Question about Centerpoint Technologies CenterPoint Adventure Class 3-9x40mm Riflescope with Adjustable Objective a

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Elevation is set at lowest setting and i'm still

Scope elevation is set at lowest setting and I'm still about 1" above target at 30'. I am using a center point 3 x 9 x 40 scope on a Benjamin Elite Power Master .177 cal pellet gun with a pellet velocity of 1500' per second. I want to become proficent at adjusting the scope for small game. Thank you in advance to any suggestions.

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  • Anonymous Mar 31, 2014

    I need a replacement rear sight

  • Anonymous Mar 31, 2014

    I need to purchase a rear sight for my HW 30
    Weihrauch pellet gun cal.4.5 (177)


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You can try to add a small shim such as one piece of black vinyl tape under the scope in the front mount this will cause your point of impact to go down and give you more adjustment for the up direction. worked fine for me on a .22

Posted on Aug 09, 2009

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2 Answers

How to use redfieeld 3x9x42 scope

Depends on the scope and rifle type to which it is attached.
I invested in an inexpensive laser bore such as this one for an AR: SightMark AccuDot Laser Bore Sight - 223 Model SM39001 (for AR-15)
Once the scope is mounted properly, and assuming you have not made any vertical or horizontal adjustments, set the rifle on a stable platform, insert the bore sight, point it at a target 50 (rimfire) to 100 (AR) yards out (works best in low light situation).
Once you have the laser centered on your target, make elevation and windage adjustments as necessary placing the scope cross hairs over the laser. Remove the bore sight and fire 3 rounds, then fine tune elevation and windage.

Dec 27, 2014 | Optics

1 Answer

I have an omark 44 drilled and tapped for scope have fitted a nighteater 8-32x44FC scope which runs out of elevation adjustment at 600 meters target,i want to shoot to 800 meters target,what can i do.

all you can do to raze the point of aim is to jack up the eye end of the scope with 35mm film strips or some thin shims,,,three strips of film will pick up the point of aim by miles

Nov 30, 2010 | Weaver 1" Rifle Scope Mount Rings 49719...

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Very blury above 10 x no mater how i ajust it and hard to veiw target nikon 8426 6- 24x50 bdc brand new

If you are trying to focus at a relatively close distance, you may be overpowering the scopes ability to focus at that distance. Most rifle scopes are set to parralax free at 100 yards.You can see this effect by putting the scope on its lowest power, focusing at 25-50 yards, and then increasing the power setting. You will see the image go out of focus as the power increases. This simply means that you must shoot at longer distances in order to use the scope to its full potential.

The other problem may be your parallax adjustment, but you may have already tried that solution.If not, make sure that the adjustment dial is set at the distance you are trying to shoot (minor adjustment from the indicated setting may be required to fine tune the image).

Oct 22, 2010 | Nikon 8426 6-24x50 Monarch Side Focus...

1 Answer

New nikon monarch III 4-16x42bdc. elevation is mased at lowest set still bore sighting at 2.25 above 0 with windage centered. actual shot is off target.

have you shot it yet???? dont forget bullet drop!!!! but if it shoots to hight thats easy to put right,,,most of the time its a mount fault, but undo the front of the scope mount and slid 3 bits of 35mm film under the scope then nip the scope down on the film strips,,this will lift the point of aim past what you need,,,,

Oct 05, 2010 | Nikon ® Team Primos® 3 - 9x40 mm BDC Rifle...

1 Answer

Unable to zero in on target?

take it in because if he bumped the rail the scope is on it can make it inaccurate

Aug 01, 2009 | Optics

1 Answer

Windage and elevation adjustment all over the place

Sounds like you want to "re-sight" in your rifle. Make sure mounts are okay and tight. Look down barrel and then thru scope and eyeball windage and elevation adjustments so the scope seems to be fairly in line.

Clean barrel if it needs it.

For basic sight in, start at 25 yards with a large(3 to 4 feet) cardboard or wood backdrop around target (bullseye). Fire at target. Once done, look through scope and position rifle such that the shot mark you created is dead zero. Hold rifle very steady and you or buddy move windage and elevation adjustments until scope moves dead zero back toward original target (bullseye). Fine tune from there. Air cool rifle between rounds. Once dead eye, fire another round or two to check grouping. Check your ballistics (sometimes on ammo box) to see how height at 25 yards affects your desired dead on target (100 yards, 150 yards, 250 yards etc.). Adjust accordingly. Example: you may need to sight in at an inch high at 25 yards, depending on your dead on target distance..

Always remove sling from barrel when sighting in.

Try to sight in at similar temperature as you intended shooting temperatures, if possible.

If not black powder, avoid cleaning barrel between sight in and hunt/competition unless you note bad buildup inside.

If you change ammo, understand that that may affect performance. Once a preferred ammo is found, some even try to buy a decent quantity with the same lot number on the boxes if storage allows for such.

May 02, 2009 | Optics

2 Answers

Windage and elevation not working barska 8-32*50mm

I doubt if there is anything wrong with your scope.
The Baraska model A10810 Reticle adjustments are 1/8 ( 1/8 inch) MOA (minute of angle).
For instance, Look at the top turret (The ELEVATION Adjustment Knob). You will see that there are little vertical 'hashmarks' all the way around the knob starting with a '0' then a series of the verticle hashmarks, then a '1' and another series of the marks, then a '2' and so on. YOUR scope will have 8 of those vertical 'hashmarks' between each 'number'. These little 'hashmarks are referred to as 'Clicks' or 'Minute of Angle' adjustments.
Now imagine that you are set up on the 100 yard line and you have fired a round at your target, say a one inch diameter dot or any size for that matter, and the bullet strike was one (1) inch LOW and two (2) inches to the RIGHT and of course you now want your next round to impact in the target dot.
To bring your bullets point of impact UP to coincide with your point of aim (you have your 'crosshairs or RETICLES centered on the dot), you will be turning the TOP adjustment knob CLOCKWISE, ONE 'click' at a time. EACH one of those 'Clicks' will actually move the horizontal Reticle UP (Elevation) or DOWN 1/8 of an inch at a time. If the bullets point of impact was 1 inch LOW, you would need to turn the adjustment knob clockwise Eight (8) clicks which will equal ONE (1) inch.
Now you must adjust the knob on the RIGHT side of the scope. This one is the WINDAGE Adjustment knob which controls the VERTICAL Reticle and moves the point of impact Right or Left. This knob will also have the 'hashmark' increments around its perimeter and like the Elevation knob each 'Click' will move the Reticle 1/8 of an inch but in this case the Reticle and point of impact moves Right or Left.
Remember the bullets point of impact was 2 inches to the RIGHT. This means you must adjust the Reticle or point of impact to the LEFT so that your point of impact will coincide with your point of aim and will be in the target dot. Turn the adjustment knob COUNTER CLOCKWISE Sixteen (16) Clicks. Keeping your POINT of AIM (crosshairs centered on the dot), your next round should be inside the dot and you can then fine tune it from there.
As you can see from this example, the Reticle (crosshairs)and point of impact does not travel very far at all inside your scope at the 100 yard distance so it is not hard to imagine that you thought they were not adjusting to get you on target, when in fact they WERE adjusting, but in tiny increments.
Now, as you create more distance between you and your target, these 'tiny' increments and point of impact will be larger as your distance increases. For example, at 200 YARDS each 'click' will move your Point Of Impact 1/4 of an inch right,left,up, or down. So if your bullet point of impact was one (1) inch low from the 200 yd line you would adjust your Elevation Reticle 4 Clicks to raise your point of impact in order to be on target. At the 300 yd line each Click will adjust the point of impact up,down,right or left, ONE (1) inch.
If you wish, I would be happy to walk you through the 'ZEROing In' of your scope and rifle even if you do not have a Zero Bore Scope. With-in about 9 rounds you can be hitting where you are aiming instead of 'chasing' bullet holes all over the paper.
If you are interested, respond back and I will be glad to assist you. Enjoy. :)

Apr 07, 2009 | Optics

3 Answers

How to sight scope in /what scope do i have ?

Real simple Scott.
You can 'Zero' your scope/rifle even if you don't have a laser bore-scope device.
All this is assuming that your used rifle has not had the barrel shot out and that the head-space is still within specs for that rifle. Have all this checked by a gunsmith first. You can dress up a piece of poop and it will be pretty, but still be poop. Make sure yours isn't to begin with. As for the scope, it's hard to tell unless there's obvious damage or it's an antique past it's prime. Try to get as good a quality scope as possible to start with. You would not put one ply tube tires on your mustang and expect to get the best performance, so...
Most rifles are capable of shooting quite accurately, and all things being equal, it's the shooters job of making it happen.
Ammunition should be considered as well. Toss your old military ball ammo and junk from overseas, both of'em. If you want to shoot accurately and consistently, you must spend the bucks for the best ammo you can afford.
You MUST KNOW what the BALLISTICS are for the Cal./type/weight ammo you will be shooting and the corresponding distance it will be shot from.

Make sure your rifle is CLEAN inside and out. A clean rifle is a happy rifle.
Make sure that your rifle 'fits' your body's frame and that you are familiar and practice good rifle shooting techniques.
'Zeroing' is best done from the prone position as that is the most steady position to shoot from.
Do you have a bi-pod attached? Whether you do or not, sandbag your rifle securely but still able to make small adjustments to the rifle position itself.
Set up a target with a 1" black dot at 50rds.
Remove the bolt.
Lay down with your rifle but stay OFF of it, touch it as little as possible at this point.
With out disturbing the rifle look through the bore downrange to your target. Locate the black dot and if necessary adjust your rifle from the **** end until you can see the dot through the bore. Keep making minor adjustments until the dot appears to be centered in the bore. Make sure rifle is secure and steady at this point.
Then without moving or touching the rifle, look through the scope using the correct eye relief distance and locate the black dot. Now using the Vertical(Elevation) and Horizontal(Windage) adjustment knobs, move the reticles(crosshairs) until they both are centered on the dot.
Again look through the bore to make sure that you have not moved the rifle and that the dot is still centered in the bore. If not, adjust the rifle again to center the dot, then go back to the scope and adjust as necessary to move the RETICLES to the center of the dot. It may be necessary to repeat this a few times before you have achieved this particular goal.
You do not mention brand/model of your scope. It probably adjusts the reticle or crosshairs in 1/4minute increments (1/4 inch increments with each individual click movement of the turret knobs at 100 yard distance). IT IS CRITICAL for you to know how your own scope adjusts.
Now, bolt back in and load 3 rounds of quality ammo.
You are going to shoot 3 rounds in succession without getting off the rifle or making any adjustments to the rifle or scope. You are looking for a 3 shot group to determine a rough average of how far and where the rounds are impacting initially. Use good shooting techniques, breath control, relax, sight picture, squeeeeeeze the trigger, follow through the scope, there is no need to take your eye off the scope while doing this, hold your shooting position for all 3 shots.
You will now have to make adjustments of the scope unless you are hitting the black dot already which is quite possible.
Remember that if your scope is a 1/4" adjustment at 100yds, it means that for each 'click' that you adjust either Vertically or Horizontally at 100rds, the reticle/crosshairs will move accordingly 1/4 of an inch Vertically or Horizontally. At 200yds, one click will move it 1/2 inch, at 300yrd it will move it 3/4 of an inch, at 400yrd, it will be 1 inch.
Right now you are at 50yrds distance from your target. Each click from here will move the RETICLES about 1/8 of an inch so estimate the distance that your most central shot of the 3 you fired, is from the black dot and adjust accordingly. You're not moving the RIFLE here, you are simply moving the scope RETICLES so that your point of aim and point of impact coincides.
Now load 3 more rounds of ammo and repeat as above. You should only have to use about 9 rounds to get on target, the black dot.
Once you are hitting the black dot at the 50yrd line, move back to the 100yrd line. Put a fresh black dot on your target and repeat the steps from above. Your first 3 shots from the 100yrd line should be about 1/2 to 1 inch low. Don't follow the bullet strikes! Keep your point of aim and the crosshairs ON the black dot no matter where the bullets are striking on the target. Remember, now at 100yrds your RETICLES will move 1/4inch with each 'click' of adjustment of the turret knobs.
Adjust the scope as needed at this point. Once you are 'ON TARGET'(hitting the black dot), you now have your 100yrd. 'ZERO'.
Now that you have this 100yrd ZERO, you must loosen the turret knobs , both the Vertical(Elevation) and the Horizontal(Windage) turrets and align the '0' on the knobs with the '0' on the scope at the base of each knob. Now tighten the set screws and you are set to go. If you want to know your 200yrd 'ZERO', simply move back to the 200yrd line, your 'come-up' or elevation adjustment should be about 7-9 clicks, at least for .308 168grn HPBT, but you will figure it out for the Cal./brand/wght ammo you are using. WHATEVER the 'come-up' you need to make at 200, 300,400yrds or wherever, be sure to make note of the number of clicks you used to find the Zero for that distance. Use a fine point endelible marker and actually write the ZERO info on thestock of your rifle. You don't need to mark anything for the 100yrd ZERO, it's a given already. Write; 200/9, 300/18 and so on. You should also get your ZERO for the intermidiate, 150yrd, 250yrds etc, distances as well.
Remember that weather conditions, source and intesity of light conditions, your own body condition at any particular moment or day can have an affecf on how you and/or your rifle shoot. Good luck.

Mar 21, 2009 | Tasco ® Silver Antler® 3-9x40 mm Scope...

1 Answer

Tasco 6-24x42mm rifle scope parallax adjustment

Here's what you need to know about Mil Dots and rangefinding.

When you look through the scope you should see 5 mil dots on each axis, your scope may have broad lines taking place of the 5th mil dot if it is a "modified" mil dot scope. For measuring purposes, 1 mil is the distance from the center of one dot to the center of the one directly above or below it. 3/4 of a mil is the distance from the top of one dot to the bottom of the one above it, or the "space in between dots". 1/4 mil comprises a single dot, the space between the top of one dot and the bottom of that same dot.

A quick calculation is Size of Target (In Yards) x 1000 / Size of target in mils = Range in Yards

Miliradian or "Mil" is an angular unit of measure, so if you were shooting at 1000 yards and moved up 1 miliradian that would be one inch impact moved up.

Anyway lets say you have a 30" target and we need to find the range... using your scope you place the bottom of the target at the CENTER of a mil dot and count how many mils up, good estimation is key... I'll draw a little text diagram, an asterisk * will be the target top and bottom, and parentheses () will be a mill dot
( * )--------(  )-----*---(  )
Now lets assume the asterisk on the left is the bottom of your target and the one on the right is the top, I put Ten Hyphens in between each dot so if you count from the left you should get about 1.6 Mils. Its real easy to do it in your head, you already know two whole dots is one mil so you just have to estimate whats to the right (or top if you were looking down a scope).

So we know the target is 30" and we have a Mil Reading of 1.6
30/36= .833 so 30" is .833 Yards

So now we can use the equation .833 x 1000 / 1.6 = 520.6 Yards is the distance of the target

Now you can also use Mil dots to do hold over for when the target moves or for wind and elevation but that gets extremely complicated.

Parallax in Rifle Scopes is explained here

There are many books and websites to confirm what I've said here, but the best way is to go out to your range and talk to some long range shooters and show them your rifle/scope etc and get hands on help.

Mar 16, 2009 | Tasco Target/Varmint 6-24x42mm Rifle Scope...

2 Answers

I have a Bushnell Sprotiew 4x, 15mm scope mounted on a Mossburg .22 rifle. My shots are hitting left six inches and low. Can you please tell me how to adjust this scope? Thank you.

Keep in mind Diane this is for a set distance. if you are taking a shot at a target further than your are set for (ie a target you wont get 3 shots @) remember how the bullet is travelling as it goes down range

one idea would be to set your rifle up down range and zero it in on a target (preferably paper) now adjust 1 MOA (try and have target @ 100 yards and 200 yards)

see how far the bullet moves for each moa adjustment. then check it against the next range.

this should remain constant @ a set number of inches per 100 yards.

so if you zero in @ 100 yards and then move 1 moa any direction and it adjusts (lets say and hope it is 1.047 inches") then you do the same for 200 yards. it should be twice as much movement. ie 2.094"

once you know what 1 moa represents on your scope you can adjust alot more accurately.

REMEBER the total inches of movement / adjustment per MOA is directly related to range (a precise range helps in shooting) so if your squirrel is 150 yards and your first shot is off 9" to adjust you divide 9" by the inches per moa so 1.5 (150 yards /100) X (Inches per 100 yards per moa you measured hopefully 1.047") its 9" divided by 2x1.047 = 9" / 2.094 = 4.29799

this number needs to be rounded to the nearest click on your scope (most are 1/4 MOA scopes and you can tell by looking at how many clicks/lines are inbewteen each large number on your windage and elevation dials

so to turn this into an adjustment we round 4.29799 to 4.25 which is 4.25 MOA or 17 clicks on a 1/4 min scope.

GL and any questions just post and ill help

not please rate this as fixya :)

Note i can provide EXACT information that would allow you to determine range, and windage and elevation adjustments by looking through scope and estimating range
then factoring in weather variables. NOTE you hafta enjoy math or just want to know how to shoot really well. :)

Dec 22, 2008 | Barska Optics Barska 10-40x50 Ao Varmint...

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