeps popping, you may want to ensure you have the vent cleaned out, you may have some sort of restriction somewhere in either the duct,
or the machine. As you know the thermal fuse, protects the machine from over heating.
Check that you have the proper voltage to the machine,
Ohm out the heating element to ensure you have voltage right there, then ohm out your Cycle t-stat, it may not be working right either.
You either have a bad element or thermal fuse. Most likely a thermal fuse. You can access it by removing the back panel. If you find that it's the thermal fuse, you will need to replace the cycling thermostat also. When it goes out, the dryer then cycles off of the thermal fuse until it goes bad.
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Thermal fuse , is the small white plastic piece on the blower box . That , keeps the dryer from running . Thermal cut-off , is the small thermostat on the burner (element) box , which would keep the dryer from heating .
your cycling thermostat needs changed too. the thermal fuse is your last safety measure that goes, which means your cycling thermostat is not shutting down the heat element once it detects the right temp hot air in the blower housing so it let the heat element glow until either the high-limit sensor shuts the heat down or the thermal fuse blows. Change the cycling thermostat and good luck
If the thermal fuse and thermostat are bad,something is causing them to overhea,t before tackling the heating element, you should check all connections to the stat and fuse as a loose connexion could be the cause of the over heating.