Question about Maytag Washing Machines
Maytag model MVWC35
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The belt turn the pulley, but the height of the pulley is worn out so it didn't push up a mechanism to release the brake and to engage with the clutch to make the spin.
You have to takethe shaft out to study how it works then it makes sense on what I 'm talking.
The pulley cost only $11 but it is a major laboring exercise. It is a good learning to have hands on to this problem. Good luck on replacing the pulley.
Posted on Aug 09, 2009
We have a Maytag Performa G3300 that we bought on 8/13/2001. It still works great, but on 2/25/10 it stopped heating. We found that by removing the front panel and vacuuming the accumulated lint on the inside of the dryer and the door, the problem was resolved. There were no parts to replace, just vacuuming.
Posted on Feb 27, 2010
The water-level switch regulates your washer's fill volume. This switch is usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. If the switch is defective, it may prematurely signal the water to shut off. If so, you probably need to replace the water-level switch.
Posted on Jan 26, 2011
sounds like this is a clutch and brake assembly problem. The clutch
provide the necessary pressure for the lining to turn with the hub and
the clutch tab to push the brake cam driver and release the brake. The
clutch spring of your washer must be weak or the clutch lining is worn
causing it to slide and not release the brake. This prevents the tab
the clutch spring to force the brake cam driver, release the brake, and
allow the basket to spin particularly when the machine is under load. This is manifested in the spinning of the drum when the machine is empty. The clutch and brake assemblies are located just below the tub and the excessive heat resulted from the friction between the clutch lining and the clutch hub.
Remove the thrust washer from the agitator shaft then remove the clutch and brake assembly from the top of the gearcase by removing the retaining clip using a screwdriver. Unsnap the clip and the clutch retaining ring the slide the clutch off the agitator shaft. Make sure to retain the washer located under the clutch.
Install the new clutch assembly on top of the gearcase then insert the clutch band and hold it in place. Using a pair of needle-nose pliers, place the end caps on the clutch spring and compress to insert into the open end of the band. Release the tension on the spring and the band will stay in place the reinsert the retaining clip on top of the clutch.
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Posted on Jul 30, 2011
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