8.5 washsmart top loader finishes one wash, then I have to turn the power off for about a minute before starting another wash. I can not do two washes after one another without turning power off

SOURCE: hoover 600mb 6.0 kg top load washing machine (not as below)

timer or timer module fault

SOURCE: samsung sw51asp top loader washing machine

I had the same problem and from bit of research dE probably means door error. It turns out to be the reed (magnetic) switch was not functioning properly so wasn't closing the circuit when the door is closed.
DO NOT DO THIS UNLESS YOU HAVE BASIC UNDERSTAND OF ELECTRICITY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Of you may really harm yourself.
To test if your problem is the reed switch then 1. Turn AC power OFF, unplug from wall 2. HAVE YOU TURNED THE POWER OFF? 3. Unscrew two visible screws on the back of the machine near the top 4. Take back lid off by pull up which will expose all the wires at the back 5. Put your head in the drum and look to the right under the edge you will see two wires (may be blue) connecting to a small rectangular grey unit (reed sw) 6. Follow the wires back to the back where all the wires are you will find there is a clip joiner - unplug it. 7. Use a multimeter (if you have one other wise skip to step 8) put the probes across the wires coming from the reed switch and you should find the circuit opens and closes as the washing machine lid is opened and closed. If it does not then pretty sure the reed switch is not working then follow step 8 to short it and test. 8. Another method is just to short the wires by jamming a wire across the connector that goes to the machine and NOT the connector to the reed switch This will bypass the reed switch detection so will always be a closed circuit. But since it still has a lever door open detection system it doesn't really matter.
Try a washing cycle to see if it has fixed the problem.
If you have the means then replace the broken reed switch by buying another one from your local shop.
If your problem with the dE error is not with the reed switch then it may be with the lever system which I have no experience with.

Samsun SW51ASP top loader washing machine dE error

SOURCE: Beko wma1510s washing machine dial problem

my beko wma 1510s will not spin and is heating up

SOURCE: my fisher and paykel top loader washing

Disconnect the washer for few minutes (5min) then connect it again and press cancel, before you start any cycle, good luck

SOURCE: I have a Kenmore 110-24642300 Top Loader washing

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.24642300&pathTaken=partSearch

and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Also see the Whirlpool / Kenmore Service Manual for these washers:

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

And the following for how to release the console, cabinet and pump, motor, transmission and tub.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=38167c09664cecf006774770a74cf9bc

DON'T BE ALARMED, THE ABOVE ARE REFERENCES AT THIS POINT. YOU CAN FIX IT. (THESE ARE RELATIVELY EASY TO FIX IF YOU TAKE YOUR TIME.)

The first thing to check is how well the tub is attached to the spin tube. Over time, the nut that holds the tub on may have worked loose. The description for how to pull the tub should help.

You don't have to buy a special spanner wrench ($20) to remove the spanner nut. I've used a short 10" pipe wrench (about $9.00 also good for cracking walnuts) hooked over one of the tabs on the spanner nut, tap the handle with a hammer and it should loosen.

Also, don't directly hit the drive block with a hammer. Use a short piece of wood under the drive block and tap up on the wood.

If the tub is firmly attached to the drive tube, the next thing to check is the drive tube itself to make sure that it's not broken. Pull it (following the illustrated instructions and the Service Manual) and check it. Also check the pads / springs for the brake.

NOW FOR THE FUN PART.

If the tub is fine and the drive tube is fine, the problem could be in the gearcase itself. (It's a messy but not difficult job)

There are two plastic cams within the gearcase that lift the agitator shaft out of the way when the washer goes into spin mode. If the cams are worn (they don't have to be broken) they may not lift the shaft high enough (about 1/16") out of the way.

Also see the following for how the transmission works and the whirlpool parts list for the commercial washers (although the consumer models use the same gearcase.)

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Basically whats happening is this.

When the washer goes into spin mode two plastic cams are forced together and raise a gear on the main agitator shaft that is supposed to keep the agitators from spinning. If the cams are worn (not necessarily broken) the gear doesn't lift high enough to completely disengage the agitators. We had the same problem. Ours was a major gear noise but a clicking could also be a symptom. A set of Whirlpool Agitate Cams (part number 62580/01) cost about $15.00.

It's a bit messy to fix (15 oz. of oil in the transmission) but very inexpensive.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators.

The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. A 1/2" socket extension works well.

You don't have to remove the drum.

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.

Pull the transmission, check the clutch bands and springs before going further. If they are worn, sears and Whirlpool have replacement spring / band kits. If they are fine, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft.

Remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 15 Oz of 80-90 weight gear oil. (Available at auto parts stores)


Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

I'd also check the Motor Coupler (a $15.00 item that tends to wear) while you have the transmission out.


The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)