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Dual referigator 650. Freezer works but referigator is not getting cold?

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Open the freezer and listen for the evaporator fan. This circulates the cold air from the freezer into the fresh food section. If this is not running you need to check for power to it. If the fan has power to it but not running, replace it. It should be located behind freezers back wall inside of freezer near top.You may have to hold the door switch closed for it to come on. If you dont hear the fan running then you probably need a new fan motor ...
If the fan is working, look at the back wall of the freezer. If you see a thick coat of frost, you probably have a problem with the defrost system.

Sounds like a defrost problem to me though. Check to see if there is any frost buildup in the back wall of the freezer. If so, it is not defrosting as it should.

  • possible causes:
  1. bad defrost timer
  2. bad defrost heater
  3. bad defrost thermostat
If you don’t know what these are then unplug the machine and let the ice melt in the freezer overnight with the door open. Then try it the next day, if is cooling fine then you need to have a service person replace one of the above items.

first we ll see how u need to check the defrost timer....
Before testing the defrost timer, unplug the freezer to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
A mechanical defrost timer controls the defrost cycle of the appliance. In older models, the timer runs continuously and roughly every six hours, shuts off power to the cooling system and sends power to the defrost heater. In newer models the timer advances only when the compressor or defrost cycle is running - an improvement for efficiency. As the timer advances, power to the heating element shuts off and power is restored to the cooling system. If the timer does not advance, the appliance will be stuck either in defrost or refrigerate mode, resulting in, respectively, no cooling or frost build-up.
The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill of the freezer. It may also be found behind a cover plate inside the freezer, in the temperature control console, or behind the freezer near the compressor.
To test whether the defrost timer is simply failing to advance, locate the advance screw and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. This advances it to the next mode. If it was cooling before, it is now in defrost mode. Simply wait about 35 minutes and check whether it has left defrost mode and has resumed cooling (listen for the compressor). If it does not advance, the timer motor is probably bad and the entire timer needs to be replaced. If it advances as it should, then you can follow the steps below to test the switch electrically.
The timer is usually held in place with one or more screws. Remove the screws and gently pull the timer out far enough to disconnect the wiring connector. The connector can be removed by firmly pulling and rocking it left and right. It is not necessary to note the position of the wires because the connector plug is keyed so that it can be replaced in only one way.


Dual referigator 650.  Freezer - e1180cd.jpg


Test the timer for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. The timer has four terminals. Locate the common terminal, it should be labeled "3" or "C". If the terminals are not labeled, determine which terminal coincides with the common wire in the connector plug; it is usually the white wire.
Once you have located the common terminal, touch one probe to it. Touch the other probe to each of the three remaining terminals. The multitester should display a reading of zero or near to zero ohms (which indicates continuity) for one pair of the terminals and possibly two pairs. The third pair of terminals should show no continuity (infinity).
Locate the timer switch and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. Now retest the timer as you did above. One pair of terminals should indicate continuity (possibly two pairs). At least one pair should give a reading of infinity. Note however, one of the pairs that showed continuity in the first test should now read infinity and one pair that read infinity should now show continuity. If the defrost timer does not pass these tests, it is likely that it should be replaced.
* We have received two reports of cases in which only one pair of terminals shows continuity and when the timer is advanced, the same pair still shows continuity. For these isolated cases, this was reported to be the correct operation of the timer. At this time we have not been able verify this case. This may indicate a specific model or models that use a different wiring configuration than discussed in this article. Also, note that this article applies to mechanical defrost timer controls and not electronic or adaptive defrost controls.

Posted on Aug 01, 2009

  • SAM JAYANTH CHANDRASEKAR

    now we ll see how we need to check the defrost heater.....

    Before testing the defrost heater, again make sure u unplug the freezer to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
    The defrost heater is located at the back of the freezer. It may be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, ice maker and the rear or bottom inside panel of the freezer.
    The rear panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver.
    There are three primary types of defrost heater elements; exposed metal rod, metal rod covered with aluminum tape or a wire coil inside a glass tube. All three elements are tested in the same way.


    The heater is connected by two wires.Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.
    Test the heating element for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading somewhere between zero and infinity. If the reading is not between those two extremes the heating element should bereplaced.


    this is how u check the thermostat.....

    again Before testing the defrost thermostat, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock hazard. Some defrost systems use a thermostat (a bi-metal switch) to prevent the defrost heater from overheating. The switch is normally closed. During a defrost cycle, the defrost heater causes the metal alloy in the switch to warm and as it does it curls back and breaks the circuit. As the metal cools, it makes a circuit again and the defrost heater starts heating again (as long as the defrost timer is in the defrost cycle). A defective thermostat can prevent the defrost heater from coming on or allow it to overheat which could result in heat damage or fire.













    The panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver. On some older top freezers it is necessary to remove the plastic molding to access the freezer floor. Removal of that molding can be tricky -never force it. If you decide to remove it, you do so at your own risk - it is prone to breaking. Try warming it first with a warm, wet towel.

    The thermostat is connected by two wires. The wires are connected with slip on connectors or a wiring harness. Firmly pull the connectors or harness off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should bereplaced.
    Test the thermostat for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading of zero when the thermostat is cold and a reading of infinity when it is warm (40 to 90 degrees F depending on the model). If the thermostat does not pass this test it should be replaced.

  • SAM JAYANTH CHANDRASEKAR

    with regard to the parts incase u need a replacement..... check out the below link....

    http://www.repairclinic.com/


    ur intructions for replacing the heater.....

    Before replacing the defrost heater, unplug the freezer to avoid an electrical shock hazard. The defrost heater is located at the back of the freezer. It may be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, icemaker and the rear inside panel of the freezer.
    The rear panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver.

    There are three primary types of defrost heater elements; exposed metal rod, metal rod covered with aluminum tape or a wire coil inside a glass tube. All three elements are tested in the same way.
    The heater is connected by two wires. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.
    Depending upon the type of defrost heater, it is held in place with clips or some other method. Remove the old heater. If your heater has a glass tube, do not touch the replacement with your bare fingers. Skin oil from your fingers will cause the heater to burn hot, resulting in damage to the heater and/or your freezer. If you do touch it, clean with a clean cloth or paper towel and rubbing alcohol.
    Install the new defrost heater, reconnect the wires, replace any access panel you may have removed and plug in the freezer.




    and ur instructions for replacing the timer....

    Before replacing the defrost timer, unplug the freezer to avoid an electrical shock hazard. The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill of the freezer. It may also be found behind a cover plate inside the freezer, in the temperature control console, or behind the freezer near the compressor.

    The timer is usually held in place with one or more screws. Remove the screws and gently pull the timer out far enough to disconnect the wiring connector.
    The connector can be removed by firmly pulling and rocking it left and right. It is not necessary to note the position of the wires because the connector plug is keyed so that it can be replaced in only one way.
    Connect the wiring connector to the new timer, refasten the timer in place, replace the cover and plug in the freezer.

    if none of the above helps.... i suggest u contact ur manufacturer... cause at this point u ve made sure it needs a technicians help...


    if u feel i ve spent my time for u... kindly rate my service...

    good luck and have a nice day



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