Question about Hayward H Series Induced Draft Abg 100,000 Heater

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Heater will ignite & burn for approx. 15-20 seconds. Bypass installed, however, same problem exists.

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Clean burners

Posted on Aug 25, 2009


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Only one bad door switch should do that

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Igniter goes on blower runs for 30 seconds main heater flame ignites and burns for approx 30 seconds then it shuts down for approx 10 seconds and repeats the same sequence 3 times, then shuts down...

there should be a flame detector sensor. it is in the flame. this will need to be cleaned with a wire brush or scrapped with something to get the carbon build up off of it.
you will see something that in in the flame area that is kind of charred and black with a wire coming out of it.
this is designed to tell the unit that there is a flame present and if that flame is not there after serveral attempts it will shut it down. because it there was no flame there you would get gas fumes pumped into you house.
you could change it out or usually you can just clean it and it will work fine.

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How can i tell if my toyostove laser72 igniter is working properly after i have removed it from the unit

If the igniter is still out of the heater, it will get hot enough to burn you in just a couple of seconds if you turn the heater on. You can test the igniter with an ohmmeter. If you connect the ohmmeter to the 2 ends of the igniter you should get 10 - 17 ohms if it is good. With the igniter installed in the heater you can put a clamp on ammeter around just 1 of the leads for the igniter and should get between 2 - 5 amps if it is working. You can also feel the cap over the end of the igniter. Turn the heater on and the cap should start to get warm in 30 - 60 seconds but may take longer. Also, if the igniter is not working you will not see any flame after the 3 minute warm up the heater goes through. Of course this could also be caused by a lack of fuel. The quickest way is either the ohmmeter or ammeter and takes any guess work out it.

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Heater fires up burns for 8-10 seconds then shuts down then attemps to restart one time then completely shuts down and then the service heater light turns on.

Most Common problem with gas pool heaters is the pressure switch, in order to test it you need to open front access panel and disconnect the pressure switch which the sensor connected to the end of a brass tube, touch the ends together in order to bypass the pressure switch, if it works as normal when doing this then it is just a bad switch, very easy to change. Costs about 30 bucks.

Nov 26, 2010 | Sta Rite Sr400na Max E Therm Pool & Spa...

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My vulcan ducted heating unit blows cold air for approx 1 minute when turned on then stops and try's again after approx 1 minute,it does this several times until ignited.It is obviously an ignition...

Two things have to occur here:

1) The ignitor has to light off the gas. A bad ignitor, or dusty burners can prevent ignition.

2) The thermocouple has to be in the flow of burning gas to prevent a safety shut-down, and has to be working.

And the obvious: you need pressure in the gas line, and the gas valve needs to be open.

Hope this helps you locate the problem!

Aug 14, 2010 | Vulcan AUW230A Heater

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Opened & cleaned pool. Haward 250 Heater woun't stay on.

Could be a dirty or faulty ignition sensor. This is the sensor that tells the heater that there is a flame burning normally. If that sensor gets dirty or fails, the heater thinks there's no flame even though there is and cuts the gas as a safety measure. Cut the power, remove the cover, and check all the wire connections to be sure the leads are clean and dry and snug. The ignition sensor is near the bottom. If that doesn't work, then the sensor might be faulty rather than dirty. Call a tech to replace it.

May 30, 2010 | Hayward 250kbtu Ng Pool Heater - Inground

1 Answer

Heater making loud noises

I had this problem with mine ( hayward h series abg100 ): exhaust fan turned on, waited approx 15sec, gas turned on, ignition, flame lit (can verify in flame window below knob), stayed lit for ~5-10 seconds (varied), I heard popping, cracking, knocking, banging noises, then gas turned off.

I believe the reason it does this is the bypass/diverter plate in the exchanger (right at the inlet side) is loose; the weld broke loose. They weld this very poorly and is obviously a known issue with the unit. I think storing it outside in the winter doesnt help. Another reason for the noise could be not enough water going through the exchanger because of a problem with the diverter plate, therefore the exchange gets to hot and boils.

I believe the ignition board senses this somehow (not sure how though, only way I can think of is via the ignition sensor), and cuts off the gas. I managed to fix this by putting on a small stainless steel hose clamp around the thermostat forcing the divertor plate tight up against the top so the water flows through the 3 exchange pipes. This was a very difficult maneuver due to working inside the tight pipe, but it worked!

You can check if you have the same problem as me by taking off your hose input to the heater, and removing the outer 2 PVC reducer connectors. Then you'll have access and sight to the exchanger input (3" pipe?) and should see what I'm talking about. If the plate moves (or isn't tight) then you most likely have the same issue. if you have questions.

Jul 06, 2009 | Hayward H Series Induced Draft Abg 100,000...

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