SOURCE: Whirlpool Ice Magic Plus not make ice at all.
The most likely cause is the water solenoid behind the fridge. Take an ohm meter and test across the two terminals and it should NOT ohm out(beep). If it does not ohm out I would replace the P.C. Board kit, emitter & receiver icemaker control.
SOURCE: ICE WITH PLASTICS TRAY
the cubes that come out of most plastic trays are alot larger than the cubes harvested by the icemaker. these cubes can jam and cause the bucket to break. if you can find plastic trays that have smaller cubes it would probably work ok..peyton
SOURCE: when I switch it on
The best solution on earth!!!
the same thing happened to me. all you do is press the eject button until it turns yellow. when that happens, immediately unplug the ac cord, & plug it back in. repeat this process until the light stays green! trust me, it works. it saves alot of money too if your warranty has ran out
SOURCE: Hi. Please help, I have
Sounds like a typical communication error between power supply and main microprocessor, resulting in the unit continuously reverting to standby with no other functions accessible. In this case, the power supply has several faulty/leaky components (no shorts or there would be no clock display at all). Always a good idea to target the PSU in these units first, to eliminate any suspects before diving into the microprocessor (which, I might add, is a high-density surface-mounted IC with pins on all 4 sides and it is glued as well as soldered to the main board).
In the PSU, it is possible many electrolytic capacitors have gone funny, bulged, or leaked. Check and replace ALL caps as required; not just a couple, and check the IC regulator (IC1 is usually a problematic device in many DVD recorders). This IC is usually prefixed with STRxxxx (where x represents its type number) and is a 5-pin standard device. This is obtainable as a part. The cost will depend where you get it from.
If you are not tech. savvy, I suggest you submit the unit to an authorised service centre, for a quote, and a second opinion (on the likely causes and/or how many components are involved in the fault as well as economics of the overall repair), then make a decision afterwards, whether it's worth fixing or not. Up to you, but be warned, it could be an expensive exercise either way.
SOURCE: is my computer in standby mode?
Your computer is not in standby mode - it is failing its own POST (Power-On Self Test), OR its passing the POST, and tries to boot from BIOS, but then fails (possibly due to a RAM error). Both of these scenarios will cause a failure of the system to boot. Since the tower stays on, it looks like your power supply is good, but the system motherboard has a problem.
The failure of the system to boot is what puts the monitor (not the computer) into standby mode - it gets a signal for a few seconds of the POST (or while attempting to boot out of BIOS), then when the system fails to boot, the monitor sees no signal from the system, and responds by going into standby mode.
Summary: you have a good monitor, and good tower power supply.
Your problem is isolated to the motherboard - either the motherboard circuitry itself, or the (replaceable) RAM installed on the motherboard.
What to try: If you have 2 memory boards, the one in Bank 0 may have developed a fatal error causing the failure of the system to boot. Remove the Bank 0 memory board and try to boot the system with the other memory board only. Note - Bank 0 must be occupied for the system to boot, so you must remove the memory board in Bank 1 and place it into the Bank 0 memory slot for the test.
Its also possible that the RAM board in Bank 0 has developed a little dust or corrosion on one of its leads, and by simply reseating the RAM board your system might be fixed. Once you remove RAM boards (and while you're still strapped to your systems frame ground by your wrist strap), clean away any dust from the RAM boards, and use a clean pencil eraser to gently shine up the small/delicate contacts on the RAM boards. Using a can of compressed air, also blow out the memory slots on the motherboard.
If your desktop still fails to boot, either (1) both of your RAM boards have simultaneously developed fatal errors (unlikely), or (2) your motherboard has failed (and both of your memory boards are likely still good).
Note also that touching static electricity-sensitive CMOS RAM boards must be done using proper static control techniques - to prevent destroying the RAM with small static charges (which cannot be felt) from your hands. A standard anti-static wrist strap alligator-clipped to the Acer Aspire X3400 chasis frame ground will suffice.
Here's a link to the Acer Aspire X3400 support center:
http://support.acer.com/acerpanam/desktop/2010/acer/Aspire/AspireX3400/AspireX3400nv.shtml
Here you'll find:
1) Software Information
2) Product Views
3) Specifications
4) Guides and Manuals
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