Question about Refrigerators
You don't, you turn off both. If you keep the fridge door closed it will remain cold for a few hours. You can speed up the defrosting of the freezer by putting a large bowl of very hot water in it and close the door. Replace after 30 minutes and clean after another 15 minutes. Looks like that model was not popular and is discontinued.
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Posted on Apr 05, 2018
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
There are 2 or 3 things that would cause this. first make sure the condenser coils are not plugged with dust (vacumn or blow them out) next check to make sure the fan that cools these coils is running, (this is the most likely problem). if both of these check out ok then you would need to check to make sure your interior lights ar going off when the doors are closed as these will add extra heat and cause the center rails to run hot. last and most uncommon would be a freon system problem.
fyi there is a hot gas freon line that runs in between the doors to prevent exterior sweating. when poor or no air flow problems for the condenser coil exist it causes this area to become hotter.
One more thing. if you do determine that the condenser fan motor is bad you can put a normal house fan blowing on to the coil to help cool this area down until you can get the unit repaired.
If you need any further assistance leave me a comment here and I'll gladly get back to you. Thanks Peyton
Posted on Mar 11, 2009
Hi - can't solve it but ours has started doing the same - ours will only work if the fridge temperature is selected to 9 C (press the button under ~Ref Temp until cycles round to 9C) then it controls to 9 - if the temperature is set to 5C then it seems to give up and goes back to 15 - don't know why but will investigate more
Posted on Apr 04, 2010
SOURCE: HAve a WP SxS model
Sounds like you have a defrost problem since the freezer side is working okay . It probably is not blowing cold air into the refrigerator side , so to check the defrost circuit , unplug the refrigerator and inside the refrigerator section at the top about 2" in from each side in the back , there are "D" slots to put a finger in , and pull downward and forward , to remove the control panel cover . Once removed , there is a 1/4" screw on each side holding the adjustment indicator panel on , 1 phillips screw behind both light bulbs , and 1 screw holding the complete panel to the rear wall . After removing these 5 screws , at the top right corner , with about 6-8 wires going to it , is the adaptive defrost board . Sometimes you can see the electronic board and on newer refrig's , a white box will be seen. Inside this box , is the adaptive defrost control . Disconnect the plug going to the board and on the right side of the PLUG , the far right wire is yellow , then another color , then white . Using a small insulated wire with both ends stripped , insert one end into the yellow wire hole and the other into the white wire hole . This will bypass the adaptive board and send power directly through the defrost bimetal ( thermostat ) AND heater to check if they are good .Plug the refrigerator back in . Now , wait about 3-5 min and look for a red glow at the bottom of the inside freezer panel , which will be the defrost heater or listen for sizzling which will be the frost melting and dripping onto the heater .If NO red glow , watch for a spark while removing the jumper wire you installed , from the plug . If a spark IS seen , then the heater was on and the heater AND bimetal are good . If you see the red glow , hear the sizzling , or see the spark , then the adaptive defrost board should be replaced . If no glow , sizzling or spark , then unplug the refrigerator and reinstall the refrigerator control section .
Remove the food in the freezer section enough so that the 2 screws holding the lower freezer panel on and the freezer panel , can be removed . Remove the panel . If the heater (black element at the bottom of the coils ) wires are visible , trace then to the top of the coils and disconnect . Use an ohm meter to determine if the element is good . If the element IS good , at the top of the coils , is a 1" cylinder with 2 wires , clipped onto the coils . This is the defrost thermostat ( bimetal ) . Replace this part if the element shows good . If the element shows bad , replace the element . NOTE 1 : sometimes the element and the bimetal come wired together and the replacement part comes with a new heater and bimetal already wired togather . This would be the advisable replacement part . However , each part can still be replaced individually . NOTE 2 : If looking at the bimetal and the top plastic " cap " looks cockeyed , replace the bimetal as moisture has gotten inside and disturbed its designed function .
Posted on Aug 15, 2010
The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper) between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through it. Make sure this fan is running. You may have to hold the door switch in for it to run. There is a flap you adjust with the fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the fridge temp.
The problem could be the electronic control if you have one or the mechanical linkages.
If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.
Posted on Aug 16, 2010
SOURCE: Whirlpool SXS.....1. compressor cooling fan quit so fridge and freezer stopped working. 2. replaced cooling fan and fridge and freezer working again. 3. Now the fridge and freezer works but runs nonst
My problem is came home to a burning plastic smell. Pulled the plug and cleaned in and out of the refrigerator. Plugged it back on and turn the temp switch up and bingo the smell came back and the plug on the motor with the relay began to smoke. I quickly unplugged the fridge. Since reading I thought maybe the relay is bad, but it does not shake or rattle like indicated. Seems like the relay not burnt but smells bad. Even the motor smells bad. Need help.
Posted on Oct 31, 2012
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