Question about Whirlpool LGR5636L Gas Dryer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
i am sending you all the possibilities for your problem, check either of these causes ----and than let me know if it is solved----
Power from the house
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)
A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.
Posted on Dec 12, 2008
SOURCE: roper dryer won't heat
first thing is check the voltage between the black and red terminals at the back of the dryer. you should read 240v. then check the voltage between the balck and the white and the red and the white. there should be 120v at each. if all that is good remove the back of the dryer. make sure you unplug it first. then no the lower right you will see the heater. near the top of the heater you will see a red wire and a red/with a white stripe wire attached to the high limit cutout. remove one wier and check the switch for continuity. if you read nothing its bad and thats why there is o heat. Ifnit checks good replace the wire and then remove one red wire from the heater. then check the heater with your meter. most times on the whirlpool products its one of the two that is bad. check the two thing I described and if you still need help feel free to get back to me and we can go from there.Good luck
Posted on Aug 22, 2007
SOURCE: WHIRLPOOL DRYER MODEL LEQ8858JQO
Thermostat, High limit and low limit thermostat or even a safety Temp limiter. All three are similar in cost and located on the back inside of the dryer and 1 by the airflow tube under the lint trap.
Posted on Apr 09, 2008
Gas valve coils
Watch the igniter. Does it glow bright orange, then shut off without igniting the gas? (When the gas ignites there's a large blue flame.) If so, there may be defective coils on the gas valve. Mounted on the top of modern gas valves, there are black electrical coils. The coils, when energized, open the gas valve. If one or more of the coils are defective, the valve doesn't open and the gas cannot ignite. Because it's often difficult to properly test the coils, it's usually best to replace both (all) of them at the same time.
I hope this helps....
Posted on Jan 21, 2009
It may be the thermal fuse but it could also be the heating element. The way to check is to open it up as described above and run the dryer. Watch the element and if it turns on then off again immediately then it is your thermal fuse. That is only about 15 dollars to fix and you can get a new fuse at any appliance repair shop. If the element doesn't ever come on then the element is burnt out and needs to be replaced. This is a little more expensive. I hope this was helpful and if you have any more questions feel free to ask me. Good luck.
Posted on Jan 22, 2009
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