Not sure I understand how the water pump could be responsible for noise during agitation. Is it more likely the transmission? Could a loose belt cause it?
SOURCE: make noise during wash cycle, has no agitator action and no spin during spin cycle/drain cycle
Looks like the bearings may have failed. TURN OFF the POWER and try and rotate the agitator/tub by hand. If it is jammed you should investigate why. Possibly caused by bearing failure or something wound around spindle.
Take care and do not attempt to investigate the problem without first disconnecting from the mains!
SOURCE: Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ8543JQ0 WON'T SPIN
really sounds like a coupler issue. May look fine but if one of the teeth are busted it will do this. You can get a tutorial for fixing this here. http://www.shop.washermd.com/category.sc?categoryId=4
SOURCE: Maytag Atlantis 6451 noise when on and agitator doesn't work.
it does sound like a bad motor.
they are rather expensive on that machine,
you would be looking at 300 or so
SOURCE: I have a Kenmore 90 series Model # 110.28902790,
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?pop=true&modelNumber=110.28902790
Please see the Whirlpool Service Manual for top load, direct drive washers.
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf
Also see the Whirlpool Parts list for their commercial washers although the consumer models use the same parts.
The problem points to a worn Agitate Cam.
Whirlpool part number 62580/01. This is a plastic set used to raise the agitate gear on the shaft.
The cam is a two piece plastic part that lifts a gear above the main agitate assembly in the transmission so that the agitator doesn't turn during the spin cycle.
We had the same problem. The cams had worn enough that they weren't lifting the gear (less than 1/16").
They aren't expensive at all but do require pulling the transmission.
See the following for a description of how to remove the transmission.
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137
You don't have to remove the tub!!
Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.
Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.
Remove the transmission cover.
Pull off the spin pinion.
Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.
The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.
Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.
Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.
The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)
It may seem like a difficult job but it really isn't. It is a bet messy but it's a lot less expensive than a $170 transmission.
Testimonial: "Thank you so much! I have the parts on order and will repair it in a few days."
SOURCE: Admiral washer model AW20N2V making a clicking sound...
call manufacturer. heard there was a recall... for dangers of fire.
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