Factory reset. I donot see on pdf. Do u recommend just breaking down and buying new amp with arc. I bought my amp just priar to hdml becoming the standard.
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A history of head work will have to be known to explain this fault If the head has been removed and milled flat ( warped head form over heat or other problems) and the cam bearings are not tunnel bored to put them back in line then the cam shaft will break very quickly. To show why take a piece of soft substance between your fingers ,bend it in an arc and turn it in that arc and you will see that it will fatigue at the centre of the arc and break. With the cam bearings making the shaft fit that arc and the shaft is turning then it will break.. Mazda had adjustable cam bearing posts and both sides of the head had to be machined or the posts had to be shimmed to allow the shaft to run straight. Remember there is very little load on a cam shaft that would cause it to snap so thoroughly investigate the alignment of the cam bearings.
That's easy You somehow have been driving around for years possibly, with all sorts of issues,mostly cylinder ignition misfires & have ruined the bank #1 exhaust converter that should last 12 years or more. Iam going to say you need all new spark plugs, all new ignition coils, if they are COP Coils,new converters & all new oxygen sensors It all could have been prevented unless you just bought someones neglected vehicle Very common to see all sorts of issues simply because of a total lack of vehicle knowledge & no one to educate you,not a dealer or a repair shop,they just work on the break down,sad really. The technology of the past 30 plus years was to cut down on exhaust emission & it has just cause people to buy vehicles they can't afford,lease them & waste money & never open a hood,never realize they now need a LOT of checking out a few times a year. Even 20 years ago you never saw the neglect,abuse & problems you see now
check the transmition speed sensor take out and clean up all metal pices add on the sensor put this back and check the two drive shaftmake sure bot are all way in and loock if the car donot change anything check the speed sensor with one omh-meter conect the meter terminal on each pin of the sensor conector and pass a pice of metal up and down on the magnect side of the sensor you need see chages on the meterif donot dueany change put a new sensor
Short of installing conventional struts/shocks in place of the
air ride suspension,& that is what I recommend always,
your only other choice, if your going to work on your own vehicles,
is to spend the big money as i have for close to 50 years &
buy ALL Factory Manuals & Wiring Diagrams
You simply can not work on any system, on any product,
you have no knowledge of or reference material for
The was two choices
Buy the Ford version--Expedition or convert to non air
Never be happy or keep your wallet full until you do
Bad System & worse to diagnose
the engine will break-in (the rings will seat & performance will improve)with regular driving.it takes a few thousand km to happen.a good mix of highway & city driving is good.
this happened to me. there is a code you have to enter. I bought my blazer used and didn't know the code so i took it to a dealer. they will retrieve the code, unlock it and then YOU write it down in your manual for future use!
Just take your time and make sure your batter isn't in the car. Be careful not to cut into the copper wires. Just try to make it look as close to factory as you can and in the same pattern.
Not necessarily. If the store correctly cross referenced your rotors they are a match. Often after market products will have different styles of hardware. As long as the size and threading is the same you are OK to use the old torx. These bolts can really seize up over time. Spray some liquid wrench or WD-40 and let sit. Best to use an impact driver on theses as a slow wrenching torque can rip the heads off before they break loose. Keep the old hdw.
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