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Bruce Poltrock Posted on Mar 22, 2018

Breville Toaster BTA730. Want hold down. How do I pull it apart?

I've undone all the screw from the bottom, & straightened the metal tabs that lock it but something is still not letting the cover come off.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Jan 08, 2011

SOURCE: I am trying to take apart the toaster, but...

You need to remove the four rubber feet at the four corners, and that's where the screws are. Get a small flathead screwdriver and pry the rubber feet out of their sockets and you'll see small screws.

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Anonymous

  • 1476 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 20, 2006

SOURCE: another problem comes up....

You definitely have a problem with the hold down circuit. You will need a DMM. If you don't have one they are fairly inexpensive now and with a little reading of the instructions you should be able to master their use. Look for a fusible resistor. It should be a small shiny canister, pointed on one end flat on the other, with metal leads on each end and inline on the wire to the hold down mechanism. Once you find this, with the DMM on resistance setting (continuity), check across the device. If the DMM says infinity, in other words it shows a 1 and the display never changes, this is your problem. Replace it with a new one. They protect the device from runaway heating and are set to open at predetermined temps. Replace it witht the same rated device. Available at most electronic stores. The rating should be in centigrade (such as 160, 180, ect). This should solve your problem. You cannot solder the thermal fuse in as solder will melt when the toaster gets hot. It must be crimped to the wire. Sounds like your almost there. Good luck.

Anonymous

  • 83 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 25, 2007

SOURCE: bottom screw on handle loose

open the door and you will have to peel and pry apart door.It is abot a 1-2" frame around inside door.that peels off it just snaps in.

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on May 04, 2009

SOURCE: Wingman Contacts Dirty, Cannot Open Cover

The the ring with 5 like screws is just cover that can be gentle forced out with a flat screwdriver. Then comes off the power control and the rubber gasket. Finally the top cover comes out. Simple.       coco13cos(Romania)

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Jan 16, 2010

SOURCE: Flair S2220 Removed the four screws holding bottom

Pop out the two little rollers underneath, at the front. you will find two little screws holding it on. Unfortunately, I found after I broke it off!

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I found the answer (see below) posted on another web site. I followed the instructions and replaced the spring. I found, as the original poster had, that the new spring works better than the original and is much more sturdy. To the original instructions, I would add the following:

1) There are about 20 screws so have patience removing and replacing the screws.
2) Step 3, "Slide off the rear panel" requires further clarification as the panel will not slide off even with all screws removed. I had to turn the oven over, with the top of the oven sitting on the work table. I then used a screw driver to lift the two tabs that hold the back panel to the bottom panel. With the tabs lifted, the back panel will rotate away from the oven along the edge where back panel slides into the top panel. The back panel can then be slid out. I have included three photos that show this step.
3) Step 7, "Re-attach feet": Be sure to use the guides on the bottom of the oven to slide the foot assembly onto the oven. I had unsuccessfully tried to screw the feet onto the oven without using the guides.

Oringinal instructions for replacing the broken spring:

Just repaired this yesterday.

Got a spring from Lowes (Hillman Part # 543028 for about $4), it's larger than the original but seems much sturdier, original is really thin metal. Fit the space provided without problem.

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This is for BOV800XL:
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Hi, I just took one apart to fix a cold solder joint, so here's my take on disassembly.

The brushed aluminum cover comes off by removing nine screws on the bottom, then manipulating seven tabs and removing the main handle on the plunger.

First, remove the main handle. It has a small plastic locking tab underneath and the tab may break because it hooks onto a metal spike in the toaster and this seems intended to be permanent. I broke it because I just pulled the handle straight off, but I'm not worried because the handle will still go back on reasonably tight; it just won't lock. However, if you want to try to remove it without breaking the plastic locking tab, I would try sticking a thin screwdriver under the bottom of the handle to disengage the plastic tab from the spike.

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The four remaining tabs are located on the top of the toaster just inside the main toast slots. The top metal cover folds into the toast slots and forms metal tabs at each end of each toast slot. They unhook relatively easily by sliding the top cover tabs about 1mm towards the centre of the toaster - there's no bending of metal required.

At that point, it takes some playing around to actually remove the cover. Start by working it straight upwards, then lift it off at the back of the toaster first, before the front because there's a cable at the front of the toaster that prevents the top cover from lifting completely off straight up and, as well, the metal plunger arm that holds the handle will be the last thing to unhook. The plunger arm and the cord retraction mechanisms do get in the way, but it is possible to do it without forcing anything.

Note that after the metal cover is unfastened and pulled off, it is still attached to the toaster mechanism by a short internal electronics cable which connects the toaster to the front buttons in the cover. The front buttons and display remain attached inside the cover. At this point, the toaster should still function normally despite it having the cover off.

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5. Facing the lever end, (may be easier with a helper), lift the casing about 2-3 inches and unplug the wire on your left side then lift it up completely but be careful because another wire on the right side will remain attached;
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Note: You don't need to undo the bolts inside the toaster. (They only hold the metal base to the plastic base), the 4 torx screws holding the side panel on, or the 4 twisted pieces of metal which hold the toaster internals to the base.

Inside, there are 4 prongs which are pushed together when you push the toast down. On further inspection, I found the main blue power cable had become corroded, and had melted and become disconnected. So simply unscrewed the 2 screws hold this section on,(simply for easier access) and resoldered the blue cable back onto the correct prong.

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For what it might cost to fix it buy a better brand of toaster for about 10% of the cost of this horrible brand.
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$15 to $25 at Walmart.. instead of $100 to $200.
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Please send a picture, I cannot tell were it goes unless I know what it looks like, your discription is very discriptive, but please send a picture to the following e-mail address:

[email protected]
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