The red light was blinking fast and the water drop was on..The water drop is off now but the red light stays on.

SOURCE: KP1010 Blue light blink really fast

For those of you having problems with your KRUPS KP1010 Pod brewer stopping brewing in mid-cycle and then having the blue led power light blink rapidly, I have found the cause of the problem as well as a solution.
I have a Krups KP1010 pod brewer at home that is nearly 2 years old and has NEVER had a problem. Having enjoyed it’s continued great performance, when a small group (8 people) of people in my office decided to go "POD", we pooled our money to purchase the Krups.
After 8 months of moderate, not heavy, use, this problem developed. It got worse and worse, so bad that it would stop almost instantly after pressing the brew button. Sometimes it would work as normal, and other times, we found that if you applied pressure to the top lid, it would work completely.
This started me thinking that there must be a sensor switch inside to detect when the lid is open. This suspicion was backed up by the fact that when the Pod brewer was ON, but IDEL, if you open the lid, the blue light would and should blink.
Here is what I did to fix it.
If you are at all handy with taking things apart and making small minor repairs, this problem can be easily fixed rather quickly.
There is a total of 8 screws to remove. Four are located at the bottom of the unit and are the same size. Two more are located under the water tank reservoir, so you will have to remove the water tank to access them. These two screws are the same size at the four that you removed from the bottom of the unit. The last two screws are located at the top of the tank, BEHIND the lid, but can easily be seen when you remove the water tank. Turn the KP1010 around so that the tank is facing you. When you have the tank removed, look at the top area of the body of the pod brewer. These are the last two screws that you will have to remove. They are NOT the same size as the other six, and you will likely need a smaller jewelers sized Philips screw driver to remove them.
Once you get the back of the unit off, with the water tank side of the brewer facing you (coffee pod area facing AWAY from you), look in the upper right corner. Unlock the latch at the front of the brewer. Now while looking in through the back water tank area, in the upper right corner, gently raise and lower the brewer lid. You will notice that there is a LID SENSOR SWITCH. The switch is defective and, like a washing machine, when the lid is OPENED, the switch cuts the circuit (power) to the brewer, the same as when the washing machine stops when you open the lid.
The Fix: While Pod brewer is UNPLUGGED, gently grasp one of the two connector wires attached to the lid sensor switch. BE SURE TO GRAB IT FROM THE METAL CONNECTOR AND NOT THE BLACK WIRE ITSELF AS YOU MAY PULL THE WIRE AWAY FROM THE METAL CONNECTOR AND WHILE IT IS STILL REPAIRABLE AT THIS POINT, IT WILL BE MUCH MORE TIME AND SKILL CONSUMING.
Once you have removed the wire and it’s metal connector from the lid sensor switch, repeat this process with the OTHER black wire connected to the lid sensor switch.
(I tested this fix by at FIRST using basic tape) The fix for bypassing the lid sensor switch is to connect both black wires together. I initially used basic tape to ensure that my suspected cause of this problem would be fixed by my suspected solution. I then brewed 3 tanks of water back to back and the "stop brewing, rapidly flashing blue light" problem NEVER appeared. FIXED!
Now to be a bit more professional about it……… I removed the tape and soldered the metal connectors of both black wires together, and then wrapped with electrical tape. You COULD just wrap them together snugly with electrical tape if your NOT into soldering, but for the best, most secure connection, SOLDERING is the best option as there is no chance of vibration causing the black wire metal contacts from intermittently losing contact with each other. Again, if you are un-comfortable with soldering, at least try wrapping the wires snugly together with electrical tape.
Today our Krups KP1010 brewed flawlessly all day. The ONE downside to consider in this procedure is that now after having this "fix" performed, should you leave the lid of the brewer OPEN and start a brew cycle, the brewer WILL operate and shoot hot water & steam out everywhere. However, for those of you that own this brewer, you should know that having the lid open nearly completely obstructs you from easily reaching the brew button AND, what moron would leave the lid open and try to make coffee? If someone does that, they DESERVE to get burned!!
Best of Luck!!
Ed

SOURCE: Won't brew a full pot.

well I hope this helps some, i was having a similar problem with my brewstation and decided to take it apart ( why not, it's already broken! ) this machine has seen a year of very heavy use and I could not bring myself to just throw it away. It would take forever to brew and I would have to turn it off and on several times to brew a full pot. I unplugged the machine, emptied out the water and turned it on it's back. Remove the 4 phillipshead screws and the two torx screws from the bottom ( if you dont have torx handy like me just gently pry the two halves apart till the screws pull through- after you have removed the phillips heads!) at this point the bottom will just come right off, no special tricks. You will now see a horseshoe shaped aluminum tube with orange silicone tubes at either ends of it, this is the heatime element. slide the small hose clamps back away from the element on the hoses and pull the hoses off both sides of the element end only, this will require a little elbow grease to do. Now carefully remove the two phillips screws securing the heating element to the maker BE OBSERVANT AS TO HOW THE WASHERS AND SPACERS ARE SECURED and remove them. To give yourself a little room for the element to come further out of the machine also remove the wiring clamp from the inside, it is a white half "c" plastic piece with 2 screws holding it, it is securing about 7 wires down with wire nuts on them. Once this is removed it will give you enough play to pull the heating element several inches away from the machine, do so. Now look inside the tubes of the element and you should see one side looks clear and clean and the other end is probably going to be clogged solid with tan colored gunk, the water could not pass through!. I took a piece of metal coat hangar (all i had around at the time) and bent it to the conture of the element and used it to **** out the element, uncloging it. this takes a little time because the buildup is very hard to break up. Once that is done carefully wash out the element getting all the build up that was broken up out, CLEAN IT GOOD!. The next step is to dry the exterior and make sure all the wiring is dry, try not to wet the wires at the wiring nuts or it may short out. Now re assemble the machine, run cleaner through and enjoy a cup of coffee !!

SOURCE: Cleaning light will not quit blinking after cleaning

The same thing happened to our Mr. Coffee this week! I followed the instructions about running vinegar through, then rinsing several times with water. However, the light would not stop blinking. We did by-pass the light by setting the timer for delayed brewing and it worked. However, that blinking light came on again. Then, my husband tired the vinegar wash again but instead of doing it one time, he ran the same vinegar through 6 times until the light went out! Then he proceeded with the water rinse. Our Mr. Coffee is working again!

SOURCE: Blinking red water light on SAECO ITALIA with full tank of water

Your tank may be full but water is not getting into the system. The only way for the red light to go away is to have water come out of the other end...either the coffee spouts or the steam wand. The word they use for this is "pump priming". Thus, either the motor is not sucking water in or there is blockage. Unless water gets out to the other side, the red light will stay on. Before getting dirty with the system, check the tip of the steam wand...if old milk is blocking that end. You will know this is the case when you turn the steam knob counter clockwise to release water but you only hear a semi-startup on the motor and then abruptly stops while the steam knob simultaneously pops out a little bit. It indicates a "blowback"...that there is blockage at one end of the pipe (ie steam wand). Get the residue out by dipping the wand in a tall glass of hot water...wait for a few minutes and blow it out with using the steam knob. Should be ok after that.--Mabada1

SOURCE: Keurig Special Edition that will not brew

all the lights are blinking its clean, descaled, filled with water and the power button and all the buttons just blink and it wont brew just had this machine less than 6 months and the machine will only quit blinking when i unplug it and yes ive tried different outlets when i plug it back in all the lights start blinking again and it wont brew i want a solution to this problem and i dont want to be sent to another site where they charge me to answer a question the $119 i payed for the thing should be enough im ready to throw it out the window im so frustrated with it