Question about Whirlpool LER5636P Electric Dryer

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Thermal Fuse keep failing

First my heating element went out and I replaced it, then the dryer ran for a day and then the thermal fuse went out, replced it and the dryer ran for 2 cycles and now the drum will not spin again, I assume it is the therma fuse again, however I do not know what is causing it to fail. The dryer is about 18 months old and is very clean and nothing is blocking the fan, any suggestions? Thanks,


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  • s_rich_smith Aug 01, 2009

    The crazy thing is that I have heat but the blower and drum are not working and that seems like a big fire hazard, do you agree? Everything worked great last night after I changed the thermal fuse, but then it failed again and all I had was heat. So I know the motor and belt are working. Should I try cleaning the lint screen, could that really be the problem?

  • s_rich_smith Aug 01, 2009

    Okay, I got a new thermal fuse and everything comes on okay, however it appears the heating element get way to hot and gets hot even if I put it on air only, any idea what could be causing this? Thanks for your help, Rich.

  • s_rich_smith Aug 03, 2009

    I did buy the dryer used, however it is only 2 years old at most, so I doubt the wiring has been modified and it does not look as if it has been. For some reason, not matter what I do I can not get the heat to turn off. I have tried running it on air only and in cool down mode and the heat is still on, any idea what is causing that or is it time to call a repair man? By the way, the air flow is great. Thanks!

  • s_rich_smith Aug 05, 2009

    I have changed the Thermal Cut-Off, the operating thermostat, the thermal fuse and the hi limit thermostat and the heating element still come on even when it is on air only. I have checked all the wiring and everything is connected correctly. Do I have a problem in the control panel and is it time to scrap it?





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Fuse and element failure is related to lack of air passing over the element. The drum and fan should run even if the heater is inoperative. Find out what is stopping them, then work on heat. If motor is running, there should be air flow--pull vent hose from wall outlet--should be brisk air flow. If not, remove the lint screen and check again. If now ok, soak the lint screen in hot water and detergent. If drum does not turn, check the drive belt and if it sits properly on motor pulley.

Posted on Aug 01, 2009

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  • drallim Aug 02, 2009

    Fire hazard is correct! You need to disable the heat by removing the wiring from the heater connections and tape the wire ends. Check for air flow from the flex hose wall connection end as previously described. If the flow is weak, remove the lint filter and retry. If now much better, then clean the filter screen as before. I don't understand why the drum and blower (the motor) quit when the thermal fuse blows. It should just shut off the heat. Has the wiring been modified for some reason? Air-only should shut off the heat, but doesn't. More wiring problems? If there is a relay which turns the heater on and off, it may have stuck contacts--same thing if the controller runs the heater directly.

  • drallim Aug 03, 2009

    I read somewhere on this site that wiring diagrams are in the control panel. Check this out. I can't help but feel that someone has been playing with the wiring. Why was this 'second-hand'? If there is no wiring diagram in the machine, you need to buy a service manual which has one (from your appliance parts folks) (about $20 to $30). I'm afraid that you would be bled to death if you call a service person. The point of a thermal fuse is to prevent overheating, not make it worse. If someone replaced the timer unit, the wiring could have been fouled up then. If you can find a copy of the diagram on the web, let me know. The first time that you replaced the thermal fuse, did it look original? There should be a thermostat near the heaters that controls overall heat. Hang in there!

  • drallim Aug 05, 2009

    Can you check with the former owner whether the control unit was replaced? Open up the control panel and check the wiring--is it all one or more plugs or a mass of individual connections? If the control unit has been replaced, I'd suspect wiring mis-connections unless the thing has wiring plugs. Otherwise, the control unit has welded-together contacts for the heating element. You can take the control unit apart, but things tend to spring out!! Have you located a wiring diagram? Time to quit? That depends on how much you value your own time. I will continue with this as long as you want to keep going.



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Whirlpool dryer bad heating element AGAIN

Hi Warren Fink
Try this solution to your problem

A vent clogged with lint can cause the dryer to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on air fluff/no heat, and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
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Hi Janet Douglas
Check to make sure your vent is clear, this can cause the overheat problem and blow the thermal fuse.
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Another thought:
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on air fluff/no heat, and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
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If this is a Whirlpool ELECTRIC dryer, you have a Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) and a Thermal Fuse. Do not confuse the two of them.

The TCO is mounted on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the Heating Element terminals. There is another component mounted on the heater box adjacent to the TCO known as the "Hi-Limit" Thermostat. If either of these components fails, the dryer will still ru, but will not heat. In addition, if either of these components fail, you must replace the two of them at the same time to avoid premature failure. They are commonly sold as a set.

The Thermal Fuse is located on the air blower housing. It is a small plastic component with two wire leads. There is another component mounted adjacent to it known as the "Internal Bias Thermostat". If the Thermal Fuse fails, the dryer will not run at all.

To access any of these components will depend on how the dryer is configured. BASIC RULE OF THUMB:

If the lint screen filter is on the TOP of the dryer, the heating and blower assembly components are located in the REAR of the dryer. You will need to remove the back panel for access.

If the lint screen filter is located in the DOOR, the heating and blower assembly components are under the drum and accessed by lifting the top panel and removing the front panel of the dryer.

If you have any questions, please post back with a MODEL NUMBER, so that I may be able to determine how your dryer is configured. I hope this helps you.

Feb 20, 2010 | Whirlpool Dryers

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My dryer does not heat. Fuse, thermostats, heat element all have continuity, power chord is good, 240v at plugin... stumped. It is a model # LER4634BQ1 Whirlpool SN# ME4471484

dryer_heating-element.jpg Heating Element

It is possible that your dryer isn't heating because its heating element is defective. Heating elements are irrepairable. If yours has ceased to function properly, you will have to replace it. Open your dryer's cabinet and locate the heating element so that you can test it.
dryer_thermal-fuse.jpg Thermal Fuse

Another possible cause for a dryer not heating up could be attributed to a faulty thermal fuse. Once a dryer's thermal fuse has blown, it is no longer of any use. If your dryer's fuse is blown, you will have to replace it. Open up your dryer's cabinet and locate its thermal fuse so that you can test it.
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If any of your dryer's thermostats have become defective, they could be the reason that your dryer is not heating. Open up your dryer's cabinet and test each of your dryer's thermostats. If any are faulty, replace them.
dryer_timer.jpg Timer motor

A defective timer motor could also cause your dryer to not heat up. Test your dryer's timer motor. If it is no longer functioning as it should, replace either the entire motor assembly, or just its motor.

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