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No heat, 120 power to only one leg of heating element. The power was read on the side of the heating element that came from switches. I do not have a schematic, so it is hard to ttrouble shoot, not knowing the functions of temp controsl and over temp sw.

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If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:

Power from the house
Heating element
Thermal fuse
Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.

Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)

Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

Posted on Jul 31, 2009


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Dryer does not heat. Check continuity on sensors all read good

Have you checked your heating element. Chances are if your dryer is ten years old or older the wire element has an open and cannot carry current and heat up.

Aug 21, 2015 | Dryers

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I have kitchenaid dryer, #KEYS677EQ0, no heat. Have replaced heat element, & checked all the thermostats. I have power on the thermostat side of the element, but none on the motor side. Motor or timer

1) Have you checked to makes sure all of the connections for the heating element are correct and plugged in?
2) Have you checked to make sure any and all fuses (if any) are good?
3) Have you cleaned the interior of the dryer?
4) Have you opened the dryer up and turned it on to check to see if the heating coil is heating or not?

If you haven't done these go back and do so.

Jun 07, 2015 | KitchenAid Dryers

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Thermostats light comes on but there is no heat in the oven

Actually, the thermostat turns the light OFF, as in reaching the desired temperature. The light indicates that power is being applied to the heating element. If the element is blown, the light will come on, but no circuit is completed to generate heat. (the light is 120 vac on one leg of the 220 vac element) Unplug the unit, remove the back panel, locate the element connection and disconnect ONE. With a multimeter set to register ohms (resistance) measure across the element leads (not the wires, the actual connectors of the element itself). If this reading is infinite? you have a blown element and it needs to be replaced.

Mar 20, 2015 | Ovens

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My Kenmore 400 turns on, tumbles but does not heat up. What could be the problem

I am assuming this is an electric only (not gas) dryer, as I cannot find any tech data on your specific model. This is a general troubleshooting guide for heat issues with electric dryers, going from the most common to least common solutions:

**Standard disclaimer--voltages in a dryer (or any AC connected appliance) are high enough to kill you. If you don't know what you are doing, or have any difficulty understanding what I am saying....STOP and call a professional.

With that being said....

1. Test the power supply feeding the dryer and make sure that both 120 volt legs are getting power in reference to the neutral wire. Check between them (red wire to black wire) and check for 240 volt power. A bad breaker or partially failed 240 volt circuit may still provide power for the motor (which only uses one 120 volt leg) but not the heating element, which uses both 120 volt legs to make 240 volts for the heating element. Be sure to check both the receptacle and the terminals where the cord attaches to the dryer.

2. With the dryer unplugged, and the heating element disconnected, check for continuity between the heating element terminals. You may also be able to visualize the heating element coils if you remove it from the dryer. Most elements are held in place by one small sheet metal type screw, in case you need to remove it.

3. Check for continuity on the thermostat and thermal cutoff switch on the dryer. These parts usually are about 1.5" across and are screwed into the metal housing for the heating element. When the dryer is cool, both of these parts should have continuity. Remember to remove the wires from at least one of the terminals before checking continuity. These parts may look similar. If you have a defective one, google the part number stamped into the side of the part to determine which one is which. They are NOT interchangeable.

4. If all of this checks out ok, you will need to check for power coming from the timer to the heating assembly with the power on. The thermostat, thermal cutoff and heating element are typically wired in series. The two wires coming from the timer area down to the heater assembly should have 240 volts between them when the dryer is powered on and in a heating cycle. Once again BE CAREFUL IF YOU DECIDE TO DO THIS. IF IN DOUBT, READ THE WARNING ABOVE.

Your dryer may also have a switch to control the heat intensity, independent of the timer. If it does, check that as well.

Good luck, and I hope this helps!

Feb 21, 2012 | Kenmore 400 6942 Dryer

1 Answer


The indicator lights operate on 120 volts whereas the elements operate on 220 volts.
Using an electrical test meter go between the two hot legs and see if you are getting 220 volts. If not you have an open or non completed circuit.
Do not test from one leg to ground as you will probably read 120 volts for each leg. By reading across both legs you should get 220 volts.

May 03, 2011 | Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

Will not shut off will not heat

check for 240 volts if its electrically heated,if you lose one leg of power or 120 volts on the timer side it wont turn the timer to shut off and only 120 volts wont operate the 240 volt heating element

Nov 16, 2010 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

No heat from element

check your power supply there should be two 120 volt lines that will make 240
on your power cord wich is flat you measure from line 1(black) to neutral 2 (white) =120 and 2(white) to 3(red)=120
and from 1(black) to 3(red) =240 volts ac
if you don't have this readings correct-
check your breaker
it is a double breakerthat cuts both power lines, but sometimes only one side trips

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Whirlpool Dryer not heating

The motor has to be running for voltage to exit the motor going to the heater. With the back off the dryer and the motor running you should read 220 volts at the heater if all safetys and thermostats are good.
There is a thermal cut out relay on the heat canister. It must read continuity also.
Remember you must remove at least one wire from each component being tested to get a true open or closed reading. If a wire is left connected you get a false reading.
The heating element could be broken and part of the heater wire touching the canister. This would cause a continuity reading and still no heat.
Finally, yes,the centrifugal switch in the motor could be bad and not sending power to the heater on the red wire.

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Need help bad!!!!

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MY drier heating element shows 9 ohms continuity, it also shows 120 volts into and out of it when the drier is running. But the heating element wont heat up?

Have you checked the voltage at the outlet? You're supposed to read 220-240 VAC at the heating element. Your dryer heating circuits require at least 220 VAC to work. The motor, however, only uses 120 VAC. That's why your dryer may be running, but the heating circuits aren't heating. I would go back and check your outlet. You may be missing one leg of the 220 service, or have a loose, burned, or broken wire in the plug or terminal block (on the back of the dryer). Let me know what you find. I hope this helps you.

Oct 17, 2008 | Whirlpool Dryers

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