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You will have better luck with a hand glass scorer, looks like a pen with a score wheel at the bottom and the tube is filled with oil (like a sewing machine oil). If you want to cut each tile individually, then snap the tile by holding each side with a pair of snubby pliers wrapped in tape (slippery otherwise) You can get a glas scoring pen at craft stores with stained glass supplies or a stained glass supply shop or online. The wet saw is used to cut a row of the tiles at once, which is most efficient. The sliding tile scorer would be too cumbersom to hold the small tile in place and try to cut.
run a bead of clear silicone between bezel and glass. You might want to mask off the clear glass and cut a small gap about 1/8" into the glass with a razor blade or X-acto knife (they will not scratch glass - if it is glass). Then use the clear silicone - let it start to harden for an hour (pull tape off before it sets completely).
easiest method is a single edge razorblade. next time, mask the glass (with painter's tape) where you wish the edge of the sealant to be, apply the silicone, and remove the tape as soon as the seal is smoothed to your satisfaction, do not let the silicone set up before removing the tape.
First remove as much of the old adhesive without digging into the paint as you can-do this with a utility razor knife-this is a hard job to do. you can leave a small amount on the opening. next get a tube of automotive window adhesive. It will come in a caulk tube-run a bead about 3/8" tall and wide-be very carefull this stuff is nasty to clean off-gently push glass into opening-not to hard-use masking tape to hold in place for 8 hours and do not slam the doors with the windows up as this will cause the adhesive to blow out and cause leaks Cheers Denny
The pair taped together usually are the inner and it is possible to put in backwards----should have marked this with masking tape before removal which is rarely needed to transport this set---cover with heavy quilt and face forward in a pickup etc so wind does not **** screens out.
If your problem is over painting the mirror.
Why not use some old used newspaper and some masking tape to cover it?
The mirror could be pulled out by pressing the inner side of the mirror while your pulling the the other side.
Hope that solve your problem!
Thanks for using Fixya!
First you will need to remove the inner door panel to gain access to the window motor and regulator. The are only serviced as a unit. You will need some masking tape or duct tap for the next step, on the bottom edge od the window glass you will fine that it is attached to the regulator. There are two clips you will need to remove ( they pull out fairly easy) Before removing them place strips of tape over the top ov the door frame down both side of the glass to hold it in place. Next disconnect the wiring from the window motor it will be mounted in the center of the door frame.You will find 4 bolts 1 in each end of the regulator. You may think your trying to get a square peg into a round hole wiggling the regulator out but it will come. Installing is the opposite of removal, just be sure to plug in your motor and take the tape off the glass before trying the operation and alignment before putting the door panel back on. Hope this helps
The rubber molding probably still has a coating of mold release on it form when made. Try some plain alcohol to remove it, or some dish soap and water. It may be a silicon based mold release agent which is very stubborn to remove.
First, keep in mind that as you begin to remove these doors you run the risk of causing serious scratches to the paint and glass, so put some masking tape and/or plastic sheeting around both sides of the door (rear quarter panel and rear glass, front door and front door glass) I would get a Haynes repair guide since that's what I have to work from and it will tell you step by step with pictures, what to do. It's not hard, but you need to get all of the attach points unhooked to be successful. Suggest you have a helper working with you to keep the door steady.