Defective main circuit board is likely.
SOURCE: Picture goes off and on...
Most likely your Cathode Ray Tube or CRT is going bad. That model number reflects an older TV. What you are describing is a fairly common problem for that television. If you bump the TV and it improves or gets worse then you know there may be a short.. Either way, I would recommend that you use our Premium Service or use our online resources to find a repair person near you. Good luck.
SOURCE: Picture goes black mins after watching
Bad flyback transformer. It has a short in the winding making the Horizontal output transistor heat up so when its too hot the set goes into protection.
SOURCE: whilst watching tv after 10 to 15 min screen goes
I had this problem on my 42" Philips. Just got it yesterday and worked fine on the tv stand. As soon as I mounted the TV to the wall via wall mount system, I had the exact same issue you did. Figured it out today.
The wall mount was putting pressure against the center of the back of the tv (tv set had a slightly rounded back plate, and the mount was a flat plate). As soon as I put spacers (part of the wall mount hardware set) between the wall mount braket and the tv so there was no contact except at the mounting holes, the tv worked fine.
My theory is the pressure pushed the tv back plate against some board components which caused them to overheat (no air flow); or put pressure on internal connectors. I dont know.
Hope this helps, may not apply to your situation.
SOURCE: hello my samsung lcd 40 turns
I hope it is still under warranty.
Have no picture can be caused by bad T-CON board, bad main board, bad 24vdc power supply for the backlight inverter board, bad backlight inverter board. You need to get some basic understanding how LCD flat panel works so it will guide you how to go about troubleshooting it. Please read and look at the pictures to help you.
First, look at the screen in darkened room to see if you can see any slight glow from the screen, if it does, then the problem can be the T-CON (not getting the 12vdc) or the main logic board not feeding the signals to the T-CON board.
if not, next place to check will be the power supply module, make sure it has 24vdc which is required by the backlight inverter to work, the reason for not having 24vdc can be from bad DC filter caps (leaking/bulging top, high ESR) or short circuits in the inverter board which will cause the 24vdc supply to go into shutdown mode, so you may have to disconnect the power cable that feed the inverter board to see if the 24vdc will work without the inverter board hookup, you will need to apply about 3~4 amp of load to the 24vdc to make sure it can handle that. There are fuses on the backlight inverter boards also. So there is some troubleshooting you will have to do to find out the causes of the problem you are having.
If you are going to DIY and have proper tools, electronics knowledge, and know safety precaution then please read on:
Basic LCD monitor and TV troubleshooting guide:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5093881-lcd_flat_panel_tv_troubleshooting_guide
http://www.fixya.com/support/r6150077-basic_lcd_monitors_troubleshooting
http://www.fixya.com/support/r7406380-tv_training_manuals
Failed TV and Monitors pictures: http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm
Learn about bad caps: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague
Parts: www.shopjimmy.com
Capacitors kit: http://lcdalternatives.auctivacommerce.com/Default.aspx he can make you a set of caps.
Or www.digikey.com, just make sure to use caps with low ESR, 105c, high ripple current and long life rating such as PANASONIC FM or FC series.
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