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Re: need to put in new bearing, it is really starting
Bearing on new motor failed for some reason, Make sure the new one will last, check that all shields and water deflecters are in place and that pump seal is not leaking. New motor bearings should be sealed but water has a bad habit of getting into anytging we try to keep dry.
I recomend replacement of pump seal whenever pump is opened and impeller is removed, cheep insurance. Take your time and make sure everything is clean as it goes back together, don't lubricate the pump seal faces, the ceramic faces are designed to be self lubricating and anything (even fingerprint oils) on them can cause a leak.
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Must disassemble the pump from the motor. The impeller has RH threads so hold motor armature (do not damage it) and turn impeller CCW to remove it from end of shaft. Hold armature in left hand and rotate impeller with right hand, turning hand on impeller back toward your body, or top of impeller toward you. Don't know how else to describe it. Once you have the impeller off everything should come apart pretty easily. If impeller is really stuck, you will need to figure out how to hold it evenly all the way around without putting pressure on blades. Strap wrench, home made jig, something that can put more pressure on it than your hand. You may want to remove the motor field so that you can grasp the armature while removing the impeller, do this by removing the long screws from the end of the motor.
Gently pry, tap, slide, however you can, get the bearings off the armature shaft without damaging any parts attached to it like fans, or starter centrifugal weights. Those things can be removed if needed.
Put new bearings on by sliding over shaft and seating in place by driving against the center race only. Do not drive bearing on by striking the outer race to move the inner race, this will damage the bearing.
The bearings are in the motor itself. You can separate the motor from the wet end by removing the wet end. You can then remove the cap or cover on the back of the motor to expose the shaft. It may be a hex tool, a slotted tool, or 7/16 wrench that you'll need to hold the shaft while you spin off the impeller (you may need an impeller tool as well).
Once the impeller is off, you can remove the seal plate and the motor will be isolated. You can then remove the through bolts and proceed to replacing the bearings. You will most likely need to replace the shaft seal as well.
There are many tricks associated with doing this invasive of repair. I cannot cover every scenario you might encounter. Personally, when the bearings go bad, I usually replace the motor as it's usually a number of years old and all of the components will start to go bad including the windings. These motors run at high temperature and unless you've encountered a bad shaft seal that allowed water into the bearings, it may be worth replacing the entire motor. Just my thoughts. Hope it helps a little.
to answer the question "should the pump be replaced as well?)
there are a few things that can answer that question for us. What is the condition of the existing pump? How old is it? Can the impeller even be removed from the shaft without breaking it?
Basically to change the motor bearings you must remove the 10-16 screws on the wet end.
Remove the cap you just unscrewed.
remove the small 1" round shaft cap at the rear of the MOTOR. (on the electrical end) this should come out with just a flathead screwdriver. (if it bends a little its no big deal.)
Lock onto the shaft end we just uncovered with a LARGE flathead screwdriver.
While locked onto the shaft, turn the impeller counterclockwise until removed.
Note: some impellers have a set screw in the center of the impeller.If you have one, it is reverse thread and must be removed by turning clockwise.)
If you are unable to get the impeller off of the shaft, you might as well buy a whole new pump. These pumps are a few hundred dollars, but if you have to purchase a new motor, a new impeller, and a new shaft seal at the very least, then the cost is right up there with a new pump.
If you can remove the impeller, keep reading.
Next remove the (4) - 1/4" hex through bolts located on the motor at the electrical end.
With the impeller removed and the through bolts removed, the wet end should now seperate from the motor.
To remove the bearings, we must seperate the front faceplate from the motor housing by taking a large flathead screwdriver to the small flat notch in between the plate and the motor housing. Pry in small even incriments all the way around the plate to remove this safely.
Once this is done, the bearing can be removed. For this we need a good quality bearing puller (these can be expensive and if you dont own one this is another reason to buy a new pump.)
Lock the 2 arms of the bearing puller around the outside of the bearing, and lock the center pin on the shaft and turn clockwise to remove.
When installing the new bearing, use a piece of 3/4" metal electrical conduit about 6-8 inches inlegth.
Place the bearing on the shaft and fit the electrical conduit on top of it, making sure to only apply pressure to the RACE of the bearing (the inside track) tap lightly until the new bearing is in place.
Once this is done, reverse these instructions to reassemble.
Most likely the bearings on the motor are going out. 4 months is way too soon, but it is possible you got a lemon. Unfortunately I wouldn't expect the new one to last 12 years. It's possible but unlikely. You should however get at least a few years. If the shaft seal on the motor shaft between the impeller and seal plate failed then water can drip back along shaft and get into motor bearings. This will cause motor bearings to fail. Even if this is not the case the motor bearings can fail even though it is rare to do so within first year. I would contact the place you bought the pump from, or whoever installed it. It should have at least a one year warranty. If for whatever reason this motor is not covered under warranty and you have to replace it, I would consider rebuilding it. Normally I don't care for rebuilds, but if the motor is truly only 4 months old then rebuilding it would be a good option.
turn off power open access panel and check pump close water valves to pump and disconnect lines ckeck pump for debris that may be stuck in pump blocking impeller if clear than lube motor bearings and try moving impeller back and forth to free motor once free return and test pump
1 year mfgr warranty and a possible stuck impeller (from debris) or bad motor bearing(s)... You will need to disassemble the pump and inspect the impeller by rotating it and check the motor for a seized bearing and bad shaft seal. Replace both bearings and shaft seal may resolve the issue. If the motor and impeller spin freely, then you might have a bad motor start capacitor. Some motors have a mechanical governor that can get stuck on the high speed switch and the motor will not spin until that is repaired. These type of pumps require some knowledge and skill to overhaul. Seek professional assistance to prevent damage.
The impeller and or bearings are seized. You may have to force the impeller loose (breaking it to get the unit apart). See if you can obtain the bearings and impeller and shaft seal before attempting the overhaul. Be aware that the hardware attaching the motor to the pump housing may need lubrication before attempting to remove.
Need a little humor now and then, anyway it sounds like you have a pinion gear bearing that's noisy, they really howl when they get worn out, in order to change this bearing the rear end gears must be removed, new bearings should be installed on all parts, 4 total, the metal from the failed pinion bearing will ruin the rest of the bearings, might as well only do it once, also change the axle bearings and seals while you are in there.